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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello , am new to this site, and am hoping to get so input into a tidal pool build project I am starting. Tank is 52 inches long, 24 inches wide, and 8 inches deep. Have had marine tanks in the past and they did well, so not totally new to marine aquarium but mostly fresh water currently. Would like advice on protein skimmer for the main tank, will have a high tide capacity of 30 gallons with low tide capacity of 20 gallons, also any idea for wave maker that would not be to forceful for tank that size.
 

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Is it 8 inches deep including the overflow? Is it a stand pipe overflow or boxed? At that hight you may need to use lock line with a flow deflector to angle the flow. Or simply undershoot the pumps you use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is it 8 inches deep including the overflow? Is it a stand pipe overflow or boxed? At that hight you may need to use lock line with a flow deflector to angle the flow. Or simply undershoot the pumps you use.
Hey goodmorning from rainy Florida. Thanks for responding to thread. I know a pic is worth a 1000 words, but having a few camera issues I working thru, but will post pics and diagrams for my plans, hopefully give a better idea of where i want to go with this project.

The tank is in the planning stages right now, just gathering all the "stuff" I think I will need. That said, you know the tank dimensions from my initial post. This tank is actually a .5 inch thick acrylic food display case from a retailer. Is divided into 4 equally sized compartment or bins, all of which are water tight. The tank tapers from 14 inches high inthe back down to 8 inches in the front, that is what determines the max depth of the tank.

My plan is to use one on the water tight compartments as the holding tank for water during low tide in the main tank, which will measure 39" long x 24" wide x + or - 8" high(deep). The center dividing wall between the compartment will be removed.

Filters will include a small HOB for the holding tank , during main tank low tide. The main tank will have a larger HOB and a Marineland 360 external canister filter, with its intake line and outflow lines close to the rocky substrate to help keep sediment under rocks to a minimum.

Tide level changes will be controlled by low volume fountain pumps of programable timers to allow tide changes to take about 1 to 2 hours to complete as far as water level changes about ever 10 hours.

Still undecided about protein skimmers, and scrubbers, but definately will use a wave maker of some sort , especiallly during main tank low tide, probably more of a surge than wave.

Sorry , no pics for you to reference but will be. So any advice or ideas welcome. Also any questions also welcomed, also I welcome constructive critisisim .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is it 8 inches deep including the overflow? Is it a stand pipe overflow or boxed? At that hight you may need to use lock line with a flow deflector to angle the flow. Or simply undershoot the pumps you use.
Hey goodmorning from rainy Florida. Thanks for responding to thread. I know a pic is worth a 1000 words, but having a few camera issues I working thru, but will post pics and diagrams for my plans, hopefully give a better idea of where i want to go with this project.

The tank is in the planning stages right now, just gathering all the "stuff" I think I will need. That said, you know the tank dimensions from my initial post. This tank is actually a .5 inch thick acrylic food display case from a retailer. Is divided into 4 equally sized compartment or bins, all of which are water tight. The tank tapers from 14 inches high inthe back down to 8 inches in the front, that is what determines the max depth of the tank.

My plan is to use one on the water tight compartments as the holding tank for water during low tide in the main tank, which will measure 39" long x 24" wide x + or - 8" high(deep). The center dividing wall between the compartment will be removed.

Filters will include a small HOB for the holding tank , during main tank low tide. The main tank will have a larger HOB and a Marineland 360 external canister filter, with its intake line and outflow lines close to the rocky substrate to help keep sediment under rocks to a minimum.

Tide level changes will be controlled by low volume fountain pumps of programable timers to allow tide changes to take about 1 to 2 hours to complete as far as water level changes about ever 10 hours.

Still undecided about protein skimmers, and scrubbers, but definately will use a wave maker of some sort , especiallly during main tank low tide, probably more of a surge than wave.

Sorry , no pics for you to reference but will be. So any advice or ideas welcome. Also any questions also welcomed, also I welcome constructive critisisim .
 

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heres a diagram I drew of the tank(i'm wayhilcs grandson)

the pic may not work, if it doesn't ill try and fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A picture would really help visualize this project. I think I am wrapping my head around it though. As far as Skimmers go are you going with an in sump model?
Thanks for interest in project welcome sny advice you can offer. Will try to get actual pics of tank posted along with short narrative to help out.

Want to use skimmer in main tank , so need one to set totally inside of it, or hangs on back luke typical H O B filter. Trying to avoid and external hook up luke seperate sump areas and the like. So I guess I need a skimmer that will function properly in a tank with max depth of 8 inches and probably min water depth of 5 to 6 inches during low tide. Main tank will be approx 39 inches long, 24 inches wide and z water depth that ranges from 5 inches at low tide to nax of 8 at high tide. Hope that help a little. Will work on getting pics posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Tidal tank build

Posting a few pics, kinda boring right now. Will try to explain what they represent. Like I said i am a DIYer. This actually a "food bin" from large box store, used for candy and pastry sales.

Top pic= corner angle view,small yellow tag show bin dividing walls between each compartment. Two of these will be removed to make the main tank with foot print of 39" long x 24 " wide, one will be left in place to provide a 13" long x24" wide x8" high holding tank for water pumped from main tank during main tank low tide.

Next pic=end view showing how tank taper from about 14.5 " at back to about 8" at front

Next pic=top view , peach/brown stickies are on the lids in the open position, the 3 bright green stickies shows where the main tank will be, the single orange sticky is where the holding "tank" will be

The remaining pics just show the dimensions I have to work with.

The idea is to have a HOB filter and a magnum 360 external canister service the main tank, along with a protein skimmer(either a sump type or HOB type). Hope to incorporate a wave maker/surge pump in main tank also. Will probably use HOB for holding tank filtration as it will only be holding approx 8-10 gallons of water for the 10-12 hours between tide changes. I think I can use very small fountain pumps on programmable timers so tide changes will take about 1.5 to 2 hours to complete.

So that's the plan, any and all suggestions, and /or possible problem area recognition would be appreciated.
 

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If it were me I might just drill one side to one of the compartments bottoms or backs for a bulk head this way you can have a good sized sump to hold more water, evaporation will be a nuisance with so much surface area and movment. Then I would just put teeth in that end wall that would allow the water to flow over to the bulk head side at the desired water level. I would then place the sumps return pump output line put at the desired low point so that when you're timer goes off on it, the pump line will back siphon into the sump until the timer kicks back on. Simpler is often more efficient. Just an idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If it were me I might just drill one side to one of the compartments bottoms or backs for a bulk head this way you can have a good sized sump to hold more water, evaporation will be a nuisance with so much surface area and movment. Then I would just put teeth in that end wall that would allow the water to flow over to the bulk head side at the desired water level. I would then place the sumps return pump output line put at the desired low point so that when you're timer goes off on it, the pump line will back siphon into the sump until the timer kicks back on. Simpler is often more efficient. Just an idea.
Not sure I follow you, but if simpler all for that. How would I allow for difference in water levels for low and high tide if no holding area for water pumped from main tank. Or am I missing something. Would a rough sketch be way to much to request.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Tidal pool build

I just saw that you wanted three different zones in this setup, this might make things a little more involving.
Sorry , I didn't see this post, before answering the one discussing you ideas, for which I thank just not sure Ii understand it yet.

Actually the diagram, posted by my grandson was one we discussed in the event I wanted to house any possible aggressive grabs., to keep them from eating other pool inhabitants

The tank will really only have two separate compartments, a main tank for the live rock and the tidal pool animals. The second smaller tank is simple for the holding of water pumped from the main tank to simulate low tide and then returned to the main tank to simulate high tide.

Both tanks will of course be filtered and water quality maintained to assure overall water quality thru-out.

I hope this clears up any misconception I may have caused with my earlier posts or the diagram. Would appreciate continued input and maybe some help in understanding your earlier suggestions.
 

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Well this is a very simplified idea of what I am thinking about, the output of the return when placed at the desired water level would back siphon the water back into the sump via gravity, then when the timer comes back on the tide pool would fill again until it hit the teeth of the baffle and overflowed back through the plumbing into the sump chamber again. Obviously you would want a grate of some sort to stop any critters from going into the return line but that is easy enough.

Obviously you could add more return line into the return pump for better circulation but they would all have to be at the same water level to work.

Did I mention this was done rather fast, and I am not know for my computer fines, sorry about that.

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well this is a very simplified idea of what I am thinking about, the output of the return when placed at the desired water level would back siphon the water back into the sump via gravity, then when the timer comes back on the tide pool would fill again until it hit the teeth of the baffle and overflowed back through the plumbing into the sump chamber again. Obviously you would want a grate of some sort to stop any critters from going into the return line but that is easy enough.

Obviously you could add more return line into the return pump for better circulation but they would all have to be at the same water level to work.

Did I mention this was done rather fast, and I am not know for my computer fines, sorry about that.

Thanks for quick response and the diagrams now I follow,your idea very well. I used a similar design on my previous salt tank for which used a self made wet/dry trickle tower er in a seperate sump tank, and it worked great. Was very successful with corals, sponges abd fish.


I was wanting to contain all water in a single but seperate d tank on the same level. Thats why was going to devote a single compartment (water tight) to collect,,hold , and then redistribute water between tide level changes

Still undecided, going on working vacation this week so no actual hands or fabrication will start for about 3 weekd.hopefully that will be enough time to play out in my head at least the different options.


I actually have two of these tanks at my disposal even playing with iDea of bonding them together almost double the volume and footprint.

Your idea and concept a straight forward and simple to assemble, just right now leaning toward plan with out sump area uner the main tank. You have given me a lot to consider and ponder thank
 

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What about 8 or so led strips that will change for sunrise and sunset then moonlights for nighttime
 
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