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Well i am sending pictures the first picture is of the tank 1 month after setup. The second picture is 2 months after setup (now).

You will see in the first picture the large green algee problem. I have done about 70 gal of water changes in small amounts over the past month.

Now in the second picture you will notice a red something maybe algee problem maybe not a problem I don't know. it is really a pretty color, but I don't know about it. very low on the glass has the red color, and also on the sand. There is also some on the live rock, but not very much on the rocks.

Water Quality just tested

PH 8.0
Nitrites 0
Amonia .25
Nitrates 20

Now this is interesting to me I asked my LFS they said that I am doing water changes to often. I didn't ask about the red color. They said that is why the amonia is there and why the nitrates are not brakeing down. I don't know about that but well what do you think

I was doing about 8 gal 3 times / week for that month in a 90 gal tank.



1. about the red color
2. about doing to maywater changes
3. do I stay on the same water changing schedual do I cut back?
 

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I would plan on large water changes once a week. Like 50% if possible. I'd look into getting a stream pump instead of the MJ's. I used to preach Tunze, still do and then Seio, however things have changed. I now am really excited to say that Hydor makes a new pump ready to go out of the box for less then $50. It is called the Koralia. It is a stream pump that includes magnet mounts. The Tunze nanostreams have been getting some seriously good reviews, a decent price but availability sucks. There is a huge waiting list as they are that nice. At this point the Hydor units look a little better then the Seio's as the Seio's have a huge mount. MJ's don't make good flow in a tank. It is to direct. stream, or prop, pumps have a huge outlet and even though they can move thousands of gallons an hour, they do it gently. I'm curreently having a similar problem. I run almost 3,400gph through my 75g, but as my corals have begun outgrowing the tank they block the flow. Their branches are getting in the way and I'm getting some patches of algae at the bases of each coral.

Things that will help. A phosban reactor or 2. Stop feeding the tank all together. Water changes. A good skimmer. Disposable amounts of carbon. Carbon is exhausted quickly but could be used to help quickly rid the system of unwanted nutrients. Run a phosban reactor with some ROWAphos in it and another reactor with some carbon in it and a bag of Purigen. Pull the carbon reactor out every 3 days and toss the carbon out and replace it. The Purigen is good for about a month and then can be recharged and reused. A heavier skimmer or your skimmer run "wet" will also help.
 

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Water changes alone wont do it. If you leave any cyano in the tank it will come back. While doing water changes get a few power heads to get circulation in the tank. I wouldnt recommend that big of one do them over a week. You could stress you tank by doing such a large water change.
 

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Yourself.





Never listen to any of us. Read the advice given and pick what works best for you and your tank. If you can only mix 20g at a time then 20g it is. If doing 10g once a month doe snot fix the problem increase it a bit. If doing a sudden 40g WC your corals or fish look stressed cut back a little. The goal here is to rid your tank of excess nutrients or phosphates.

Again I'll say, increase yor flow to 30 times the water volume of the tank, add a Phosban reactor (they really are dirt cheap and since this is a recurring problem it will only help), water changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well I just ordered a seio 2600 and I hope it comes in soon, but in the mean time I put my rio 2500 in the tank that I was using to help me pump water out and in for my water changes. it is moving a ton more water I hope it takes care of the problem. I have a hair algee problem any recommendations?

Roger
 

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Folks:

I am asking this for my own edification.

I understand that in the "salt water world" lighting is as important if not more important than filtration.

I do not understand why Roger is experiencing this problem with a wet/dry filtration system.

In my freshwater system the return water to the tank generates significant flow in the tank.

This is just a question but would not a pump with a larger output fix this problem assuming the biological and mechanical filtration is adequate?

TR
 

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Jones in a 90g tank I'd be pressing for about 3,000-3,500GPH or more for flow. Flow is very important in saltie tanks. A wet/dry for a 90g tank would not work if hooked up to a pump that could push 5,000GPH (giving extra for head losses). Also wet/dry filters can become a source of bane for saltie keepers if it is not regularly maintained. that's why you'll here more and more keepers referring to a sump (a place to add a skimmer out of sight) and a refugium (a place to grow unwanted algaes and such so as to use upt the nutrients). A sump or wet/dry is normally recommended to have a flow between 5-10 times the water volume whereas the tank should have 30-40 times turnover rate.
 

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caferacermike said:
Jones in a 90g tank I'd be pressing for about 3,000-3,500GPH or more for flow. Flow is very important in saltie tanks. A wet/dry for a 90g tank would not work if hooked up to a pump that could push 5,000GPH (giving extra for head losses). Also wet/dry filters can become a source of bane for saltie keepers if it is not regularly maintained. that's why you'll here more and more keepers referring to a sump (a place to add a skimmer out of sight) and a refugium (a place to grow unwanted algaes and such so as to use upt the nutrients). A sump or wet/dry is normally recommended to have a flow between 5-10 times the water volume whereas the tank should have 30-40 times turnover rate.
I believe that I understand.

In the "saltwater world" the flow required in the tank is so great that if the flow were returned through the sump the filtration would not be effective.

TR
 
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