[FishyFishy89]

I'm doing my window shopping so I know in advanced what, how much and where I'm going to buy what I need for my canister filter. I'm a bit stuck on the pumps. I'm surfing through Petco/PetsMart's website for their pumps(i really should go to stores) and they all appear to only have 1 entrance or exit.

Here's some examples:
Hydor Seltz Aquarium Water Pump at PETCO
AquaClear Powerheads and Accessories from Hagen - Water Pumps - Fish - PetSmart
Marineland® Maxi-Jet® 1200 Water Pump and Power Head - Water Pumps - Fish - PetSmart

This one is the only one that appears to have 2 entrance/exits. But yikes, if I'm gonna pay that much I might as well BUY a new canister filter.
EHEIM Universal Hobby Pumps - Water Pumps - Fish - PetSmart

 

[JDM]

I had started a post earlier but never got it up in the other thread, here it is now:

I hate to be a killjoy but I watched the video and see a few flaws in the design and savings. A canister for a 75 gallon should be able to be had for around $100 and all the work you will go through to save maybe $20 just isn't worth it, in my estimation. I have looked at pumps for other purposes and they are not cheap.

Any canister that I have seen in my research pumps water into an open sump area of the canister then draws it up through the media. I wondered where the open inflow area would be when he was starting to explain it until he said in the top and out the bottom. I am not certain why the in the bottom and out the top is important but I assume that it may be unless everyone who makes these just happens to do it the same way.

If yours is going to be a 2' tall then the narrowness of the tube is not likely a factor. In a long filter the first point of water inflow to the media will plug up quicker with a 4" cross section than with a wider cross section, it spreads the crap over a larger area reducing the frequency of cleaning.

That was where I got to so the long and short is that I think that you would be better served to just buy a decent quality canister. Sometimes DIY is not a bargain and is more just because you can or because you really like to tinker. I'd love to setup a cool sump/refugium but I know it is not cheap nor my best option for my tank size, so I skipped it for another time.

Jeff.

 

[FishyFishy89]

Well, I found the exact pump he was using in that video. Its only $60 and it comes with FREE shipping! WOOT!
Aquarium Water Pumps: Supreme Classic Mag Drive Pump

I'm not really understanding what you mean by "all the work". He made it pretty simple. Drill here, insert bulk head here and here, silicone here, cement here, add everything and hook it up. I don't see where you concluded that this DIY project would cost $100. He generously rounded up his costs and it came out to $15. I didn't do pricing in my area, but it can't be much different.

If yours is going to be a 2' tall then the narrowness of the tube is not likely a factor. In a long filter the first point of water inflow to the media will plug up quicker with a 4" cross section than with a wider cross section, it spreads the crap over a larger area reducing the frequency of cleaning.

I am REALLY confused by this. Are you saying I can make a shorter but "fatter" canister? What do you mean by "plug up"? Just confused by the whole quoted statement really.

 

[jaysee]

I had started a post earlier but never got it up in the other thread, here it is now:

I hate to be a killjoy but I watched the video and see a few flaws in the design and savings. A canister for a 75 gallon should be able to be had for around $100 and all the work you will go through to save maybe $20 just isn't worth it, in my estimation. I have looked at pumps for other purposes and they are not cheap.

Any canister that I have seen in my research pumps water into an open sump area of the canister then draws it up through the media. I wondered where the open inflow area would be when he was starting to explain it until he said in the top and out the bottom. I am not certain why the in the bottom and out the top is important but I assume that it may be unless everyone who makes these just happens to do it the same way.

If yours is going to be a 2' tall then the narrowness of the tube is not likely a factor. In a long filter the first point of water inflow to the media will plug up quicker with a 4" cross section than with a wider cross section, it spreads the crap over a larger area reducing the frequency of cleaning.

That was where I got to so the long and short is that I think that you would be better served to just buy a decent quality canister. Sometimes DIY is not a bargain and is more just because you can or because you really like to tinker. I'd love to setup a cool sump/refugium but I know it is not cheap nor my best option for my tank size, so I skipped it for another time.

Jeff.

I completely agree.

 

[FishyFishy89]

Please do explain! I'm confused and have no idea how both of you are seeing this DIY project is expensive or not worth "all the work"?

 

[FishyFishy89]

And honestly, anything I see rated for my tank is well over $100.

 

[JDM]

Well, I found the exact pump he was using in that video. Its only $60 and it comes with FREE shipping! WOOT!
Aquarium Water Pumps: Supreme Classic Mag Drive Pump

I'm not really understanding what you mean by "all the work". He made it pretty simple. Drill here, insert bulk head here and here, silicone here, cement here, add everything and hook it up. I don't see where you concluded that this DIY project would cost $100. He generously rounded up his costs and it came out to $15. I didn't do pricing in my area, but it can't be much different.


I am REALLY confused by this. Are you saying I can make a shorter but "fatter" canister? What do you mean by "plug up"? Just confused by the whole quoted statement really.

My apologies for any confusion, not my intent.

Also, I'm not really trying to talk you out of the project... well, maybe I am... I just get rambling on and I end up touching on more points than I intended when I started. My justification or intent with something like this would be different that yours and this is based on what my goals might be and perhaps I'm trying to install mine onto you. Type "A" problem I am told.:roll:

All the work involves more than drilling a few holes and glueing and connecting. I do my own plumbing with everything from copper to plastic, solder to press fit.... I consider myself good at it but things still leak the odd time. I am willing to do it as the cost savings over the years have been thousands of dollars and i enjoy the work. Given that experience I would not choose to do a DIY filter over a tested and proven manufactured product if the cost was going to be anywhere near similar.

I mentioned that a canister might cost $100 and the $20 savings wasn't likely worth it, I pegged all up cost at $80, that may not have been clear. So the pump is $60 (is that going to be a good enough pump as the filter starts to fill with particles? i dont know) the estimate for parts is $15... We're at a $5 discrepancy and I am sure there will be something to make up that $5 before you are done, there ALWAYS is. I didn't see if he used check valves or quick disconnects and if they were included in the estimate, i highly doubt it. You would want them to make servicing easier and quicker and a decent canister comes with this setup already.

The short fatter perhaps is irrelevant in your case so you can ignore that argument if you want.... but ill clarify anyway.

short fatter would allow a greater cross section so you spread the crud buildup over a larger area which makes it longer before the water flow gets restricted or just longer between needing to clean it. Compare it to a narrow stream vs a wide stream, which is easier to block up with the same amount of material? If you are only going with 2', I don't think that fatter is worth the extra the parts would cost. His example of a near 4' long filter is just not going to be efficient as it will fill with crud faster. If you look at filter designs, that's generally what you see, the larger the capacity the wider the canister... taller too but there is a proportional formula that works better.

Did I help or make it worse?

Jeff.

 

[FishyFishy89]

You did help to clear up the confusion. I'm not really find any canister filters rated for my tank even remotely close to the estimate of my DIY project. Unless I find something I'll be stuck with this grinder

 

[JDM]

I won't buy on ebay, or at least never have, but I can find canisters for a 75 for under $60. I don't know the quality so I won't link it here as a suggestion, Jaysee might have one though, he seems to be able to find canister deals. I bought my 50 gallon unit at the LFS for $100 and realize that I paid a premium. It was a rushed purchase decision but I am satisfied with it.

Jeff.

 

[JDM]

You did help to clear up the confusion. I'm not really find any canister filters rated for my tank even remotely close to the estimate of my DIY project. Unless I find something I'll be stuck with this grinder

I know, I'd just hate to see you have a less than pleasant experience with this particular DIY project as it can cost you twice if it doesn't work as you think it might.

I'll watch the entire video if I can tomorrow and see what else he is up to. I skipped through in order to see the various steps but didn't see what all he included in his estimate. There's just no way that everything you need other than the pump is going to be $15. I know prices up here in Canada might be a bit higher but not that much.

What canisters did you look at and price?

Did you look at the marineland spare parts listing? I see an impeller assembly for $10, don't know if it is specifically for yours but that is you cheapest fix if that is what is grinding... And it is what it sounds like.

Jeff

 

[FishyFishy89]

I was mostly looking at new canisters, getting ready to shoot over to craigslist. I've seen quite a bit of questionable stuff happening on ebay that it makes craigslist look innocent

If all goes down hill, there's still the Aqua Clear rated for 110 gallons at $90-ish
Hagen Aqua Clear Power Filter 110 Gallons - Filters - Fish - PetSmart

 

[FishyFishy89]

Oh I doubt this will still be up next weekend! *tear*
Marineland canister C360 filter

 

[JDM]

...

Did you look at the marineland spare parts listing? I see an impeller assembly for $10, don't know if it is specifically for yours but that is you cheapest fix if that is what is grinding... And it is what it sounds like.

Jeff

I edited my post, you may have missed this mentioned option.

Jeff

 

[FishyFishy89]

Honestly, if the 1st one wore out that fast, I'd rather not replace it for another. Thanks tho!

 

[JDM]

Oh I doubt this will still be up next weekend! *tear*
Marineland canister C360 filter

Oooooo. I have the marineland C220, next size down, it is a really nice easy and quiet unit.

Jeff.

 

[jaysee]

I won't buy on ebay, or at least never have, but I can find canisters for a 75 for under $60. I don't know the quality so I won't link it here as a suggestion, Jaysee might have one though, he seems to be able to find canister deals. I bought my 50 gallon unit at the LFS for $100 and realize that I paid a premium. It was a rushed purchase decision but I am satisfied with it.

Jeff.

The white canisters on eBay are the sunsuns, of which I have 4. I like them very much, as does everyone I know that's gotten one. The main sellers there provide excellent customer service, in my experience.

The sunsuns are copies of the marineland filters. As I understand it, the company that manufactures used to, and may still, manufacture the marineland filters.

 

[FishyFishy89]

The white canisters on eBay are the sunsuns, of which I have 4. I like them very much, as does everyone I know that's gotten one. The main sellers there provide excellent customer service, in my experience.

The sunsuns are copies of the marineland filters. As I understand it, the company that manufactures used to, and may still, manufacture the marineland filters.

I'm still looking towards the SunSuns actually.
I'm doing intense research on them and everyone loves them. Once in a blue you come across a random person who had some minor issues, like leaking, difficult priming, complaining about the directions(which after all the video watching I believe I have an idea on how it's supposed to go together). But I would imagine if you contacted the seller they'd be happy to exchange for another one(if defective) considering all the excellent reviews of the canister.

For me, the 3 trays are perfect, I have my seeded sponges and ceramics for 2 of the trays and I can use the bioballs that comes with it. The issue is just deciding which media will go where.

 

[JDM]

I'm still looking towards the SunSuns actually.
I'm doing intense research on them and everyone loves them. Once in a blue you come across a random person who had some minor issues, like leaking, difficult priming, complaining about the directions(which after all the video watching I believe I have an idea on how it's supposed to go together). But I would imagine if you contacted the seller they'd be happy to exchange for another one(if defective) considering all the excellent reviews of the canister.

For me, the 3 trays are perfect, I have my seeded sponges and ceramics for 2 of the trays and I can use the bioballs that comes with it. The issue is just deciding which media will go where.

They look identical to the marineland units and if the quality is similar, you won't be disappointed. The quick disconnect works great, it's quiet and I haven't needed to open mine up in two months, the flow is very good.

One bit of advice, when you first hook it up and run it for a while, the hoses may soften which could introduce a very slow leak around the compression fittings on the lid. Just be sure to give all fittings a check and snug after everything is up to temperature. For me, hand tight was fine.

I threw out the bio balls, waste of time those. The ceramics are going next... almost as much of a waste but they come with it. I am adding four graduated layers of foam and floss with a final "polisher" instead... next time I need to open it up anyway, might be another month.

Oh, skip the UV if it's an option, it's really just one more point of failure, it's unnecessary and mostly irrelevant.

Jeff.

 

[FishyFishy89]

I thought the quick disconnect feature was really neafty and certainly would prove handy when needing to do any maintenance.

Does anyone know how powerful the spray bar is? I have some floaters that I wouldn't mind keeping on the left side of the tank

 

[jaysee]

I'm still looking towards the SunSuns actually.
I'm doing intense research on them and everyone loves them. Once in a blue you come across a random person who had some minor issues, like leaking, difficult priming, complaining about the directions(which after all the video watching I believe I have an idea on how it's supposed to go together). But I would imagine if you contacted the seller they'd be happy to exchange for another one(if defective) considering all the excellent reviews of the canister.

For me, the 3 trays are perfect, I have my seeded sponges and ceramics for 2 of the trays and I can use the bioballs that comes with it. The issue is just deciding which media will go where.

There are similar complaints about top shelf products as well. I received one that leaked - seller sent me a new one and told me to keep the old one, which is nice because now I have some spare parts.

Every one of my filters are set up the same way - I have fluval ceramic prefilters in the first tray - they are supposed to catch large particles without restricting the water flow. In my experience they work very well. The next tray contains the foam mechanical media, ten the rest is filled with biomax. A lot of people here really look down on ceramic biomedias, but they are widely used and recommended on every other forum I've seen.