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Discussion Starter #1
Starting new tank can't get ph to stablize. Get it to 8.2 by morning back down in the 70's. Anyone else have this is. Tank is 40g salt is on the high side by in the red-ok. Someone said use an aerator???
 

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Take lids off the tank. You should be using a skimmer already in there, so that aerates your water. But with lids off the gas exchange is better. Yiu can point your powerheads alittle more towards the surface to break up the water surface. And, yiur PH is always going to go down whn the lights are off, and will go back up when the lights are on. Most run a sump, with its lights on either 24-7 or opposite the DT lights to keep the Ph more stable. If none of this helps, waht is your ALk, (DKh) and MAG?
Also, what do you mean by your salt is reading high in the red? I didn't get that one. ??
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response by the red , one my hydrometer 1.026 is the high point and is in red sorry for confusion. Dont have a lid yet they had to order it and the light which will be T5. Dont know the other levels will be going to lfs tomorrow after work. Just talked to someone near me with 200g and said the lfs store i deal with is great. So.......
 

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Once you have those other parameters would be easier to figure out what the dealio is. The alkalinity is the key one with the pH I believe. Helps keep the pH stable so could be low.
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Ok will fill u in after we get back. Thanks again
If it is the alklinity how do fix that?
Baking soda. In small amounts.


Get the alk up to 9 degrees and see how it works. Just a teasponn or so. Then retest later.


my .02
 

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Oh yea and fwiw.

PH rises with lights on as algae consumes and loweres CO2. Then drops again with lights off.

Alk IME will limit that nightly drop but one things to consider:


It is much better to have algae raising the pH to high levels when the lights are on then to have no algae and the pH is constantly low. :lol:


my .02
 

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Refresh my memory here. What device takes an ALK reading at Degrees?
The Api gh and kh test kits are calibrated so that each drop is 1 degree.
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Umm so, no one who knows readings would know that, becaues everyone goes off the following:
dKH
meq/l
CaCO3
Never in 20 years have I heard it called out in degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok so they tested mine at 27 drops. Wow how do i fix that. She used the api. And the chart only went to 12
 

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Umm so, no one who knows readings would know that, becaues everyone goes off the following:
dKH
meq/l
CaCO3
Never in 20 years have I heard it called out in degrees.
Just emphasizing the d in dkh. Was afraid kh would be taken and the more general term reflecting the other measures.

Both API carbonate test kit (KH), and general hardness (GH) are calibrated to that each drop is a degree or 1 dkh or 1 gh.

Sorry for the confusion.

my .02
 

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Ok so they tested mine at 27 drops. Wow how do i fix that. She used the api. And the chart only went to 12

From the api kh and gh instructions:

api kh instructions said:
The test is completed when the water in the test
tube, after having been shaken, turns from blue to

yellow
api gh instructions said:
The test is completed when the water in the test
tube, after having been shaken, turns from orange

to green
so did the test start blue and turn yellow (kh) or start orange and turn green (gh).

27 Degrees GH IME is much more common but 27 dKH is possible but very uncommon.

If GH it would be helpful to measure KH.

If DKH is 27 and there is a low pH it would indicate very high co2 levels and/or a very active nitrogen cycle that has not completed.

At any rate regardless of what is going on thriving live plants to suck out the ammonia/nitrate/phosphates/carbon dioxide and return fish food and oxygen would help.

Finally, and a big consideration is that DKH, PH are functions of carbon dioxide in the system. Taking a jar of water to the LFS can and probably will result in different values then if you did the test immediately from your tank.

And will result in different values during the day due to plant action on carbon dioxide.

What I do is test just before lights out. If that pH is high then the system IMHO is processing the co2 nicely.



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Discussion Starter #17
Yes,, it was the KH test. So basically it is cycling? Will it hurt live rock or would they help? I am going to buy the kh and gh kit tonite prob
 

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Yes,, it was the KH test. So basically it is cycling? Will it hurt live rock or would they help? I am going to buy the kh and gh kit tonite prob

my mistake and I'm sorry. GH is only useful for freshwater tanks and your's is salt. Ignore the gh comments here


In salt you do the diy two part. Reasearch dr. randy holmes-farley improved diy two part.

I think if you just let it be alk will come down on it's own. Most tank have to add carbonate because corraling algae and hard corals consume it along with calcium and magnesium as well.


I could be still cycling and I do still feel the addition of macro algae will help.


my .02
 
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