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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all.
I've started using a canister filter, and am having difficulty determining the best orientation for the spraybar.
I currently have it pointing down the length of the tank and angled slightly upward, but it seems to be creating quite the current.
I had it pointing at the end wall, but that didn't seem to give me the effect I wanted either.
If I angled it upward it caused a real ripple at surface and was quite loud.
If I angled it downward it blew all the plants at that end of the tank over.

So I have a couple of questions
1) How do you have your spraybar oriented?
2) How have your baffled or reduced the flow from the spraybar?
3) Any tips or tricks relating to canisters in general?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have an Eheim Classic 350 canister filter.
I did drill the holes out to make them larger, I didn't add any additional ones though.

I was thinking about it and I think I have a plan.
I cut the piece of soft tubing that connects the spraybar with the hooked riser tube kind of short, so I'm going to head to the LFS and get a longer piece.
This should allow me to place the bar deeper in the tank so that I can aim it back against the short wall and angle it upward without the massive roil at the surface.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The Rasbora I've added to the tank definitely seem to enjoy the current, but i worry about the floating plants I've got in there.
Right now all of the floaters are clumped up in the center of the tank, caught on an inflorescence from one of the Amazon Swords, without the sword they all rotate around the top of the tank.
When I had the spraybar pointed at the side wall and angled down all the plants were stuck at that end of the tank, or again orbited slowly.
I still think that the connector piece is kind of short, so I think I'll swap it for something a bit longer and try pointing the bar at the side of the tank again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So, I extended the soft piece of tubing that connects the spraybar to the riser from around 2" to just over 6".
This let me move the spray bar to a depth of 4" and a little closer to the front corner of the tank.
I've got it pointed at the wall to which it is anchored, and angled slightly upward.
There is still some current so the plants still gyre a bit and end up in the center of the tank, but not as much as before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As requested:


You can see the end of the riser on the upper right, and the clear piece of tubing leading down to the spraybar.



I was thinking about drilling more holes in either the top or opposite side of the spraybar to the original holes, but wasn't sure what that would do.
Has anyone personally tried that, or do we just have anecdotal accounts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What if you went for a "V" shape and drilled the holes 45 degrees apart?
You could aim one set toward the end of the aquarium and one toward the surface, but more out toward the middle.

Or is opposite each other better, with one pointing at the end and up and the other pointing toward the middle of the tank, and down?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Not sure how to explain this to be clear, but I drilled two rows of holes in addition to the one already there. I just made sure that all these holes were only on one half of the tube, and if the initial row of holes is aimed slightly down the wall, the other drilled holes can't be around the tube beyond the surface point. If that makes sense.:-?
So, if we count the initial holes as being at 0 degrees you would have then drilled one set at say 90 degrees and one at 180 degrees, leaving the other half of the circle untouched.
I would surmise you then aimed one set of holes at the wall of the tank, one straight down, and one directly into the center of the tank.

Ches:
It sounds like a trip to Homer's Depot may well be in my future.;-)
 
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