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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all.
I've started using a canister filter, and am having difficulty determining the best orientation for the spraybar.
I currently have it pointing down the length of the tank and angled slightly upward, but it seems to be creating quite the current.
I had it pointing at the end wall, but that didn't seem to give me the effect I wanted either.
If I angled it upward it caused a real ripple at surface and was quite loud.
If I angled it downward it blew all the plants at that end of the tank over.

So I have a couple of questions
1) How do you have your spraybar oriented?
2) How have your baffled or reduced the flow from the spraybar?
3) Any tips or tricks relating to canisters in general?
 

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Do you have a picture of the setup? I run a Fluval 406 canister filter and do not use a spray bar although I do have that option. What canister filter do you have?
 

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More and / or larger holes should reduce the water pressure. Some people use spray bars to increase turbulence and some people use them to reduce turbulence. My filter didn't come with the spray bar option and the current was way too strong in my opinion. I found some DIY spray bar plans on the internet and made my own. The tank is 48" long. I made a 24" long spray bar using PVC pipe and fittings...no glue was necessary as the fittings are snug. I drilled 3/16" holes an inch apart in a straight line along the entire length of the pipe. It runs along the back wall and I have it aimed slightly down. The current is now spread out and not near as strong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have an Eheim Classic 350 canister filter.
I did drill the holes out to make them larger, I didn't add any additional ones though.

I was thinking about it and I think I have a plan.
I cut the piece of soft tubing that connects the spraybar with the hooked riser tube kind of short, so I'm going to head to the LFS and get a longer piece.
This should allow me to place the bar deeper in the tank so that I can aim it back against the short wall and angle it upward without the massive roil at the surface.
 

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I would keep the spraybar close to the surface. Presumably the filter intake is closer to the substrate. And these should be at opposite ends of the tank, always, if the filter hose allows this.

The current depends upon the fish; if quiet fish, then angling the holes against the end wall will cause the water to fall down the wall and across the tank at a reduced rate of flow.

The above placement will create a more complete flow of water through the tank, and in a natural (to the fish) method. Many fish will invariable face into the flow, even a mild one; in my various tanks I see most of the shoaling fish always facing one direction when they are still.

Byron.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The Rasbora I've added to the tank definitely seem to enjoy the current, but i worry about the floating plants I've got in there.
Right now all of the floaters are clumped up in the center of the tank, caught on an inflorescence from one of the Amazon Swords, without the sword they all rotate around the top of the tank.
When I had the spraybar pointed at the side wall and angled down all the plants were stuck at that end of the tank, or again orbited slowly.
I still think that the connector piece is kind of short, so I think I'll swap it for something a bit longer and try pointing the bar at the side of the tank again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So, I extended the soft piece of tubing that connects the spraybar to the riser from around 2" to just over 6".
This let me move the spray bar to a depth of 4" and a little closer to the front corner of the tank.
I've got it pointed at the wall to which it is anchored, and angled slightly upward.
There is still some current so the plants still gyre a bit and end up in the center of the tank, but not as much as before.
 

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Glad you've figured it out! Would you mind taking a picture? I'm sure it'll help me and others visualize the solution you've come up with, and as was mentioned by a PP - this is definitely one of those topics that almost everyone has questions about when they get started with a spraybar. . .

Though you've figured out a way that works for you, I wanted to add in that I've read about people adding holes in opposite sides of the spraybar, too - so that some of the holes are pointed in one direction (at the tank wall or angled upward toward the surface) and some are pointed in the other (into the tank or angled downward at the substrate). More holes = slower flow, and making them run in different directions has worked for some people, though I've never tried it personally. . . more than one way to skin the proverbial cat, neh?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As requested:


You can see the end of the riser on the upper right, and the clear piece of tubing leading down to the spraybar.



I was thinking about drilling more holes in either the top or opposite side of the spraybar to the original holes, but wasn't sure what that would do.
Has anyone personally tried that, or do we just have anecdotal accounts?
 

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Yes, I drilled additional holes in the spraybar of one of my canisters. You obviously have to keep one half solid, being the "top" or water will shoot up into the cover/light which is fine if fully covered but when opening the cover for feedings, etc water will be everywhere.

My aim was to get a slight surface movement, with the main flow down into the tank. To be honest, I'm not sure if this worked or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What if you went for a "V" shape and drilled the holes 45 degrees apart?
You could aim one set toward the end of the aquarium and one toward the surface, but more out toward the middle.

Or is opposite each other better, with one pointing at the end and up and the other pointing toward the middle of the tank, and down?
 

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What if you went for a "V" shape and drilled the holes 45 degrees apart?
You could aim one set toward the end of the aquarium and one toward the surface, but more out toward the middle.

Or is opposite each other better, with one pointing at the end and up and the other pointing toward the middle of the tank, and down?
Not sure how to explain this to be clear, but I drilled two rows of holes in addition to the one already there. I just made sure that all these holes were only on one half of the tube, and if the initial row of holes is aimed slightly down the wall, the other drilled holes can't be around the tube beyond the surface point. If that makes sense.:-?
 

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I think 'better' will really depend on your individual tank, and the creatures you keep. . . I say it can't hurt to try! You can get the right size tubing very inexpensively from Home Depot, though I've never used it, I've read of many users on this forum who have used it exclusively, and it seems to have caused no harm to their fishums. . . so no harm done but a few bucks and a bit of time to experiment and see what works best for you :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Not sure how to explain this to be clear, but I drilled two rows of holes in addition to the one already there. I just made sure that all these holes were only on one half of the tube, and if the initial row of holes is aimed slightly down the wall, the other drilled holes can't be around the tube beyond the surface point. If that makes sense.:-?
So, if we count the initial holes as being at 0 degrees you would have then drilled one set at say 90 degrees and one at 180 degrees, leaving the other half of the circle untouched.
I would surmise you then aimed one set of holes at the wall of the tank, one straight down, and one directly into the center of the tank.

Ches:
It sounds like a trip to Homer's Depot may well be in my future.;-)
 

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So, if we count the initial holes as being at 0 degrees you would have then drilled one set at say 90 degrees and one at 180 degrees, leaving the other half of the circle untouched.
I would surmise you then aimed one set of holes at the wall of the tank, one straight down, and one directly into the center of the tank.

Ches:
It sounds like a trip to Homer's Depot may well be in my future.;-)
Yes, that is close. And this certainly explains the idea, so now we can move forward. I didn't have the third set quite at 180, because I wanted the initial row aimed slightly down the end wall. And the holes I drilled were less in diameter than the initial row.
 
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