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Discussion Starter #1
I have had my 55 gallon freshwater set up for about 4 - 5 years now.

It's mainly been used as a female betta sorority, so it's filled with rock caves, driftwood, and java moss. There were 5 female bettas, 2 dwarf sunset platys, 3 mollies, and a leporinus fasciatus. All have been in this tank for 6months to a year, except the leo - he was added about 3 months ago (never aggressive towards my other fish, and only about 3inches long-had plans to rehome him once he grew, was quarantined before placed in the tank).

I noticed about 2 weeks ago that my leo and my platys were getting ich, so I bought some rid-ich and treated the tank.

4 days ago my molly gave birth to about 30 fry. Most were still born, several were deformed and so I culled them, and the rest are HUGE for molly fry. They seem to be about the size of month old fry.

All fish were alive and well until yesterday. The mother molly was dead as well as one of my female bettas. I did a 25% water change and gravel vac (I was due for my weekly change anyways) and added some aquarium salt (can't think of the exact amount I used, but it was per the directions I have always used in the 5yrs I've had this tank.)

As of this morning ALL of my female bettas were dead and the remaining mollies, platys, and leo are at the bottom of the tank and not really moving.

I can't say that I found anything physically wrong with any of the fish, however one of my females appeared to be literally missing scales from around her face - she was in a breeder net because she didn't look well last night, so I know the other fish weren't munching on her.

Params:
amonia - 0
nitrite - 0
nitrate - about 10ppm
temp: 78degrees

I know it's not something wrong with my water or dechlorinator as my bettas in smaller tanks are perfectly fine. Could it have been the rid-ich? Anything I can do, or are all of my fish doomed to die?
Most of the fry have died off as well. I originally had over 30-I'm down to 12 now.
 

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i would add carbon to your filter to remove and residule meds from the tank and start do PWC EVERY day i would say, just to be safe, 30-50%. If you have a QT alrady cycled and ready to go transfer all the remaining fish into it until we can figure our what is wrong with your current set up
 

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I can only second Molliefan's ideas, take all fish or at least the 'sickest' looking ones (depending on the other tanks size) out into your other tank and treat that 'sick' tank with daily W/c for a WHILE.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm currently housing a trio of guppies in my quarantine tank for a friend. She just got them about a week ago. I don't want to risk any of the fish by allowing my fish to be in the same tank as hers. I'm not even allowing the same nets to be used.

Any more ideas?

On a good note, my leo was out mouthing at the breeder box with the fry in it. I'm guessing he was hungry, so I put a few flakes in there and my remaining fish all ate the food, so at least everyone is still eating.
 

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I Just had a crash myself -- I would suggest being very thorough in your vacuum -- I had the black stuff in my gravel, make sure you are able to look underneath your tank and see if you have evidence of hydrogen sulfide --

If you do, don't just shake the sand loose, vacuum it up so you don't release it unnecessarily in the water.

since you have a lot die off there may be something rotting in the tank that you might not know
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE:

I lost every fish in the tank.

What should I do now? I would HATE to have to break down the entire tank and kill off all my beneficial bacteria.
 

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Omg...im so sorry =( That may be your best bet. Clean the tank and run through the cycling process again.
 

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How often do you change your carbon? If you have any... I believe I've seen somewhere that it becomes toxic after it stops being "useful"
 

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UPDATE:

I lost every fish in the tank.

What should I do now? I would HATE to have to break down the entire tank and kill off all my beneficial bacteria.
I would were it me,, remove the filter material from the tank and toss it away. I would then gravel vaccum the tank until water level was down to where only the gravel was covered with water. I would remove all of the decoration in the tank and scrub them with bleach and water solution. I would also scrub filter parts,hoses,etc. Then I would load the filter with all new filter media including activated carbon and refill the tank. I would let the tank run for at least ten days with no fish . I would also at this time place decorations back into the tank. You will in effect be starting with a new tank, but some filter material from your other tank, or tanks, will serve as seed material for your now Cycling tank and make it safe to add three or four SMALL fish (ie) silvertipped tetras,bloodfin tetras,or pristilla tetras. These three or four small fish will not create a large bioload and will serve to help establish the bacteria in the tank along with the used filter material from your other tank which you will have added to the filter on the cycling tank. I would let the tank run for ten days with these SMALL active fish and observe for any signs of distress while feeding them sparingly. With the seed material you used from your other tank ,there should be no dangerous levels of ammonia or nitrites assuming you don't overfeed the fish. At this time,if all fish appear well. I would resume weekly 25 percent water changes and continue to stock the tank slowly.
I would also use a dechlorinator such as PRIME or AMQUEL+ for all water changes from this point on.
Some would say that adding the seed material from your other tank to the one you drained will make it possible to add fish immediately, and normally,, I would agree. However, I am also considering that some type of pathogen may have been responsible for sudden deaths you experienced, and by letting the tank run for ten days to two weeks,, many pathogens will not be able to survive with no fish to serve as hosts. Is why were it me,I would not add fish for the period mentioned. The filter material borrowed from your quarantine tank should allow you to mature or (cycle) the tank once again in a matter of days if done as described. Good luck!
 
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