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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 60ltr tank and have discovered that a 125ltr tank is only 20cm wider. I'm now in the process of making my wife think it is her idea to get a slightly bigger tank.
If that works what is the best way to move things over as I wouldn't be able to have two tanks up together.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
When I say move things over I mean my fish. But if like to change the substrate
 

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Well, that's going to be a problem if you are going to tear down the other tank and put the new one in its place.. If you get new substrate you are going to start the cycle all over again... and no filters do not help even if they are old and full of Benificial bacteria..

Most of the bacteria live in the rocks. Remove that and itll set a new cycle trust me I did that to my 27g hex and my ammonia went to 8.0 with fish in it, but I used 2 capfuls of prime a day and never had 1 fish die not even a neon tetra.

Anyway, best thing I could suggest would be to do this... Put your fish in a bucket with a heater and airstone going... Then drain the old tank down to about 40%.. A 15 gallon tank doesn't weigh that much even when full of water.. at least not for me so if you drain half of the water you are sure to be able to move it with ease out of the way.. Ive carried one before full of water lifting it off the stand and set it on the floor. put the rocks in a bucket or two depending how many you have... But only drain about 40% of of the water... Then get your wife.. or some bud to help move your old tank over out of the way a little. Then move the new tank in position... Then drain the last 40% of the old tanks water into your new tank.. Then put the new rocks or whatever in the tank and then with a BIG net you use to net your fish.. Scoop your old rocks and put that in the tank water and slush it around with your hand underneath to get sold of the old poo and stuff out from the rocks with the good bacteria.. then toss those rocks and keep doing that to all your old rocks until your done..

Am I making sense here ? Then move over your old filters to the new tank and don't wash them... Then fill up the tank using prime to declorinate the water if you have chlorine in your water.. Then put the heater in there and make sure its optimal temp.. Then put your old fish in the new tank.. And keep and eye on the ammonia levels.. If they start to go up using 1-2 capful of prime a day until your ammonia and nitrites are gone..

And walla new substrate with 40% of your old tanks water and the old filters and you washed your old gravel in the new tanks water.. This is the absolute best way I can think of to setup a new tank with new gravel and not have a cycle.
 

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I've swapped out gravel in a tank without a cycling issue. Unless your running UGF only the very surface of the substrate holds any nitrifying bacteria, no different from any other surface in the tank.

Don't ever move a tank when it has water or gravel, they're designed to be moved completely empty. Moving with contents weakens seams, risking a leak or blowout in the future.
 

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I've moved my 15 year old hexagon half filled with water many times to different positions in my bedroom... Its 15 years old.. no leaks... and a hexagon has 6 panes of glass.. .. A 15 gallon tank will hardly leak or bend with 2 people carrying each side and moving it 2 feet away for the new tank with 40% of the water in it..
I've done this with my 22 year old 30g tank too... no leaks

The very surface of the substrate has more surface area due to the amount of rocks on the surface and it isn't just the surface.. if you have a power head or water flowing inside the tank.. then youll have nitrifying bacteria under the surface rocks too....Rocks have more BB then the glass walls or plants or any average HOB filter.... Do you care explain when I removed my puke blue gravel for some floramax substrate, my ammonia went to 8ppm for 2 weeks and I didn't go to a new tank, I still had all the old water, and plants and driftwood ? Im kinda irritated by people who keep saying this.. Its a myth.. the rocks hold the most of the BB then anything in the entire tank... I could shut my filter off right now and I wouldnt have any a ammonia spike.. I wash my filters in chrlorinated water every week... and I have no ammonia spikes.. and my 27g hex has like 35 fish in it.... A lot of people seem to think a HOB filter is controlling the entire tanks fate and my 17 years experience begs to differ...

Go remove all the rocks in one of your tanks.. garuntee your ammonia will spike
 

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Hello :
Follow tolak advice and empty the tank before moving. Some folks can do dangerous things and never experience any problem others may not be so lucky.
pop
 

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If you've got any idea at all how many tanks I've moved over the years, well, latest adventure was disassembling & selling off a 30 tank fishroom. This includes another 30+ tanks that weren't being used. Some were stacked with gravel in them, half had cracked or blown out bottoms. Lot's of 15's, they're landfill now. This isn't the first time I've had to go through something like this, doubt it will be the last. You can research what the manufacturers of tanks have to say about this, they will confirm, empty it out. They have experience with new tanks, I've got experience with IRL tanks that threaten to gash your fingers off or do a Freddy Krueger on your leg. Your choice on how you'd like to experience this.

Here's a good example of what can happen when you move a tank with substrate & a couple inches of water;



72 bow, not my doing, but a free tank for me. That cracked crossbrace is what's supposed to keep the glass from bowing out. Director of sales at the shop decided to move his tank in one weekend. Did it the easy way instead of the right way. Didn't want to risk 72 gallons of washed carpeting even after having the machinist weld up & install reinforcement;



Go remove all the rocks in one of your tanks.. garuntee your ammonia will spike
I already have, long ago. One tank left with gravel, my dad's old 55. I've already replaced the gravel once in it. Get a 3/4" ID or larger hose, you can siphon the gravel right out. You will fill a 5 gallon bucket in under a minute, and it makes a lot of racket. No spikes, no issues, there's easy ways around any of that should it occur. If it makes you feel better I'll pull it, rinse it with tap, and dump it right back in, fish still in the tank. I'll leave it out for a while, doesn't much matter. As far as your substrate replacement, I wasn't there for it, but I do have to wonder about reusing all the old water. A mature colony of nitrifying bacteria is capable of doubling every 24 hours. It sounds like something way beyond a substrate issue.

Here's the thing; there's plenty I do that I wouldn't suggest that others do. There's a stack of empty 15 gallon tanks behind me, tip of the iceberg for spare gear. The OP has a 60l, and is thinking about a 125l. I'm not about to answer like there's a couple dozen tanks, with another half dozen for backup, along with the gear associated with them, and with 20+ years of experience to fall back on. I'll provide an answer tailored to their experience level, equipment available, and individual situation. Personally I'd drain it 3/4, grab it & move it. If it leaks I'd grab another tank from the stack, toss out the leaker, it's a 15 gallon, worth about $5 in my world. I don't care if I soak my concrete floor with a floor drain.

Fast the fish for 2 days before the switch, you'll be feeding lightly for the next week, less food means less waste produced, minimizes any cycling issues. Unplug everything, wait 10 minutes. Drain the tank down to the point that it's easier to catch the fish, put some of this water into the container you plan on keeping the fish in. Put some in another container for your filter media. Net the fish, put them into the container, put it in a place where the temperature won't drop, with a cover. Toss the media in the second container.

Drain the rest of the water, pull any decorations, the filter, the heater, leave it with just the substrate. Use the net to pull out the substrate, alternately you can use a plastic fast food cup with some holes poked in the bottom for drainage. A bucket is a good thing for substrate, it does have some weight to it.

Tank is now empty, probably wet, and dirty, but safe to move. The dirt will hose out. Set up the new tank as you would any new tank, if you want to use new substrate give it a rinse to remove any dust, old substrate could use a rinse to remove any debris should you care to reuse it. Feed the fish lightly for the next week, and enjoy the new tank!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys I appreciate the response. I'm glad the discussion was had regarding to empty or not to empty fully.
Im glad I'll be able to swap things over without to much trouble.
 

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If your ammonia didn't spike then you must be one of those people who put like 4 fish in a 55g tank.. All of my tanks the ammonia spiked when I swapped substrate out.. But then I have like 30 fish in my 27g hexagon and so forth.

I can understand what youre saying on tanks breaking moving them with water or rocks in them.. but I haven't had issues like that in 20+ years.. My Perfecto tanks have never broken while moving them with stuff in them.. Do you know how many times I've moved in my life and our 22 year old 30g we never taske the rocks out of it.. Or many times I've slid my 27g hexagon over carpet half filled with water...

Maybe for a larger tank I can see it happening.. as my new 44G Pentagon which had WIDE glass panels I notice when I push on the points on this tank when full of water they flex in an out.


As ofr your plastic support braces breaking... I blame that on old age... Do you know how dry and brittle the plastic on these tanks get over years ? The plastic lids are made of the same material and those thing get so brittle I can break them easier then a tooth pick... If your plastic support brace brakes.. gorilla blue it back together... A brace is there to keep the glass from breaking.. Hardly something to throw out a fish tank for.. can be fixed for $8
 

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When I upgraded from a 20 gallon to a 55 gallon I used all new gravel and all new water. There's really not much benefit to using old tank water unless there's an issue with PH or hardness. I would just rather start with clean, new water. Why keep old tank water which would just add nitrates and waste?

This is what I did:

Removed fish from the 20 gallon into 5 gallon bucket with a heater. Removed decor and filters and put into another bucket with some of the drained tank water to keep everything wet. Drained the tank and removed the old gravel so it could be moved safely. Moved the new tank into position, washed the new gravel and added it to the tank, filled the tank with water and dechlorinated, added heater and brought up to temp, added decor back in, checked temp and PH then acclimated the fish. I used the old filter off the 20 gallon as well as added a new Penguin 350 bio-wheel. I also hung a stocking full of some of the old gravel near the intake of the filter for a few weeks. I checked levels daily but did not see even a mini cycle. HOWEVER, the fish I moved over were a 5" Severum and a medium sized Chocolate Pleco. I did not have alot of fish to move over so this could have been why I did not see any problem with ammonia/nitrites. But they were larger bioload fish. My Whisper 60 had enough BB in it to handle the switch even with all new substrate and water. Using the old decor also helped. So every situation could be a different experience.

I don't know if this helps any. Just thought I would add what my experience has been. As for moving tanks full of water and gravel. If it's a smaller tank you might be able to get away with it but I would rather be safe and remove as much weight so as not to put any strain on the tank.
 

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If your ammonia didn't spike then you must be one of those people who put like 4 fish in a 55g tank..
AqAdvisor wept;





When I get fish in it's by the hundreds. When I stock tanks & run it through AqAdvisor for laughs I often come out with a four digit percentage on the stocking.

I can understand what youre saying on tanks breaking moving them with water or rocks in them.. but I haven't had issues like that in 20+ years.. My Perfecto tanks have never broken while moving them with stuff in them.. Do you know how many times I've moved in my life and our 22 year old 30g we never taske the rocks out of it.. Or many times I've slid my 27g hexagon over carpet half filled with water...
I have a truck because I move tanks;





And they don't slide once set up;






As ofr your plastic support braces breaking... I blame that on old age... Do you know how dry and brittle the plastic on these tanks get over years ? The plastic lids are made of the same material and those thing get so brittle I can break them easier then a tooth pick... If your plastic support brace brakes.. gorilla blue it back together... A brace is there to keep the glass from breaking.. Hardly something to throw out a fish tank for.. can be fixed for $8
Look, I run a for profit fishroom, selling tropical fish & supplies on the side, for many years. I don't make money buying used gear that's useless, or throwing out what can be repaired reasonably cheap. I'm also not going to make a profit taking myself out of the game with a trip to the local ER. I'm pretty sure I'm clued up on plastic tank bracing if I can build a 10'x3' rack to hold 260 gallons of tanks.

One thing I'm also up on;



This is the beginner's section. I'm not going to advise tank setup, stocking, maintenance, any of that to a beginner the same as I would someone more advanced. If you can't advise a variety of ways of doing something in aquatics you really haven't been paying attention all those years. If the OP was someone new to driving you'd have them pointed down the ramp nailing the gas onto the local expressway for lesson #2. The OP is considering tank #2, and has been at this for just shy of a year. That is why this topic is in the beginner's section, help should be provided taking that into consideration. Apparently you're not getting that.

If you'd like to start a topic on the more advanced tricks of the trade there's a section here just for that; Advanced Freshwater Discussion

Post up your tank moving, gravel pulling, stocking ideas, whatever, I'll jump right into that in a manner oriented towards a more advanced aquarist.
 

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Lol big man... big man... So because you think you can put a few 2x4s together using metal braces and a few nails your better then me or know more about fish tanks ?? I could pull the same **** on you... Oh i work on cars i tear sown engines and rebuild them from the ground up so i must know more then you about mechanics and engineering. Do you really want to get into who has more expertise now ? You have your advice i have mine.. If you dont like what i told him fine... I have told him what i have done before and what worked for me i havent had tanks blow up or crack by moving them... And you posting a picture of 50 angels in a 30g tank to put me down over my ammonia.gravel talk earlier all i can do is laugh

Sure you can do that but next time hide the 1,000 gallon sump you have under all those tanks lol... Im talking about 1 tank 1 filter... I garuntee you if you have lets say 3 or 4 angel fish 3-4 rainbows and 6 or 7 other tetras and say 15 neons in a 55g.. if you remove all the substrate your ammonia will spike..

Were talking about the OP's 1 tank. And moving the OPS tank to another.. not your aquarium shop in your basement using a sump system..
 

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Lol big man... big man... So because you think you can put a few 2x4s together using metal braces and a few nails your better then me or know more about fish tanks ??
Oh, I'm nobody big, the sort of guys I hang with all have the same kind of setup, more or less. I'm 30 tanks & just shy of 1k gallons. Jerry is a half mile away, 65 tanks, 3k gallons. Charlie is a mile away, 15 tanks, right around 500 gallons, Bob is 2 miles out, 40 tanks, 1500 gallons. Depending on the span, weight & so on you will be better served with 2x6's for main members, 4x4's for legs. Use screws, not nails. Yes, I just might know more about tanks.


I could pull the same **** on you... Oh i work on cars i tear sown engines and rebuild them from the ground up so i must know more then you about mechanics and engineering.
Yes, you just might know more about car motors. The thing is, this is a tropical fish forum, the bore & stroke forum is a few forums down.

Do you really want to get into who has more expertise now ? You have your advice i have mine.. If you dont like what i told him fine... I have told him what i have done before and what worked for me i havent had tanks blow up or crack by moving them... And you posting a picture of 50 angels in a 30g tank to put me down over my ammonia.gravel talk earlier all i can do is laugh
That's 100 angels in a 40b, 10 were in there. I would tell you how you can take a tank with 10 angels, add 100, and see no spikes, but this is not the section for it.

Sure you can do that but next time hide the 1,000 gallon sump you have under all those tanks lol... Im talking about 1 tank 1 filter... I garuntee you if you have lets say 3 or 4 angel fish 3-4 rainbows and 6 or 7 other tetras and say 15 neons in a 55g.. if you remove all the substrate your ammonia will spike..
Those are a pair of 150 gallon tubs under there, stocked, not sumps;



You know what happens when you assume; the PVC overflows are for the water change system. Filtration is all air driven, box & sponge filters. Your example 55 gallon tank is stocked fine for this section. If you'd like to discuss advanced stocking as well as filtration, well, you know the section.


Were talking about the OP's 1 tank. And moving the OPS tank to another.. not your aquarium shop in your basement using a sump system..
And I'd like to see someone new to this have success with a tank transfer, 1 tank or dozens. Each of my tanks is its own individual system, not sumped. If you'd like to go further with this type of filtration, well, different location bro.
 
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