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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i upgraded from my 6g fluval edge to a 20g tall. I added some cardinal tetras and corys, i was told before 3 doses of aquarium salt (days 1,2, and 4) at 1 Tbsp per 5 gal. Are any of these fish sensitive enough to warrant a lower dosage?
 

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You could just raise the temp to at least 86 for 2 weeks. Not that you can't use salt, but I find it easier to just raise the temp.


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I wouldn't use salt, their freshwater fish not brackish.

A raised temperature will speed up the cycle of Ich, go as high as you can without obvious signs of stress in the fish. Be aware that a higher temp means lower oxygen, so make sure you have a bubbler running or your filter creating good agitation.

For mediation, something like Copper Safe is a much better choice than salt. It is even safe to use with live plants. However, it should not be used with inverts (shrimp and/or snails).

With an elevated temp, and medication, a week is usually all that's required. It should go away within 4 days, but go the full week to be sure.
 

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With an elevated temp, and medication, a week is usually all that's required. It should go away within 4 days, but go the full week to be sure.
It'll be gone with or without the medication with the elevated heat, just as it will be gone with or without the salt. Heat alone will cure the fish.




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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have treating with salt before with the Phantoms, they did fine. From my understanding, raising the temp only speeds the live cycle up, then the salt is what kills it when it tries to spread to other fish. (again this is from my understanding of how it was described to me last time).
 

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I have treating with salt before with the Phantoms, they did fine. From my understanding, raising the temp only speeds the live cycle up, then the salt is what kills it when it tries to spread to other fish. (again this is from my understanding of how it was described to me last time).
That's the thought behind it, but it is also very stressful to the fish.

Jaysee is right that temp alone is often enough all that's needed, but you have to get the water up high enough. It works because above 85.5 degrees ich can not reproduce, and thus they die due to their life cycle being so short.

If you can't get up to at least 86, because of say colder water fish, than I'd hands down use Coppersafe over salt. You still elevate the temperature as high as you can, to speed the cycle time as they can only be killed by chemicals in their free swimming stage.
 

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That is correct, getting the temp to at least 86 disrupts the life cycle, which kills off the parasite.

I have absolute faith the heat treatment. I administer it to every new fish while they are in quarantine. I use 88. Goldfish, dojo loaches, Denison barbs (back when they were $25 each), they have all had it. Almost 50 species have received the treatment, including cold water fish - I haven't found a fish that could not handle the treatment. Is it stressful? Possibly, but it's not like medications and salt are not. Salt is an irritant to freshwater fish, and meds are, well, meds. In my opinion, changing the temperature of the water is the easiest and least stressful method.


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Agree, given the detrimental effects of salt especially on soft water fish like cardinals and corys, never use salt with such fish. The cardinals will be fine with 86F for a week or two. The corys won't like it, but mine have managed just for a week.

Medications of any sort add stress to soft water fish, and some species will be worse off than others, and the effect can be long-term (showing up later). Best avoided unless absolutely essential.

Byron.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
so i have turned the temp up, and the ich is "getting worse" (like it does before it gets better) But i now see signs of fin rot on one or two of my black phantoms...what should i do?!?! it is only on the tail fin.
 

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so i have turned the temp up, and the ich is "getting worse" (like it does before it gets better) But i now see signs of fin rot on one or two of my black phantoms...what should i do?!?! it is only on the tail fin.
Disintegrating fins is common with ich. This is not true fin rot, though visually it looks like it might be with white edges and disintegrating fin.

The ich cycle lasts up to a week, the increased heat speeds it up but also kills it. Keep the temp at 86F or above for a full week.

Byron.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Disintegrating fins is common with ich. This is not true fin rot, though visually it looks like it might be with white edges and disintegrating fin.

The ich cycle lasts up to a week, the increased heat speeds it up but also kills it. Keep the temp at 86F or above for a full week.

Byron.
I talked to the guys at the LFS and they said it could also be the other fish nipping at him. Its the one with the most noticeable ich which could also be the "most stressed" i.e. weak link. according to them, what do you think of that?
 

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I talked to the guys at the LFS and they said it could also be the other fish nipping at him. Its the one with the most noticeable ich which could also be the "most stressed" i.e. weak link. according to them, what do you think of that?
A photo (if it is clear) might give us a hint. But fin damage can be due to several things.
 
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