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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello recently I got a 45 gallon tank as an upgrade from my lowly 1.5 gallon I had three glofish tetra in. I was wondering if to cycle the tank I should complete my school of tetra or should I just use the 3 to cycle it? Also will the 3 glofish tetra school with the black skirt tetra as they were created from them?
 

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I wouldn't add any more fish until your tank is cycled. Fish in cycles can take some time and you may lose fish if you add too many at one time. You can complete your shoal of them then. Do you have a test kit to test your water?

I have black skirts but I don't know anything about goldfish tetras. My mollies shoal together but my black skirts don't shoal with my serpae tetras at all. Actually my black skirts don't shoal much at all, but it could be we don't have enough of them for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes I have the master test kit that seems to be highly recommended, how many water changes should I do weekly? Idc if it makes the cycle take longer I prefer that over losing fisb
 

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During our first tank we didn't understand the cycling process. Now I know water changes are a must during the process. I recommend testing your water every day or at least a few times weekly during the cycle. Now water changes during the cycle I would do many small water changes rather than big water changes. 10 to 15% water changes every other day should keep your ammonia in check. Keep in mind you will have high ammonia and nitrite spikes during this process. after all your ammonia reach 0 ppm you will have a nitrate reading. Nitrates are less harmful than ammonia and nitrites but must be kept relatively low. If you have high ammonia spikes, YOU WILL, 50% water change daily may be required. Just keep monitoring your water and remember to do your water changes. I'm no expert this was how I did it. Hope this helps good luck:)
 

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I've read that you should change the water to keep the ammonia below 2 ppm, and the nitrite below say 2 ppm, and once both go to zero and stay that way for awhile you can just do regular weekly water changes.
It seems to me that you should just live with what ph etc. you have, at least until you are comfortable enough with keeping a tank to be able to deal with changing the water chemistry.
 

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What Ameliarose82 said is correct. Or you can take the short route, which many people will argue against, and that is to fill your tank with live plants, the more the better.

With enough live plants you can add fish within a day.In short, live plants absorbs the ammonia and uses the fish waste as nutrients and produces oxygen. Not gonna discuss the whole plant cycle in detail, but it worked for me.

I've started a 600 litre tank this way and its been running for 9 months now without any problems or loss of fish. At the end your tank will be cycled, but you wont have the normal spikes that kills your fish (thats if you do cycle with fish)

Comments on using live plants instead of normal cycling process would be interesting.
 

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The consensus around here seems to be that live plants are superior to the nitrogen cycle in eliminating ammonia. Plants work faster and do not cause spikes.

IF... that is if you have enough of the right kind of plants.

It takes more knowledge, skill and talent to maintain a planted tank than it does to merely create and run a nitrogen cycle
 

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The consensus around here seems to be that live plants are superior to the nitrogen cycle in eliminating ammonia. Plants work faster and do not cause spikes.

IF... that is if you have enough of the right kind of plants.

It takes more knowledge, skill and talent to maintain a planted tank than it does to merely create and run a nitrogen cycle
I agree that for beginners to rather go through the normal cycling process otherwise you will never understand it.
Planted tanks takes more knowledge and money, but you cant argue that nothing really compares to a fully high tech planted tank with fish.
The reason I started mentioning planted tanks is most properbly because I have added another aquarium to my collection and started a fully planted tank. Just puts another perspective on an aquarium.
 

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I agree that for beginners to rather go through the normal cycling process otherwise you will never understand it.
Planted tanks takes more knowledge and money, but you cant argue that nothing really compares to a fully high tech planted tank with fish.
The reason I started mentioning planted tanks is most properbly because I have added another aquarium to my collection and started a fully planted tank. Just puts another perspective on an aquarium.
Funny, I setup my little cycle experiment so I could see exactly how a plantless tank might cycle. I found the plants to be so easy... when it comes right down to it both are simple, just different. I am now considering a tank with rocks and hardscape rather than plants as a result of seeing how this works... also to add another perspective for me.

With fish in you should change the water every day or two while using a conditioner like Prime that renders the ammonia and nitrites non-toxic to the fish if there are any measurable levels of either. What the actual level is of less concern but preferably under 1ppm is best. With only a few fish and regular changes it will not likely get any higher anyway.

Don't mess with the pH, it's better to be stable than bang on... within the range needed for the fish is still more ideal but there are ways to adjust it naturally rather than with adjustment chemicals. See where it settles once the tank is established and then you can research what might be best at that point. There are lots here that have good ideas for that.

Jeff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Day 4 of cycling I haven't seen any nitrites or nitrates and my ammonia is at .5 ppm right now (doing a water change as we speak) should I add the prime everyday?


Sent from Petguide.com Free App
 

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Day 4 of cycling I haven't seen any nitrites or nitrates and my ammonia is at .5 ppm right now (doing a water change as we speak) should I add the prime everyday?


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If you are on city water, you should be adding it every change for the chlorine anyway. The Prime works for a day or two so if you are changing every two days, just use Prime when you change.

Jeff.
 

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Yes, but they are non-toxic with the Prime treatment and it doesn't affect any cycling or plant uptake of ammonia.
I was wondering about that, because everybody says to use prime, but the description says "removes ammonia" so I was confused. Thanks for clearing that up!
 

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I was wondering about that, because everybody says to use prime, but the description says "removes ammonia" so I was confused. Thanks for clearing that up!
Here's a good read about how it works... I need to refresh my memory on this topic as now I cannot recall why they claim that it is removed but it has something to do with creating some iminium salts or other.

How Prime works thread

I know that it removes chlorine by turning it into an ammonia compound so Prime actually will increase the amount of ammonia in the water but renders it harmless in the assumption that your cycle or plants can deal with it inside of 24-48 hours... whichis the mechanism of removal.

I don't believe that they really know exactly how or why it does this detox thing.

If you are in the process of creating a cycle, it will not remove any ammonia.

Jeff.
 
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