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Discussion Starter #1
I am sensitive to no floods in the house. Trying to select the best tank setup but want to minimize the chance of floods. What is the best setup for a 55-75G tank FOLR with maybe an annenome. Sump needed or not? Currently planning on a wet/dry and protein skimmer.

I have read a couple posts on flooding issues. Not real clear to me yet why an external hanging tank that feeds a sump is prone to flood after a power outage but a tank with a hole that feed a sump is not?
 

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an overflow box uses a siphon, once the power goes out the siphon fails but the return water pump doesnt leading to a flood. With a drilled hole it uses simple gravity, when the power goes out there is no water to fall with gravity, when the power goes back on the gravity starts again.

I wouldnt suggest an anemone, they are very hard to take care of and require really intense lighting (10 wpg of MH lighting at minimum for most anemones)
 

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I've had this argument until I'm blue in the face. I have tanks at the house here that use dual Utube overflows and I've NEVER had a problem with them. I've set up numerous tanks for others and they've NEVER had a problem. The problem is with the set up. Never buy one of those weird units that need an air pump or whatever it is. The more simple the better. And again it's all in how you set up the tank. I've never lost a siphon with the Utube set ups. As soon as the power comes back on my pump begins to run and the tank fills up. When there is enough water it uses the overflow just like always.

For a FOWLR you wouldn't need to worry that much about a sump. However I'd still run one since you can use a sump mounted skimmer. Nothing in life sucks more then buying a crappy HOT skimmer only to have it overflow. Where does HOT skimmate flow? That's right, somewhere behind the tank where you can never clean it. Where does sump mounted skimmer skimmate go? Back into the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK, I am new to this equipment so I have a lot of newbie questions. I re-read some previous posts again on sumps. I think I am starting to get it.

With a hole in the tank it can only drain by gravity when the water level is high enough. Therefore, power off - no flow to sump or tank, power on - flow to tank so overflow to sump.

With an overflow box, a siphon tube concept generally is not a problem as long as the siphon is not lost (when a power fail occurs or any other time when the pump is on). However, this normally does not happen.

Still not clear how the box works but here is my guess (please correct my understanding), water siphons from the inside box to the outside box and then overflows to the sump, sump pumps to the tank, level in outside box matches the inside tank level? If this is it, not sure why it would ever loose siphon unless the main tank drops below the siphon level of either side of the siphon tube??
Power off - no flow to sump or tank, power on - flow to tank so overflow to sump.
 

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it really is a matter of brand names, some cheap brands of overflow uses the most basic siphons that lose all the water and is almost sure that it will flood, some really good quality ones almost never ever flood. To me instead of going around asking people how good a brand is about staying away from flooding is harder than just bringing the tank for someone to drill. Im not big on brand names so you will have to ask someone (like CRM) on what are good overflow boxes
 

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I will never use a U overflow box or recomend one to a friend. CPR are the only ones ill use if i need an HOB overflow. If at all possible drill the tank its so much beter.

You have the basic idea of how it works just do some more reading on how you want to apply it.
 

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What makes it so easy to drill a hole in your tank? Aren't aquariums made of tempered glass? And doesn't tempered glass shatter when you try to drill it? I was just wondering if they had a special way of drilling or something. :?
 

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Hamdogg not all glass tanks are tempered. there are ways to check. Take 2 polarized camera lens filters and stack them on top of each other. Bein twisting the one on top while placing this to the glass. If you see a big ol "+" sign it's tempered. It really isn't that easy to drill them either. A special bit is required. reef ready tanks come in glass and acrylic.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, general consensus, get a reef ready tank = drilled with overflow.

Now for the sump, if I am going with a 55-65G tank, go with a 10G?? sump? In the sump I put the skimmer (inside the tank?) and submersible?return pump? and hang the heater? Anything else for beginners?

I know these are alot of sump 101 questions. Just trying to get it right the first time.
 

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Jake said:
Ok, general consensus, get a reef ready tank = drilled with overflow.

Now for the sump, if I am going with a 55-65G tank, go with a 10G?? sump? In the sump I put the skimmer (inside the tank?) and submersible?return pump? and hang the heater? Anything else for beginners?

I know these are alot of sump 101 questions. Just trying to get it right the first time.
well you need a micro bubble filter thing (so micro bubbles wont enter the main tank) and you can add a refugium if you have a bigger sump
 

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a sump is easy. its kinda like a big filter for saltwater, well if you have a refugium in it, it is. but it is easier than having all the equipment hanging on the back of your tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Getting closer. I plan to buy a used setup but have not found any that are reef ready, so now it looks like I am back to an overflow box? For a 75G FOLR do I need a sump?

Also, I am still not understanding if they drill your tank how do you create the overflow section - add a tube to the fitting in the tank? Where is the hole drilled? bottom?
 

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drilled holes take water at the same place as overflow boxes, at the surface. You can get ones that drain from the bottom of your tank but if the power goes out it will keep draining which will empty your tank and suffocate your tank members. Drilled ones at the top that skim the top water line is best.
 
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