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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a set-up tank and moved it. I used all the same water, did not do a water change, put in Stress Coat in the amount noted on the bottle the day after the move (yesterday). When I looked in the tank this morning, all four Amano shrimp, one tetra, and one Chinese algae eater are dead. The other fish are coming to the surface for air. I did a quick strip test just to check water, and it looks fine. Temp looks fine. I don't know what to do. :(
 

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I just bought a set-up tank and moved it. I used all the same water, did not do a water change, put in Stress Coat in the amount noted on the bottle the day after the move (yesterday). When I looked in the tank this morning, all four Amano shrimp, one tetra, and one Chinese algae eater are dead. The other fish are coming to the surface for air.
Is there surface agitation at all? From a filter, or from an air bubbler? Any live plants?

I did a quick strip test just to check water, and it looks fine. Temp looks fine. I don't know what to do. :(
'looks fine' means different things to different people, do you have numbers? Need Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate.

Assuming there is surface agitation, my initial guess would Ammonia/Nitrite poisoning. Are you using all the same decorations, substrate, and filter media? Was any of it cleaned? During transport were these items kept in tank water?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I used API Stress Coat yesterday, and I miscalculated the dose. It said to give double the dose for stress, and I gave double that doubled dose.
:(
 

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Do an immediate major water change, down to 3/4 of the tank volume. Just siphon out the water, don't do any other work to stress the fish more. Use a good water conditioner on replacement water.

Come back here with results and we can continue discussion. Just to clarify...by down to 3/4, I mean remove 3/4 of the tank water.

Byron.
 

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What about surface agitation?? This is important as it alones the exchange of gases into and out of the water. Without Oxygen in the fish will gasp at the surface combined with Nitrites in the water plus to much Stress coat. I would say this is some of the problem.
I would personally do at least a 50% water change add the right amount of the conditioner and monitor the nitrites. As long as those are present I would daily water changes.
 

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It may not be the problem right now but you need to make sure the tank has surface agitation. I've had this happen recently when I swapped my 80's sponge to be hooked up to a power head. Looks like I didn't have enough surface agitation due to the angle, and well I caught it well in advance, adjusted the angle and added a small bubbler to make sure this isn't an issue again.

Also pay attention to the heat of your tank. Tanks in higher temps hold less oxygen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The guy who sold me the tank was kind enough to drive out and help me find out what was wrong, since I am new to this. The issue that was causing the fish to die is that my husband and I had reversed the hoses on the Eheim filter. :-( This not only denied the fish oxygen but basically screwed up the entire cycle.

He stayed for several hours and helped me adjust everything. I am hoping that things will continue for the better, though I'm terribly sad to have lost the fish I did.
 

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The issue that was causing the fish to die is that my husband and I had reversed the hoses on the Eheim filter. :-( This not only denied the fish oxygen but basically screwed up the entire cycle.
Reversing the hoses may reduce the surfce agitation, (sucking water in the spraybar and out the intake), and, as mentioned, this can be a factor with the overdose of stress coat but it certainly won't screw up the tank's cycle... unless the stress coat can do that... But I don't think so. As long as the surfaces substrate and filter stayed wet the nitrifying organisms will survive fine.

How long had the tank been running successfully with the fish in it when you bought it?

Are there any live plants? With no plants the agitation is far more important.

Jeff.
 

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On my Ehiem classic canister if you reverse the hose right it won't circulate. This could cause a mini cycle depending on how long it ran like that due to lack of fresh water/oxygen to the bacteria.
 

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On my Ehiem classic canister if you reverse the hose right it won't circulate. This could cause a mini cycle depending on how long it ran like that due to lack of fresh water/oxygen to the bacteria.
"If you reverse the hose right", that's sort of humorous that getting it wrong right might do something different than just getting it wrong. I don't mean anything by that comment other then it rang as an odd turn of phrase. What makes it do that?

The bacteria/archaea have been proven to be very hardy and will go dormant, they don't kill off that easily so a mini cycle will only be an off balance while they process an excess of ammonia. Ammonia over 1ppm can inhibit the nitrite oxidizers which leads to a nitrite spike as they don't get started until the ammonia drops.

Treating with prime and changing water daily after the large water change that Byron recommended will serve to detox the ammonia and nitrites.

Jeff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm happy to report that I at least didn't lose any more fish overnight. I just completed another 25% water change (nitrites were creeping up again--I definitely let myself in for a mini-cycle by not having the filter hooked up properly), and I will see how my levels look in a bit.

I'm going to test my pre-softened water tonight, and I am researching whether I can change the softness level on my water softener.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Right now, I only have the test strips for water hardness. With those, though, both the GH and KH are as high as the test goes, on the pre-softened water. :-/
 

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"If you reverse the hose right", that's sort of humorous that getting it wrong right might do something different than just getting it wrong. I don't mean anything by that comment other then it rang as an odd turn of phrase. What makes it do that?

The bacteria/archaea have been proven to be very hardy and will go dormant, they don't kill off that easily so a mini cycle will only be an off balance while they process an excess of ammonia. Ammonia over 1ppm can inhibit the nitrite oxidizers which leads to a nitrite spike as they don't get started until the ammonia drops.

Treating with prime and changing water daily after the large water change that Byron recommended will serve to detox the ammonia and nitrites.

Jeff.

LoL I have no clue but it does make a weird noise. The very first time I hooked up my canister I did it wrong and the instruction were poorly wrote and mostly in German. I thought great how on earth do I hook this loud over priced piece of junk up?? Well once I figured out what I did and reverse the hose to the right places and primed it again it has ran great and silent every since.

Also you say the bacteria goes into a dormant state but how long can it stay that way?? I though it HAD to oxygenated water to survive and in a filter that does flow right it wouldn't be getting that I wouldn't think.
 

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OK... I would get the API liquid test kit when you can as it will let you test beyond the strips' capability then you can decide what to do.

I would suggest at least half and half softened and unsoftened water for the tank to reduce the sodium and increase the hardness. It's a start.

Actually, hardness is straight math in ppm so if your softened water is zero, mix it half and half with the unsoftened water and retest then just double the reading.. if it comes out to 150ppm then you know that your source is in the 300ppm range.

Jeff.
 
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