[wake49]

We are looking at a 50g tank that comes with a Fluval u4 filter. We have a fluval fx5 filter unused we can use instead. Tank is currently freshwater so will have to be converted.

We are looking at a clownfish(maybe a pair), a flame angel, bangaii cardinal and a firefish goby as stock if possible and building around that. We anticipate it will be 3 months before we add fish based on research so far. It will be a FOWLR tank with perhaps a lone anemone for the clownfish if that works.

Your stocking list looks fine for a 50 gallon. The bangaii like to be in pairs, and watch the firefish, they tend to jump. Wait at least six months to add the anenome.

1. Do I want to go with the larger fx5 filter (capable of 900gph with no media, we previously used it on a 60g african cichlid tank. It can be adjusted.)?

No filter. Filters trap Dissolved Organic Solids (fish poop) and convert them to Nitrates, which do not leave the system. The best method of filtration in a saltwater tank is the Berlin method: 1-1/2 pounds live rock per gallon, 4" Deep Sand Bed and a Protein skimmer. The Live Rock and Sand harbor anaerobic bacteria that break down Nitrates to Nitrogen gas that will leave the system naturally, and the Protein skimmer will remove any Dissolved Organic Solids before they turn to Nitrates. This method can result in tests of 0ppm Nitrates consistently.

2. Is a sump Mandatory? We have a 35g tank empty right now we could use, but no idea atm how we would connect the two tanks.

Sump is not mandatory. Read this: Understanding Sumps about how to build them using an overflow box. The sump is a good place to hide equipment, such as the skimmer and heater, and other optional equipment such as UV Sterilizers and Calcium & Phosphate Reactors.

3. We have 30lbs or so of "live rock" It's been dry for over 2 years but still has the remains of the former cleaning crew on it. How would we go about making this usable again? I know we'll have to eventually buy a bit of actual live rock and let the organisms move on over to it but I'm thinking we'll have to cure it or something first?

If it has been dry for 2 years, it is no longer "Live". Live Rock is rock that harbors that beneficial aerobic and anaerobic bacteria, along with the Coraline Algae. I also think you need about 50 more lbs. of rock. You can buy 20 of that "Live" to seed the rest, and the balance as Base (or dry) rock.

4. Protein skimmer and UV sterilizer, are they mandatory?

See above about the berlin method and the UV is good to stop infection such as Ich and other Marine parasites, but not mandatory.

5. Do I need high output lights for my planned set up? Can I get by with standard t8 aquarium lights?

With a FOWLR, you can use standard T8s, but when you get that anenome, you want a higher ouptput light. Nems have a higher light requirement, and you can't just place them high in the tank, because they will move.

6. With freshwater fish you usually medicate the entire tank when necessary. I'm reading that with saltwater you have to remove the individual sick fish and treat them separately? Does this mean I would have to have 2 tanks going.. with all accessories as well?

It is best to have a Quarantine tank that you put a fish in before you add him to the tank, using hyposalinity (starting off at low salt count, we'll call that specific gravity, of around 1.016 and eventually getting them up to 1.025, where your Display tank should be) to treat them before adding them and in case of infection.

7. Is there any better or best brand of salt mix? What is the best way to get the salt into the tank?

Brightwell Aquatics makes a very good salt mix, but I personally use Instant Ocean and feel it is fine. It costs about half of Brightwell.

8. RO water is mandatory isn't it?

You want the water as pure as possible, and this is the best method for that. So yes, I would use RO.

9. Refractometer or Hydrometer?

Refractometer if you can afford it. Hydrometer will get you close, but not accurate. Hydrometers can swing based on the temp of the water and Refractometers won't.

Hope this helps.

 

[wake49]

Ok so we went out and got an 80g instead of the 50. May still get 50 for sump.

Just saw this.

Same stuff still applies. I would try to get to about 100 lbs of rock, and you can add a few more fish to list, just stay away from tangs, angels (dwarfs such as the flame are ok, but one pertank), triggers, puffers and other larger fish.

Is the 80 drilled?

 

[wake49]

no I do not believe this 80 is my other might be (I'm using it fresh but it was bought as a saltwater tank) I'm not quite sure what to look for...

We are also unsure of what substrate to use I have some crushed coral but read somewhere it was not good for the goby.

do I cycle with the live rock in or not?

I would put all the rock in with the water and 4" of Live Aragonite sand (I like the fiji pink). Crushed coral is too harsh and not good for harboring anaerobic bacteria.

Can you switch the two 80's? Do you use a sump on your FW?

 

[wake49]

Also here is a link to the conditions of my tap water they just updated it last month

http://www.fortstjohn.ca/files/TreatedWaterAnalysis-2013.pdf

Silicates, Copper and Sulfur levels are too high to use with an anenome. They aren't as hardy as fish and should be cared for like a coral. If you forego the anenome, the high silicate level might still be a problem with Cyano and Diatom outbreaks.

 

[wake49]

We do not use a sump we use mostly canister filters in our freshwater tanks. We filter with those and live plants. We have ran Freshwater tanks for a few years now (up to 13 at once at one point in time slowly upgrading to larger tanks) but we are so new to salt it is a huge change.
Is there something I look for to see if it's drilled?
Is there anything you suggest I do?

I am sorry, I read your other post as if the eighty you have now is drilled. You would know if it is: one or two overflows in the corner or center of rear of tank and a hole in the bottom.

You can drill a tank yourself: Glass Holes to set it up for a sump, or use an overflow siphon: CPR Aquatics

I have never drilled a tank myself, but I have drilled glass. Take your time. I have used the CPR CS90 and felt secure because of the auto-start feature that it has.

 

[wake49]

Ok so what kind of RO unit do other people use?

This one would get the job done, but there are better ones out there. You might have to change the filters more on this one (especially the membrance, those are usually specific to the manufacturer)

You will also need a TDS meter. This will tell you what the Total Dissolved Solids are in the water. You want that to be as close to zero as possible.

 

[wake49]

I really don't want to risk the tank and drill myself... is there a way to do it without drilling?

THis CPR Aquatics overflow box is made for not drilling, it uses a continuous siphon to pull water from the tank and over the side down to the sump.

You should use the Aqualifter pump to keep the siphon continuous.

 

[wake49]

I actually have something that looks like this that came with the other 80 gallon tank I was unsure what it was for

Have a picture?

 

[wake49]

I actually have something that looks like this that came with the other 80 gallon tank I was unsure what it was for

Which post was this in reference to?

 

[wake49]

The top picture is a Protein Skimmer (looks like a Prizm skimmer, not the best but can be made to work with some minor mods) and the bottom picture looks like a UV Sterilizer.

 

[wake49]

what type of protein skimmer would be a good one to get?
any suggestions on a RO system (I have to have one that is removable as we rent)?

All these RO systems are removable. They usually just have an attachment that screws into a faucet.

I have used the Seaclone, the Red Sea Berlin X2, and the Coralife Super Skimmer. I didn't like any of them.

I have heard good things about the Aqua C Remora, and ASM Skimmers, but haven't used them personally.