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So sad :( :( :(

Maybe you lost too much of your bacteria replacing all of the pads at once?

Is is possible you had a spike since then and was unaware until the nitrites were present??
 

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Also wanted to add one more pic. These are of the nitrite testing. Left, tap water reading, middle-taken before water change, right-taken after 60% water change. The furthest right is my nitrate reading, which is slight, but measurable. Just trying to put everything out there in case somewhere a cause comes to mind for my troubles. Is this amount of a spike enough to cause such trouble for my fish, or are we still thinking oxygen depletion???

Isn't oxygen depletion what nitrIte does? My guess would be oxygen depletion because of the nitrIte.
 

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I might try and borrow some filter material and or a cup of substrate from discus tank and add the borrowed filter material or gravel to the 75 gallon.Keep the water level as is for now and perhaps perform test every eight to ten hours for ammonia or nitrites.
Would in the future,,back flush the canister filter once a month and swish foam blocks around as well.
Oxygen levels in a sealed canister filter could be reduced considerably if organic solids or dissolved organics begin clogging the filter media. Bacteria need oxygen rich water passing over them to thrive.
Is one reason why HOB filters sometimes develop bacteria more quickly and tanks with these type filter's may cycle a bit quicker, filter media is exposed to more oxygen.
I personally don't buy the hype that canisters only need cleaning every three months,six months.
Would as mentioned earlier..consider a powerhead such as Koralia ll and place it so the flow from this powerhead is just below the surface of the water creating a rippling effect which will help with oxygen exchange.
Would look to see that filter hoses are clean and are not in a bind anywhere.
Might consider purchasing some more biological media ceramic,etc and once every couple months,remove half of the biological media from the canister and replace it with new while cleaning that which you remove with mild bleach/water solution to have ready for next time.
hope some of this helps and i am sorry for the loss of your fishes.:-(
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I might try and borrow some filter material and or a cup of substrate from discus tank and add the borrowed filter material or gravel to the 75 gallon.Keep the water level as is for now and perhaps perform test every eight to ten hours for ammonia or nitrites.
Would in the future,,back flush the canister filter once a month and swish foam blocks around as well.
Oxygen levels in a sealed canister filter could be reduced considerably if organic solids or dissolved organics begin clogging the filter media. Bacteria need oxygen rich water passing over them to thrive.
Is one reason why HOB filters sometimes develop bacteria more quickly and tanks with these type filter's may cycle a bit quicker, filter media is exposed to more oxygen.
I personally don't buy the hype that canisters only need cleaning every three months,six months.
Would as mentioned earlier..consider a powerhead such as Koralia ll and place it so the flow from this powerhead is just below the surface of the water creating a rippling effect which will help with oxygen exchange.
Would look to see that filter hoses are clean and are not in a bind anywhere.
Might consider purchasing some more biological media ceramic,etc and once every couple months,remove half of the biological media from the canister and replace it with new while cleaning that which you remove with mild bleach/water solution to have ready for next time.
hope some of this helps and i am sorry for the loss of your fishes.:-(
I bought the hype that the canisters didn't need to be cleaned as often, and when I did clean it I replaced all foam blocks. Those foam blocks looked black, there went all my bio. I have to assume this caused the tank to recycle, all my fault. Leave tank running as it is now, waterfalls and air bubbles, will get a powerhead and more ceramic media today.
Will check hoses and also grab handfuls of substrate from discus tank.

How do you back flush a Fluval 405??
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Foam blocks were replaced back on Jan 3. Nearly three plus weeks later the spike?? Wouldn't it have happened much sooner??
 

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There is no such thing as a coincidence- You used the nozzle, I say, blame the nozzle.

If mechanical tools like nozzles aren't meant for food or human potable water use, there can be all kinds of chemicals, dust, etc.
Wouldn't suprise me if it was a metal of some sort (copper comes to mind) in dust form from the machining.

Could have been traces of oil used in the machining

could have been anti-mildew treatment they did to the nozzle purposefully.


Unfortunately, if I am right, then the only solution is to break the entire tank down, rinse everything thoroughly with freshwater, and refill. (can move the canister to another tank once you (quickly!) rinse the media real well, so more bacteria won't die.)

I hope I'm wrong, but no matter the problem, my treatment would likely fix the problem. (The chemicals/metals could have easily killed some of the bacteria if my theory is right)
 

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Discussion Starter #28
There is no such thing as a coincidence- You used the nozzle, I say, blame the nozzle.

If mechanical tools like nozzles aren't meant for food or human potable water use, there can be all kinds of chemicals, dust, etc.
Wouldn't suprise me if it was a metal of some sort (copper comes to mind) in dust form from the machining.

Could have been traces of oil used in the machining

could have been anti-mildew treatment they did to the nozzle purposefully.


Unfortunately, if I am right, then the only solution is to break the entire tank down, rinse everything thoroughly with freshwater, and refill. (can move the canister to another tank once you (quickly!) rinse the media real well, so more bacteria won't die.)

I hope I'm wrong, but no matter the problem, my treatment would likely fix the problem. (The chemicals/metals could have easily killed some of the bacteria if my theory is right)
This brand/make/model is the same one I use for my discus tank. I was tired of switching it out every time I did water changes so I bought another one for use on my 75gl, so each tank would have their own. I hope you're not right..breaking down the tank, oh noooooo. That would be such a nightmare but if I HAD to do it I would, but I don't want to. :-(
 

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I bought the hype that the canisters didn't need to be cleaned as often, and when I did clean it I replaced all foam blocks. Those foam blocks looked black, there went all my bio. I have to assume this caused the tank to recycle, all my fault. Leave tank running as it is now, waterfalls and air bubbles, will get a powerhead and more ceramic media today.
Will check hoses and also grab handfuls of substrate from discus tank.

How do you back flush a Fluval 405??

I have an eheim 2217 on 80 gallon tank with plant's and aprox 75 small tetra's ,barbs,pencilfish,cory's,whiteclouds,etc.
I backflush the canister by closing the quick connects and then unhooking the filter from the hoses going back to the tank. I then take the canister to the sink in the kitchen and place a small plastic dish pan in the sink. I then open the top and bottom valves on canister and let the water from canister drain into the dish pan. I then open the top of canister and pour the water just collected in dish pan back into the filter and it once again runs out of bottom drain but thisd time the water goes down the drain.
You could use two dish pans and repeat the process a few times taking care to only pour aquarium water through the filter.(clean the impeller at this time also)
I also clean or replace mechanical portion of the media at this time and then close the valves.I then just take the filter back to the cabinet,hook the hoses back up,open the valves,and the filter usually start's back up after a couple minutes to re-fill.
At three months depending on fish load and how dirty biological media looks,,I pull half and replace it with new.
Same process as before ,only this time,,I dump the biological media into the plastic dishpan that water from canister was drained into after backflushing the filter.
Hope this makes sense.
 

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Also until you find out whats going on with your water I would not do a water change on your other tank. I have a feeling due to low oxygen or whatever issue may be occurring it soudns like there is with the "NEW" water and not the tank.

This all seemed to start when the water was changed the first time. Perhaps something in the tap water changed..
 

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Foam blocks were replaced back on Jan 3. Nearly three plus weeks later the spike?? Wouldn't it have happened much sooner??

Wished I could answer that. Remember what Ty's signature used to say?'The only thigs that happen quickly in the aquarium, are bad things".
Whose to say that condition wasn't there before (nitrites,) but went unnoticed?
 

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I deal with problem resolution with my work and deal with some of the most complex issues. I may not be a expert in tank care. I have had a 55g 10 years ago and my 20g now. One thing is for suer is I have had fish in test results much higher than that. It sounds like the new water is contaminated.

Its the only thing that makes sense since it is a established tank.

This was from taking in all the factors you provided about what has occurred. I highly doubt the connection has anything to do with it. For the volume of water even if there were "dust" of any kind it would be unlikely in a tank that large to have that strong of an effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I deal with problem resolution with my work and deal with some of the most complex issues. I may not be a expert in tank care. I have had a 55g 10 years ago and my 20g now. One thing is for suer is I have had fish in test results much higher than that. It sounds like the new water is contaminated.

Its the only thing that makes sense since it is a established tank.

This was from taking in all the factors you provided about what has occurred. I highly doubt the connection has anything to do with it. For the volume of water even if there were "dust" of any kind it would be unlikely in a tank that large to have that strong of an effect.
Great, today is Discus tank water change day. When I test out of the tap the readings are fine. If there was no oxygen in the tap wouldn't I see a reading for ammonia/nitrites out of the tap??
When I did the two emergency water changes fish were fine for approx. five to six hours and then nitrite spike happens. To me, it sounds like an uncycled tank. How the heck could my tap water be contaminated?? I know it could but how??
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Wished I could answer that. Remember what Ty's signature used to say?'The only thigs that happen quickly in the aquarium, are bad things".
Whose to say that condition wasn't there before (nitrites,) but went unnoticed?
Yep, your signature line and Ty's are equally right on. It's possible on the nitrites since I hadn't tested for that on this tank in awhile, always testing for ammonia though. I can't say why I neglected to test for nitrites. Up until last night tank has been great so I suppose I figured there was no need.

On another note, I just drove down the street to pick up some Stability from the LFS.
Big sign up, "Buliding for rent", business is gone. :-(
Ron works down at the LFS in San Diego (30 miles from my house) so I may end up running down there later today to get some Stability. I'll wait until 1pm, as that will mark six hours since last water change and make sure the fish are still doing ok and that the nitrite hasn't climbed. With my luck I'll be doing another water change at 1pm.
 

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Great, today is Discus tank water change day. When I test out of the tap the readings are fine. If there was no oxygen in the tap wouldn't I see a reading for ammonia/nitrites out of the tap??
When I did the two emergency water changes fish were fine for approx. five to six hours and then nitrite spike happens. To me, it sounds like an uncycled tank. How the heck could my tap water be contaminated?? I know it could but how??

Depending on your source water their could be minerals in the water when no longer under pressure causes the oxygen depletion.

For example the water here in Orlando is extremely hard there are all sorts of things that can get stirred up. There are times when the water is not as hard and there is less in it.

There are a lot of things in public water that our test kits dont pick up on. There could be a contaminant that got stirred up in your local water supply. It could be temp.

I could be completely wrong as well ;) Iit just sounds like there could be a issue with the source water. If your tests were showing higher then I would be more concerned. While those items can be toxic to fish. The fish are usually a bit more tolerant for such a short period.

I would just hate to be right and you do the water change on the other tank and then have the same issue.

The other thing might be perhaps they treated more of the local water with chlorine this can fluctuate quite a bit depending on where the source water comes from.
 

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Kymmie I have no suggestions just wanted to offer my support. I hope you can figure out whats going on.
 

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Wow, sorry to hear you're still having problems. What a nightmare! Between this and the cyano you have your hands full, don't you girl! Hope you get to the bottom of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Wow, sorry to hear you're still having problems. What a nightmare! Between this and the cyano you have your hands full, don't you girl! Hope you get to the bottom of it.
LOL, it's enough to make one toss their hands up and say, "Okay, I give up. Done, finished, over it".
 

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Sweetpoison I love the the hug thing! Aunt Kymmie I know you said you got the sam kind of nozzle you have for the discus tank but next time you change the water why not do it with the old nozzle that would rule out maybe some kind of defect in the nozzle.
 
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