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Discussion Starter #1
Seems I am having an issue with cyanobacteria.

I have no idea what is causing it.

All parameters are prefect and within the levels they should be at.

Phosphate, ammonia, nitrate is zero,
magnesium is 1250ppm,
calcium 420ppm
pH 8.2
Temp stable at 80F raising to 84F when the full lights are on.
SG 1.025

Lighting is a T5HO 72w Quad unit (soon to be this unit)

Feeding is twice a day and with only two clownfish is minimal.

Thoughts and suggestions?
 

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How old are the bulbs again? Replace after 9 months.
Feeding to much. Go to once a day.
How long are your lights on for in a day?
Temp is a bit on the high side. I'd not let it come above 80. I know your within norms, but its really a bit high.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Bulbs are not even 6 months old.

Ok, will drop feeding to once a day.

Lights are Actinics on 11.30am-9.45pm, Daylights 12pm-9.20pm, Blue LED moonlight - dont really use them.

Will drop temperature to set thermometer at 76F should keep the tank just above 78F when all lights on.
 

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to much food and dont forget to pre-rinse frozen foods before feeding.
do you use GFO in a reactor?

if you can add a small clip on fan ( or ziptie it ) to your canopy to come on ( @ say 80 degrees if you have a controller ) to blow across the surface of the water. this will increase evaporation but can help with high temps.
 

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I agree with all said above.

An easy way to immediately remove cyno is to suck it up with your mixing pump. I attached a small hose to the intake and a ball valve for control. Worked like a charm.

But this wont solve the issue, whatever is causing it must be fixed or it will return.

I made a cooling fan out of a phone charger and computer fan, then mounter in under my 3rd chamber cover (or could be a hood depending on tank) with 3M car tap.

It lowered my temps from 84F to 80F. A cheap alternative to buying a chiller if temperature becomes a constant problem.

MetalArm3
 

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But this wont solve the issue, whatever is causing it must be fixed or it will return.
MetalArm3
this is important because yes, it will return and/or other algaes arise from excess nutrients.
i have also used a product called chemiclean i believe ( follow direcetions to the T ) and had good results but again this is AFTER adressing the issue.
small water changes of siphoning it out, cut back feedings, increase flow, GFO reactor, are all good places to start and see where that leaves you. i would use the chemiclean as last resort.

for the fan im talking about literally getting a small plastic house fan and using that. computer fans do work and ive used them in the past but ive found they like to short out more so then small house fans.
 

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DSCN1513.jpg
At the back of this tank (mine) you can see the lil black outline of cpu cooling fans. Lil black square fans, mounted to the back. I have 4 of these on mine, and am using 2 250w halides. Keeps my tank at 80 in the Summer, in Arizona.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys for the suggestions, I have already cut the thermometer down to 72F as of my last post this morning and will full lights it is now 78F.

I did find a dead crab in the tank shortly after I posted, removed it and some of the cyano. I have water mixed ready to go for a change tomorrow so will get a lot of the cyano out when I do that.

It could be my bulbs in my lamp, so will monitor them until I get the MH unit I posted earlier. I suspect though that I have been overfeeding so have cut that down to only one feed a day and will start off very small and increase as needed.
 

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Yes. Feeding once a day in my opinion is more than enough. I personally feed frozen food every other day with pellet food fed in between because it pollutes the tank. I also skip a feeding once a week to keep excess nutrients under control.
Posted via Mobile Device
 

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Thanks guys for the suggestions, I have already cut the thermometer down to 72F as of my last post this morning and will full lights it is now 78F.

I did find a dead crab in the tank shortly after I posted, removed it and some of the cyano. I have water mixed ready to go for a change tomorrow so will get a lot of the cyano out when I do that.

It could be my bulbs in my lamp, so will monitor them until I get the MH unit I posted earlier. I suspect though that I have been overfeeding so have cut that down to only one feed a day and will start off very small and increase as needed.
:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
UPDATE, did the water change and removed as much cyano as I could find.

Sadly when I got home from work this afternoon, disaster! My shrimp is dead and I am fighting to keep the fish alive at the moment. My auto top off system failed (float switch I suspect) and caused my tank to be totally flooded with RO/DI water, SG went from 1.026 when I did the change this morning to 1.002 when I came home. I have been slowly mixing saltwater and at the time of writing this have the SG up to 1.015.

My clownfish are not doing so well though, they have been at the top of the tank and havent really moved much. Hope they pull through as I dont want to lose them. To make matters worse, my overflow is leaking somewhere, nice puddle of water behind the tank and all over the floor of the stand.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Coming up to 1am, SG is back at 1.026 finally after a lot of work and 65g of RO/DI water quickly made, poor RO/DI filter needs a break as it was sweating, well the evaporation from the unit made a bit of a mess but rather that than potentially losing the whole tank.

Clowns are swimming around and my anemones seem to be happy, they are holed up at the moment, but were out fully before when the lights were on.

Fixed the overflow leak, luckily it was a slow leak on the bulkhead gasket, changed that as I had a spare and that solved it.

Tomorrow will be remove the live rock and check to see if all the CUC made it, may even go get another shrimp and some firefish if they have the ones I want.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
yeah, decided as I am on vacation soon, will stabilize as best as I can now and then replace/add when I get back.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Am really stumped now.

I know I have phosphate in the system as the cyano is still there and had a big outbreak overnight. I have cut back feeding and am now considering options.

After the crash I reported, everything is back to normal level wise except the issue with cyano.

Now options I am considering are:

1 - Replace the 4 39w T5H0 bulbs in my fixture although it is not even 6 months old yet.

2 - Replace the fixture with a LED or MH fixture

3- Get a product to tackle the cyano.

Am definitely going to pick up some more macro algae to go with the cheato and culpera already in the refugium. Any other to consider or should I get another batch of these.

The clowns, anemones and Montipora are doing well and the anemones are moving about finding places after sitting on the back wall of the tank since they split. They have opened up a lot more.

Skimmer is working nicely but producing a lot of wet skimmate which I cannot seem to get to go dry.

Any other options to try would be appreciated as I want to get this under control and gone (which I know is going to take some time).

Thanks in advance.
 

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Ok, this has been tested by quite a few aquarists, even the great Mark of Mel Ev's Reef. Fear not that you have an Anemone, this will not harm it. Kill the lights for 3 days. Only turn on a nearby light by the tank when feeding. Keep your skimmer cleaned out, because on the thrid day, it will fill with all the dead cyano garbage. This will take it out of the tank, not just hide it, but kill it. Hopefully you don't have the resilient cyano that lingers longer than the 3 days. Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for that, will clean the skimmer in the morning and then start a 3 day period of darkness.

I had considered that but wasnt sure if it was effective or not. I did have a look at the bulbs and I am going to replace them as well as am not convinced the 10k's are dying.

Will definitely keep you posted as to how well it works. Thanks Again
 

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In the past, I have addressed cyano in my FOWLRs with an increase in circulation, up-grades to protein skimming, manual removal of cyano during water changes and (difficult for me, perhaps impossible for reef keepers) removal of detritus especially beneath rockwork and substrate and any "dead" zone, and finally rather frequent rearrangement of return nozzles and positioning of propeller pumps.

I realize that a tank devoid of corals such as mine may permit me to do some things that would be contra-indicated in a tank with sessile invertebrates, but if any of these things are of use, great.

I also use chemi-clean as a solution of last resort. It works, and as far as I know has never harmed anything, but it feels somewhat like cheating (for lack of a better word). I feel like it merely corrects what I should have kept in check all along with my maintenance. Rather than keep buying dangerous and expensive "organic sludge oxidizers" I need to find ways to prevent the build-up of "organic sludge" in the first place so that cyano can't get a foothold.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OK, 3 days of darkness not including the fire and brimestone, although there is a thunderstorm going on at the time of writing this, begins now.

I tested the cal, alk and Magnesium levels this morning and may have hit a nail. I discovered the magnesium test kit I have been using is 2 years out of date! I happen to have a salifret kit that I havent used which is brand new (another freebie), tested the levels with that and found the magnesium level to be below 1000ppm. Dosed it up again and will test later on my way to work.

Noticed as well as I was cleaning some cyano out this morning that one of my 10k bulbs seems to be dying, was going to replace all 4 bulbs anyway and get ATI bulbs as my LFS has a sale on them at the moment.

Hopefully with the darkness and levels getting back to normal it will rid the cyano.

Will keep everyone informed in a few days time.
 
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