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Discussion Starter #1
Rec'd a 75g. Here we go want to use canister filter.. please give me feedback on best one . I have a marineland c220 but on reading up they tend to leak.....?
 

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I would get the Eheim 2215 it's rated for 92g. The Marineland c220 is only rated for 55g.
 

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Canisters filters are not the best idea for saltwater tanks unless you only want to use it for carbon.

Why do you want a canister specifically?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I know that about the. C220. I have that on my 29g. Sorry for got that part.. i will look up the one you r talking about thanks for the suggestion.
 

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I have a Eheim Ecco Pro 2034 which is good for 22-44 imp gal. its been running for 4 years and is easy to strip down clean and re-prime. Its very quiet and does a good job. just be careful of the ceramic pin in the impeller, I broke mine and a replacement took about a week.
The 2036 would be OK for 42-80 US gal www.eheim.be
 

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I have a Eheim Ecco Pro 2034 which is good for 22-44 imp gal. its been running for 4 years and is easy to strip down clean and re-prime. Its very quiet and does a good job. just be careful of the ceramic pin in the impeller, I broke mine and a replacement took about a week.
The 2036 would be OK for 42-80 US gal www.eheim.be
 

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The best option is 1.5 lbs (per gallon) of live rock, 4"-6" deep sand bed and a quality protein skimmer. This is called the Berlin Method and has been the best form of filtration for a marine tank for quite some years now. A canister filter will trap detritus and result in a nitrate & phosphate spike that will result in nuisance algae and Alkalinity swings that could be detrimental to livestock.
 

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So no reguim nothing else. Wouldn't you need to do water changes often?
Water changes are a method for reducing nitrates in home aquaria. I do regular water changes in my FW tank because it is a basic tank with no plants to eat up excess nutrients.

In Marine aquaria, the most I ever do is change 5-10% every other week to replace trace elements. And if I skip a WC, no harm, no foul. The 1.5-2 lbs of Live Rock plus the 4-6" Deep Sand Bed harbor an anaerobic bacteria that completes the nitrogen cycle and turns unwanted Nitrates into Nitrogen Gas that leaves the system naturally. The Protein Skimmer removes any Dissolved Organic Compounds (fish waste) before they have a chance to break down into Nitrates and Phosphates.

So large, regular water changes are not really needed, and canister filters are (by sheer function, end result of a canister filter is nitrates) a detriment to a Marine system.
 

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You can run a canister filter for GFO, Seachem or Purigen for removing items from the water column. Don't run any filter media. The rock when provided in the correct amounts, has bacteria necessary to filter your tank for you. No worries, if it wasnt the case I would have one on my 240g tank, but I don't have one, because they don't help. Make sure you invest in a top of the line skimmer, as this is the first line of defense here, and your best piece of equipment.
And eventually running a Sump/Fuge where you don't have to do water changes much. I only do them 2 times a year.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What does GFO mean? Sorry newbie..... I have a canister on my 29g so remove the media? What brand of skimmer do you like. Would I put the Skimmer
on when i set the 75g up or later?
 

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Yea, remove the media from the filter, its of no use to you.
GFO= Granular Ferric Oxide. It will remove Phosphates for you.
Are we going with a HOB Skimmer for the 75g? And yes, you definately need one for that tank.
Reef Octopus
SWC
E-Shopps
Del-Tec
Are very good Protein Skimmers.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I am seriously considering it but have no one local that believes in that system so I will be asking you a lot probably....... Dont know anything about skimmers persay. So will need help with that also. We just ordered the stand plan to do the basic to get it running to start cycling.
 
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