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Discussion Starter #1
The LFS had this mis marked as water sprite, and the person who helped me didn't know much about it.


This is full tank pic. I want to put more vegetation along the back of the tank, and some ground cover type plant in front of the long piece of driftwood as well as in front of the bigger piece of driftwood. Any suggestions on plants? I would like some green and some with color if possible. I will be getting a CFL 65watt light later this week so I would put my WPG around 3 (based on CFL being 35% more light per watt than traditional lights)
 

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Hi.

Any close-up pic? Looks like a hygrophila to me otherwise.:dunno:
 

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Looks like Alternanthera reineckii to me.:) Close to Hygro but even closer to being Alternanthera.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Blue said:
Looks like Alternanthera reineckii to me.:) Close to Hygro but even closer to being Alternanthera.:)
Any suggestions on what else to add to the tank with about a 3WPG light source?

BTW Blue...THANKS for all your help so far :thankyou: :yourock:
 

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3 wpg is great for plants requiring high light. Riccia fluitans if tied on a rock with a mesh can serve as a lawn. Pruning can get messy though. Cabomba caroliana are good plants as their bushy appearance will give the fish plenty of area to hide. I had praecox rainbows spawned on a thicket of Cabombas before. None of the eggs last though because I had pencilfish and kuhli loaches consuming them after they fall.:)

I'll leave the rest to the others as I can't think any more plants that will do well in a high lighted tank other than the Riccia and Cabomba.:mrgreen: If you like fast-growing plants, Elodea densa are one of those.:)

Good luck.:)
 

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Blue said:
Looks like Alternanthera reineckii to me.:) Close to Hygro but even closer to being Alternanthera.:)
Completely agree....

Just to name a few that you can check into.... :)

Lobelia cardinalis 'dwarf'
Bacopa sp. 'Colorata'
Didiplis diandra
Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig'
Limnophila aromatica
Ludwigia repens
Rotala macrandra
Rotala rotundifolia
Rotala sp. 'Colorata'
Rotala wallichii
Echinodorus bleheri 'compacta'
Hydrocotyle verticillata
Crypt Parva
Ammania senegalensis
 

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Will second Ludwigia repens and I would add:
Any crypt
Pearlweed
Stargrass

I know might have already been suggested but I am terrible with their technical names

One question, are you injecting CO2? If you are then a clover or HC would be a nice addition as well as Echinodorus Tennelus, I think, Lone knows which one I am talking about. He has it in his tanks and it is a really cool ground cover that is almost grassy in look but grows faster and better then micro swords.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
fish_4_all said:
Will second Ludwigia repens and I would add:
Any crypt
Pearlweed
Stargrass

I know might have already been suggested but I am terrible with their technical names

One question, are you injecting CO2? If you are then a clover or HC would be a nice addition as well as Echinodorus Tennelus, I think, Lone knows which one I am talking about. He has it in his tanks and it is a really cool ground cover that is almost grassy in look but grows faster and better then micro swords.
Nope not injecting CO2 and would like to avoid it if possible, I want to get to a moderate planting. Good balance of open water and plants. At what point would I have to start CO2?
 

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ttiger72 said:
At what point would I have to start CO2?
You actually have a choice whether you like to operate it or not.:) Obviously, high lighting and CO2 when combined makes plants grow at a very fast rate but this also makes them used up all nutrients fast which is why you have to dose the ferts more often. Also more expensive than a low-tech where you don't deal with CO2 at all other than just dosing ferts with the plants fluorishing. Low-tech is mostly for plants that are undemanding like the Elodea densa, Javan fern, Javan moss, etc.

Be careful when dosing CO2. A high level will eventually kill the fish in a few hours. In this case, I usually do a big water change and switch on the airpumps to powerful mode. It hasn't happened since last year though.:)

The choice is up to you whether you like to see lots of plants grow at a fast rate or not.:) Fast growth or not, it doesn't matter.:) Your plants will still fluorish and grow with or without CO2 injection.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Blue, all of you have been very helpful for a newbie trying to get started. I greatly appreciate all the advice you guys have given me!
 

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Actually, anything above 2.5w/g should have CO2. If you don't, you are going to run into some algae issues, and the only way to eliminate it is CO2. BBA is a big one for that, loves low and fluctuating CO2 levels, and no CO2 as well. If the tank is ssmaller, then you can use Flourish Excel instead, as it's a carbon suppliment.

As for being careful with CO2, not really necessary IMO. I run my CO2 at 50ppm-78ppm regularly. The only time you need to be concerned is if it's running up around 100ppm and higher. Currently I'm running my 29G right around 50ppm.

Lastly, in very moderately to heavily planted tanks, you SHOULD run an air bubbler at night. Or anything that will give more surface aggitation. Plants produce O2 during the day, but take it in at night. I've lost fish due to suffocating, I woke up and half the fish dead and the other half gasping at the surface. Within 10 minutes after adding an airstone, all was normal and had to fish out the dead fish. And it included 5 Roseline sharks. :(

So, remember, plants PRODUCE O2 during the day, and USE O2 at night. The more plants you have, the more O2 that get's stripped from the water.
 

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http://woo.gotdns.com/Aquarium/Lighting.htm

Anyhting on the chart for your tank that is high light needs to have CO2 to help control algae. I don't know if your tank makes the chart or not. I have 3.3 w/g gallon over my 10 gallon tanks and I do not need CO2, I use Excel. I am still under moderate light though. I still have plant growth beyond belief and i run an airstone 24/7.

Remember that if you don't inject CO2, an airstone is needed to help both CO2 and O2 replenish itself because the plants will suffer without it and the nautrual balance will drop without some good surface agitation.

Try it without it at your light levels just make sure to do two things. Keep up with your water changes and make sure your plants have all the nutrients they need or algae will be the result, even in lower light tanks.

Wolf is roght, CO2 will result some awesome growth but you really have to do a lot to keep your dosing right to prevent massive amounts of algae. Keep us posted and we will help you work the tank the best we can the way you want to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Lonewolfblue said:
Actually, anything above 2.5w/g should have CO2. If you don't, you are going to run into some algae issues, and the only way to eliminate it is CO2. BBA is a big one for that, loves low and fluctuating CO2 levels, and no CO2 as well. If the tank is ssmaller, then you can use Flourish Excel instead, as it's a carbon suppliment.

As for being careful with CO2, not really necessary IMO. I run my CO2 at 50ppm-78ppm regularly. The only time you need to be concerned is if it's running up around 100ppm and higher. Currently I'm running my 29G right around 50ppm.

Lastly, in very moderately to heavily planted tanks, you SHOULD run an air bubbler at night. Or anything that will give more surface aggitation. Plants produce O2 during the day, but take it in at night. I've lost fish due to suffocating, I woke up and half the fish dead and the other half gasping at the surface. Within 10 minutes after adding an airstone, all was normal and had to fish out the dead fish. And it included 5 Roseline sharks. :(

So, remember, plants PRODUCE O2 during the day, and USE O2 at night. The more plants you have, the more O2 that get's stripped from the water.
Hi Lonewolf...can you recommend a system? I don't want to have to have a CO2 tank and regulators. Would something like this work in a 29G tank?
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=14711&inm=1&N=2004+113779+2032
Also, is my WPG calculation correct at around 3 with a 65W CFL? Or would I be okay using Flourish Excel?
 

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Actually, I don't recommend things like that for anything above 15G. You get above that tank size and you start getting CO2 fluctuations. Not a good thing, unless you run more than one together.

For the 29G, I would just purchase Flourish Excel. It's much easier, and you don't have to worry about fluctuations, and then run an airstone or other surface aggitation to help keeo O2 and CO2 at ambient levels. I personally like just using a small powerhead at the surface pointed slightly up to give surface aggitation, rather than an airstone. Plus it circulates the gases when they enter the water.

Lastly, there are a couple of plants to stay away from if you do use Excel, and they are anacharis and vals. The Excel will make them melt. Other than that, no other problems....

Edit:
For the 65W CF, with it being more intense than a regular 65W florescent, it's about 2.9w/g. I guage CF as approx. 1.3x the regular florescent, so 65x1.3/29=2.9, approx. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Lonewolf. Again this board is great, I have gotten such great advice and hints I may wind up with an incredible tank instead of just a tank. :thumbsup:
 
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