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Oh okay, well, glad the LFS came around a little even if it's just a small thing.

Fertilizer sand? Do you have something in mind for that?

You can use regular sand (some sands are unsafe so go with pet store sand). You can use Play Sand, I'm not sure what you have around you for stores but if you have some sort of home improvement store, they will likely have play sand or pool filter sand. The only issue with these sands is that you have to rinse them like there is no tomorrow, rinse, rinse, rinse! If you look up youtube videos on how to wash play sand for aquarium, you'll probably get some videos on how to do that. The good thing about sand meant for the aquarium is that it's usually fairly clean and only needs one rinse before it goes into the aquarium.

DO NOT BUY AFRICAN SAND or sand that boosts your pH level. Always read the package before you buy it so you don't buy the wrong thing. African Cichlid sand is meant to boost your pH waaaayyy up to 8.4 or so and if you have high pH already, it's not going to help you very much and will make it hard on your guppies. Guppies do like hard water and high pH levels, but not that high. So just make sure it just says Aquarium Sand.

I mix my sand and something called FloraMax, it says "Enhanced Substrate" but it doesn't have like plant fertilizer in it, it's just clay (as most enhanced substrates are) and is good for plant roots, but it doesn't fertilize plants. So don't get mixed up in thinking that enhanced substrate is better, it's nice to have but it's not necessarily better.
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Any problem with finer gravel? The problem i have is my roots come easily lose but the plants gravel everything is fine.
One of the stores suggested a layer of some gravel (called it fertilers sand). This is when i went to go look for fertilers
 

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Nope, as long as you keep the substrate under 3 inches in any spot, you're all set! Nothing bad will happen :) Though, it's still good to poke the gravel/move it around a bit every now and then if you don't run a gravel siphon through it to clean it. You might get some air bubbles but unless they smell absolutely terrible, there's nothing to worry about.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
And what do i need to create java moss carpet also how?

I was thinking to use the square tiles but i dont know where to get it. Any other way to plant moss?
 

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Usually you tie it to something, so you can tie it to some medium-ish sized rocks and have it grow like that and trim when needed. You can use Craft Mesh from craft stores, that's what most of use. You can sandwich the moss between two sheets and have it grow up from there. You'll have to anchor the mesh down somehow with a large rock or something or wedge it in there somehow. Google moss carpet or moss wall and that should give you some ideas.
 

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Plastic mesh, yes. Just not metal mesh. Also, make sure it's something new and hasn't been sprayed with chemicals. If it's regular craft mesh then you can use it but if it's something else then I'd give it some good rinses under some hot water if you can.
 

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Discussion Starter #188
Plastic mesh, yes. Just not metal mesh. Also, make sure it's something new and hasn't been sprayed with chemicals. If it's regular craft mesh then you can use it but if it's something else then I'd give it some good rinses under some hot water if you can.
Ill first look at the aquarium shop if they have something like that before going to a craft shop. At least now I lnow what to look at
 

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Discussion Starter #189
It has been a week now that the tank has been in the new location bur now i have a problem with little to no pearling.
Is that a problem?
 

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You shouldn't have pearling unless you are running a full CO2 system. So no, no problem at all :)
 

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Discussion Starter #191
Qhen my tank were in the sun. Pearling happen daily with the vallisneria and rotala and anubias. But now only the anubias realise bubbles and its one or two. Not like a string of bubbles.
I thought i need stronger light (i currently have 20watt T8 running 5 to 6 hours a day).

My new anubias leaf isn't as strong as the rest and is a bit discolor\brown
 

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Have you tried rubbing the leaf? It may just be brown algae on it.

It likely wasn't real pearling, it doesn't happen until you have CO2. What you saw was air being trapped under the plant and it releasing slowly, that happens pretty often sometimes. Some of my tanks do it too. But Anubias don't really pearl in the first place anyway.

Do you know the Kelvin rating of the bulb? That's the important part. The wattage tells me nothing. You can slowly increase your light time by an hour or half an hour a day if you like. You may get algae but you can find a nice balanced spot, probably around 8 hours is a good time for your plants. It's an experiment, your plants might like more or less, so you can try that. If you find you have more algae then you should cut back again or stay at that time.
 

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Discussion Starter #193
Yeah im doing that now currently runing7 hours a day gor this week. No the leaf is brown and slightly brittle but maybe it gets stronger with time and growth. I don't think the kelvin rating was high due to the price of the light and at the time i didn't have plants. Im looking to get a 55 watt light with kelvin rating of 5500/5400 not sure.

At the bottom near the substrate green spot algea appeared today should i stay with 6 hours?
 

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The Anubias look okay, how tight did you tie them to the wood? I would just leave the plants alone for now and let them grow some before fiddling with trimming and all. Ideally, when you get a new plant, you're supposed to leave it alone for 6 weeks. After the first 6 weeks, you can trim or move if needed and then leave alone for another 6 weeks and by then the plant has acclimated fully to your tank and you can do anything to it.

What kind of green algae is it? Is it hard to scrape off or soft like and come off easy? You're going to get algae no matter what you do and if you get a better light, that means more algae. The way to combat that is to have faster growing plants in the tank so they can out-compete the algae for food. Regardless, every fish keeper will get algae though, it's just natural. You will have to manually remove some of it. You can use an algae scrubber pad or your fingers if it's soft enough. Never use sponges meant for the kitchen though!! They have chemicals in them which can harm your fish!

The val's look great though!!
 

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Discussion Starter #196
The Anubias look okay, how tight did you tie them to the wood? I would just leave the plants alone for now and let them grow some before fiddling with trimming and all. Ideally, when you get a new plant, you're supposed to leave it alone for 6 weeks. After the first 6 weeks, you can trim or move if needed and then leave alone for another 6 weeks and by then the plant has acclimated fully to your tank and you can do anything to it.

What kind of green algae is it? Is it hard to scrape off or soft like and come off easy? You're going to get algae no matter what you do and if you get a better light, that means more algae. The way to combat that is to have faster growing plants in the tank so they can out-compete the algae for food. Regardless, every fish keeper will get algae though, it's just natural. You will have to manually remove some of it. You can use an algae scrubber pad or your fingers if it's soft enough. Never use sponges meant for the kitchen though!! They have chemicals in them which can harm your fish!

The val's look great though!!
They losely tied and the roots growing nicly into cracks and creeks of the driftwood. Only problem is I moved the driftwood to the middle of the tank so i think that is the problem. I will leave all my plants for 2 months.

For the algae i use a kitchen sponge but it is without chemicals. Been using the same sponge for 5/6 months. Any suggestions on lighting (can I go with 8 hours)? (algae is soft).
 

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Even if the sponge doesn't say it has chemicals in it, they all do, it's to help with keeping away mildew and mold growth on them.

For lighting, if you want to go 8 hours that's fine, you just may need to remove a little more algae when it comes up. If you want better growth, go with a bulb that is Daylight. The kelvin rating should be 5,500 or better; 6,500K is true 'daylight' light. Again, you'll have a little more algae until you can find a good balance with hours and plants.

I doubt that moving the driftwood caused any harm to the Anubias. As long as the plant is growing new roots and leaves like you say, you're in good shape! Some old leaves may fall off/die, but that's normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #198
Okay. Im looking on getting 5500k and run it 6hours. I was looking for the 6500k but couldnt get T8 fitting.
I'll throw the sponges away and get a scrub since it's not that expensive. Thank you.

I ran this week 7 hours and got little algea. Will run one more week 7 hours just to see
 

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Discussion Starter #199 (Edited)
My leaves are turning yellow than brown. Is it the light intensity?

I dose fertilizer every 2nd week (1drop after water change (as instructed)) but my Hygrophila species are turning from yellow to brown (one of the plants) and the new leaves turned all brown.
 

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You should be dosing every week, not every other. I would even bump it up to twice a week if the plants aren't doing as well. So dose on Saturday and Wednesday or something like that (those are just the days I do :)). It doesn't have to be after a water change either, wasn't sure if that's what you thought or not, it can be any time.

But yes, going yellow to brown means a nutrient deficiency of some type. Bumping up ferts is the first step, if that doesn't help then you can look at getting a new light. How long have you had your light? Ideally, you're supposed to replace Fluorescent's after 6 months since they dim and lose intensity; you might not notice but the plants will.
 
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