[bob reed]

New guy so new dumb question. I have looked here and many other places on the net in the last several hours but I can not get a good answer. I have a API Freshwater Master test kit and a 15 gallon tank.

Here is my question.
There are 2 fish in the tank ( I did not know any better) and I did a 100% water change on the 6th. The kit tests for Ammonia, Ph, Highrange Ph, Nitrite, Nitrate and here are the levels for the last 2 days.
For the 7th
Ammonia = .25
PH = 7.8
Highrange Ph = 8,4
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 0

For the 8th (today)
Ammonia = .30
PH = 7.8
Highrange Ph = 8.2
Nitrite = .05
Nitrate = 2.5

Now I am kind of guessing as a couple of these are in between colors. So where do I stand? What numbers are important? I know Ammonia is very bad. If this is posted here I am sorry I am still learning the site and looking and with the site not loading right it is a little harder.

 

[sandybottom]

once the tank is cycled you will want the test to read
ammo-0
nitrite-0
nitrate-less than 40ppm,ideally 0-20ppm
ph-stable
the ph will depend on your water supply and whether you are changing it for your stock. while you are cycling your tank,you want to do water changes or dose prime accordingly.prime can detoxify up to 1ppm ammonia.when you test your water and see .25 ammo.you will want to dose the tank at 2 drops/gallon.when it gets higher,say .50 to 1ppm i usually do a 50% waterchange.once you start seeing nitrites you will want to do the same.you may have to dose daily.you will have to test daily. once ammo and nitrites show at 0 and you show some nitrates,your tank is cycled.you will still have to watch your parameters for a while.

 

[bob reed]

Ok since I do not have that chemical, I just changed out 1/3 of the water in the tank and will check the levels again in a bit. Thanks for your reply!

 

[Flint]

I agree with sandy bottom. What two fish do you have?

 

[bob reed]

I agree with sandy bottom. What two fish do you have?

I have a Black Tetra and what I was told was a (right from my receipt) Ancistris Pleco.

 

[Flint]

I suggest you return both until you're done cycling. Tetras are shoaling fish and need to be with 6 or more of their kind. I'd have to see a pic of the pleco to help ID him. If it's a common, it'll get waaay too large for your tank.

 

[sandybottom]

try to get some prime if you can.it will keep your fish safe through the cycling progress. it detoxifies ammonia,nitrite and nitrate.it is made by a company called seachem. you dose at 2 drops/gallon,so it lasts a long time.i have 5 tanks and my 8.5oz bottle has lasted over a year.

 

[bob reed]

I suggest you return both until you're done cycling. Tetras are shoaling fish and need to be with 6 or more of their kind. I'd have to see a pic of the pleco to help ID him. If it's a common, it'll get waaay too large for your tank.

Well the Tetras is not a new fish in fact I have had him for over 4 years the "pleco" I do not think is a Pleco at all and I was told he would not get over 2 1/2" long and for what I paid for him I would think that is true.

 

[sandybottom]

going by the name it is a bushy/bristlenose pleco.it wil get around 5".

 

[Flint]

Common plecos get 3' and are $3 locally. What you paid means nothing compared to adult size. I suggest getting a large bottle of Tetra Safe Start and adding the whole thing along with 5 more tetras. And returning the pleco.

 

[bob reed]

going by the name it is a bushy/bristlenose pleco.it wil get around 5".

Well getting a shot of him right now will be almost impossible but I will see what I can do. I may be wrong on the name of the other fish as well there is a pic of him in my aquarium list

 

[sandybottom]

for some reason ,that part of the forum is not working.

 

[Flint]

The other fish is definately a black skirt tetra.

 

[bob reed]

Sandybottom that is what I came up with as well. I do not have anyway of getting any of those chemicals today so I have done a 1/3 water change. Best I can do for now. My "old" fish has lived though much worse then this.
Flint, the place I shop has a no return policy on livestock. Will just have to build a bigger tank... Thanks for all your replies folks!

 

[rsskylight04]

All readings are imporatant, but for your newly-set up tank, you will want to keep an extra close eye on ammonia, nitrite, and nitrAte. The capital A is to distinguish nitrite ( with an "I") from nitrate ( with an "a").

Ammonia is toxic to fish over 0.5
Nirite is very toxic to fish over0.25
NitrAte is less harmful, but can kill fish if allowed to accumulate. Most keepers try to keep nitrate under 80.

The beautiful thing about fishtanks is that naturaly occurring bacteria can process the two more toxic bio products ( ammonia and nitrite) into nitrAte. NitrAte is still harmfull, but much less so and it is easily controlled with regularly scheduled waterchanges.

First step in establishing a stable system is to introduce ammonia into the tank water. I recommend cycling with no fish in the tank because you dont have to change water and you can get your ammonia level higher if there are no fish to worry about. You have fish in already, so just feeding them will produce a constant supply of ammonia. Once ammonia levels rise, your tank should become colonized by bacteria that eat the ammonia and produce nitrite. So your test readings should indicate a rise in ammonia first, then a spike in nitrite, followedy lowering ammonia levels. That should occur over the course of a week or two. Don't forget that both ammonia and nitrite are very dangerous to fish so DO NOT allow these levels to get too high; change as much water as needed to keep both at or under 1.0 at all times. I use a series of 25% water changes rather than one big one, not as efficient but I belive it helps to not shock the fish or biofilter.
Once your tank is producing nitrite, it can become colonized by another type of baceria that eats the nitrite and produces nitrAte. When you start producing nitrAte, your cycle is almost complete. Last step is to allow your bacteria colonies TIME to grow. Large healthy bacteria colonies in a mature, stable tank process ammonia and nitrite so efficiently that your test readings will be 0,0. You will measure steadily increasing nitrate rather than aammonia and nitrite. Might take a month or two to get to that stage.
Your tank is going to have unstable water chemistry for a couple( few) weeks so be ready to change out water when nitrite and ammonia spike. You will need to get a quality dechorinator (SeaChem Prime) to treat your tapwater.
Good luck!