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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what are the most effective ways to get rid of algae?

she has tried algaecide, didnt work..

covered the tank with black blanket for three days to minimize light and algae growth...didnt work...

she does water changes every day...doesnt work...

it either stays the same or gets worse...what is the solution?

tank stats are normal...at the time of algae growth the ammonia was very high...

bri
 

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Any chance of a pic? What kind of algae is that?
There are various types of algae in which removal can be quite different.
 

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I've found that snails are a blessing. :wink: Snails are freebies with any live plant purchase, no matter how well you think you shake them off. Anyway, it seems that the tanks with the most snails have less of the hard to remove algae (green to black stuff that grows on rocks and glass). (The stringy stuff I remove by hand, and is only prevalent in one of my tanks.....not sure why, perhaps because of the lighting)

I have two types of snails:
(1) cornet (like a triangle?) shaped snails that live in the substrate and will be all over the glass during the night, I don't know if they really eat the algae? I think they break down the waste though.
(2) and then the ram's horn shaped-shell snails -- they love algae and I believe they help keep the water sparkling clear!

When my snails die off, I know there is a problem with the tank, and algae will start becoming a problem. I could be off about how useful they are, but it seems that a tank with the ram horn snails requires less maintenance. Not sure if you want to introduce them to your tank, as they will certainly multiply and I will hand pick them out - the ram horn one's don't multiply nearly as fast as the cornet shaped ones.

:idea: Other thing to consider is how much light the tank is getting -- make sure you get the light hooked up to a timer so the tank doesn't get excessive periods of light a day.
 

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It depends on the algae. Some fish like Otos, certain plecos (Brisstlenose for example), farlowellas (get big), Cherry barbs, Siamese Algae Eaters, Some shrimp, snails, etc. Most will not eat all types of algae.

The black out method willl work, but the tanks need to be blacked out for at least a week.

Plants can work, but it can be a delicate balance. Too many plants and not enough of one nutrient can kill plants, thus, creating more nitrates.

Lighting can also effect the growth. Too much from the tank lights and/or nearby light from windows can also promote algae growth.

Not enough gravel cleaning/water changes will promote algae growth. This is becuase if you have a good filtration and a well established tank with lots of nitrifying bacteria, the ammonia and nitrITES may not rise, but the nitRATES can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
none of these seem to be the problem, she does frequent water changes, as i stated...and the tank is NOT near a window...it is a very dark room...light stays on for about 8 hours a day, and the black out method did NOT work.

the algae is not growing on anything, it is making the water green and cloudy. i do not think that buying another fish at this point would be effective since her tank is most likely overstocked as it is. she has 3 platys, 1 swordtail, 2 danios, a tiger barb and 6 baby mollies. oh....and its a 10 gallon tank.

bri
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
no...she had live plants the first time she set up a tank but they (like the fish) kept dying so she gave up. she wont do live plants.
 
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ok, thats the only thing I could think of would be dead plant matter in the tank we had the same problem water turning cloudy and green turns out it was the plant matter. Did she clean the gravel really well after she took the plants out, there might be some left in the gravel causing the problem. Sorry if its not much of a help. I havent had to deal with algae much.
 

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Ahh. the dreaded green water. GW is an algae bloom. Typical causes is excessive nutrients, but overfeeding, too much light, not enough water changes/gravel cleaning,

Cures:
1. UV filter or Diatom filter - Diatom filter is rather messy and can only be run for several hours. UV can be run 24/7/356 if needed.
2. Reduce the amount of feedings
3. Reduce amount of light the tank is exposed to. If the lights are on for 12 hours, try reducing to maybe like 10 hours
4. Perform more frequent gravel cleaning/water changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
UV filter? can be placed right into a regular filter? or is this a separate mechanism?

bri
 

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80$ for up to 125gal tank doesnt seem too bad to me if it really works....
 

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I have that same UV, and it works like a charm. You just need the right water flow going through it. I have mine hooked up to maxi-jet 400 power head.
 

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UV or ultraviolet is best used to allow for the best dwell time (amount of time the water makes contact with the light). Specific UVs have a manufacturer rating regarding the dwell time, depending on the specific need.

For example..
If you have an Eheim Pro II 2126 canister filter, which has a manufacturer flow rate of 250 GPH. According to Coralife's website, the instructions (page 5) state the following...

9 watt - 55 GPH to eliminate parasites, 121 GPH to eliminate algae, 253 to eliminate bacteria

18 watt - 110 GPH to eliminate parasites, 240 GPH to eliminate algae, 500 to eliminate bacteria

36 watt - 290 GPH to eliminate parasites, 680 GPH to eliminate algae, 1550 to eliminate bacteria
You want the best dwell time (length of time the water runs through the UV lamp) for your filter. So if your main purpose is to eliminate algae, then the 18 watt is sufficient if connected to the Eheim Pro II 2026 filter. Otherwise, you can connect a bigger UV, such as the 36 watt to the canister OR connect to a seperate powerhead to the UV filter.

I also use a UV and connect it to a powerhead, so I can easily transfer the UV to any tank having problems with algae or if I want to eleminate parasites.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i need a cheaper alternative...also joe, its not algae growing on the glass, its a bloom in the water makin it all green and cloudy

bri
 

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Green Floating Algae
-caused by excessive lighting and high nitrates and phosphates
You'll need a blackout from 3 days to a week by covering your whole tank and not allow any penetration of light.
UV sterilizers will also work. And so will a bunch of daphnia(if your tank has no fish).

Pls take note, green floating algae can kill your fish by consuming at night the oxygen thus suffocating the fish. Not only that, if the algae die, much CO2 will be released killing the fish.
 

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i had that problem once- used blackout which helped for a while but then didnt- so i carried on regular water change 10 gals every 5 days, lighting 5 hours a day on a timer- irregular lighting can cause this, and then the thing that turned it around was peat extract a capful for evey 5 gal water change- o yeah and a cap of bacteria start an hour after every water change.
Then it cleared.

Water changes can kill off the bacteria in your filter, so if the tank is not mature it might be struggling to settle. Try those 2 treatments, its cheap enough with no risk.
 

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I've heard that the algae blooms which are evidenced by green water and not just algae on the glass of the tank, will just continue if you keep changing the water. I remember having green water in the past and don't recall what I did about it unfortunately. Eventually the problem clears itself. Keep the lights low, only a few hours each day, and try some live plants.
 
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