Zaitmi's 30 Gallon Build - Page 37 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #361 of 363 Old 06-25-2010, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
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pardon, i am sorry :(

i didnt understood what r u trying to say? can u just elaborate please?

now my tank is dark for 3 days i am ruinning rowaphos also to get rid of diatoms (brown dusty muddy hair algae).

1 Electric Blue Damsel
1 Percula Clownfish
1 Red Legged Hermit Crab

Last edited by zaitmi; 06-25-2010 at 05:33 AM.
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post #362 of 363 Old 06-27-2010, 03:53 AM
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What I was saying is that 12dkh is a bit higher than I would go. Your water chemistry will alter regularly on its own, regardless of what you do. Water chemistry is ever changing. By taking it up to 12 dkh you are just above the high end, and if it alters on its own it may go too high, which is going to cause other issues.

Personally, if you want my opinion, I think you should stop trying to tweak things so much and let that poor tank stabilize on its own for a while. In all this time you have not done that yet. I have had a lot of marine tanks in my life, and was my job to care for the whole marine system at the store for years (over 100 tanks) and never have I found a reason to do as much "adjusting" as you have found with your 1 tank. Constantly adjusting your water chemistry is stressful for the fish and leaves for a tank that will never really stabilize.

You know you need to add calcium, but once you know how much to add to keep it stable in the right range, then just back off and do that and let things settle... see where it goes. Nobody's water chemistry is "perfect" and if you try to make it perfect all you're going to do is make more of a mess.

The hair algae you are talking about is not a diatom algae. Its usually referred to as "mat algae" and is normal in a marine tank. If you're hoping to destroy and prevent it completely... good luck, it won't happen. If you have high phosphates then by all means use a phosphate remover, but phosphates are not the only thing that feed that type of algae. That algae feeds on nitrate, ammonia, and various other things in the water. A healthy marine tank is going to grow some type of algae. Also, most algae species are not going to be controlled simply by tweaking your water chemistry. Light plays a big part, but waste levels will always be present if you have live animals, so there will always be some amount of food for one species or other.

It would be a good idea if you would get used to the fact that to some degree, regular maintenance includes scraping algae from the tank glass. There is no way to avoid that.

How are your animals doing at this point? You do know that the more often you "adjust" your water chemistry the more you will stress the animals and likely make them sick? They can only take so much... and stable is sometimes more important than "perfect" when it comes to water params, as long as you're not dealing with toxins such as ammonia, nitrite, high nitrate...

Dawn Moneyhan
Aquatics Specialist/Nutritionist
Juneau, WI

Last edited by bettababy; 06-27-2010 at 03:55 AM. Reason: typo
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post #363 of 363 Old 07-30-2010, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Hello everybody,

long time no see.

hey guys i am dosing vodka from last 2 months and my parameters are very stable like nitrates and phosphates almost nil. I am happy.

but i worried about my dirty brown algae which was from beginning, i am using Rowa phos to remove them but till date not effective.

so i am going for a blackout for 7 days to remove brown dusty algae. hope it might work.

1 Electric Blue Damsel
1 Percula Clownfish
1 Red Legged Hermit Crab
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