Tank won't Cycle - Page 3 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #21 of 42 Old 01-21-2015, 01:19 PM
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I would put some fast growing live plants in there like anacharis.

my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: https://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #22 of 42 Old 01-21-2015, 03:51 PM
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I would put some fast growing live plants in there like anacharis.

my .02
agreed.that will help with the cycle.something i forgot to mention in my long post i last added..thank you for adding it :) plants helped me with my cycle no doubt.

a million molly varieties
dozens of tetras
rainbow shark
gold gourami
1 filter sponge named spongebob
platies of sorts
doubletail male-Rain
7 black mollies
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post #23 of 42 Old 01-21-2015, 07:00 PM
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That's actually where I stand with my tank right now. The LFS where I had the parameters tested basically said that it looks strange that the nitrites/nitrates are appropriate for a well-cycled tank, especially in regards to my water change cycle while ammonia stays high, and suggested planting the tank. I'm adding them slowly as the fish are doing okay for now, and i don't want to spike the pH too quickly. (Water is relatively soft.) It seems to be helping, but I'm thinking my pH test kit is a dud, so I'm afraid to add plants too quickly. Ammonia is finally receding, however, so that's a plus!
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post #24 of 42 Old 01-21-2015, 10:09 PM
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That's actually where I stand with my tank right now. The LFS where I had the parameters tested basically said that it looks strange that the nitrites/nitrates are appropriate for a well-cycled tank, especially in regards to my water change cycle while ammonia stays high, and suggested planting the tank. I'm adding them slowly as the fish are doing okay for now, and i don't want to spike the pH too quickly. (Water is relatively soft.) It seems to be helping, but I'm thinking my pH test kit is a dud, so I'm afraid to add plants too quickly. Ammonia is finally receding, however, so that's a plus!
do you have driftwood in your tank?and are you using tap water or filtered water?driftwood and filtered water will lower the Ph.i think adding a few seashells helps bring the Ph back up...anyone correct me if im wrong.i know theres a few things you can add to bring it back up or get the chemicals from a store that will do it.though im not much of a chemical person if it can be avoided..definitely dont want a sudden change in Ph though..fish wouldnt be too happy about that.i will say my discus and other fish didnt seem to be bothered.actually they are happier after i rescued them..

did anyone at your LFS say anything about how to fix it besides using chemicals?you could ask your LFS if you can either have or cheaply buy some already cycled media from their tanks.that will definitely help get the ball rolling

a million molly varieties
dozens of tetras
rainbow shark
gold gourami
1 filter sponge named spongebob
platies of sorts
doubletail male-Rain
7 black mollies
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post #25 of 42 Old 01-22-2015, 09:14 AM
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Would anyone who so blithely suggest plants please be so kind as to recommend lighting, fertilizers, mineral additives and the other maintenance procedures and criteria?

Get some Tetra Safestart and try that first.

Don't worry about Prime using up the O2. It doesn't use up that much. And, besides, that's what your bubbler or filter splash is for.

Last edited by Hallyx; 01-22-2015 at 09:16 AM.
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post #26 of 42 Old 01-22-2015, 10:35 AM
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Would anyone who so blithely suggest plants please be so kind as to recommend lighting, fertilizers, mineral additives and the other maintenance procedures and criteria?

Get some Tetra Safestart and try that first.

Don't worry about Prime using up the O2. It doesn't use up that much. And, besides, that's what your bubbler or filter splash is for.

If you get lights up to 1-2 watts per gallon you should be fine with plants. But even lower lighting just so you can see the fish will still allow the plants to consume co2 and ammonia. 6500K lights look the best IMHO.

As far as anything else the feeding the fish will provide the nutrients for the plants. Sure long run you may want to add some iron, but that is years later.

Most of the lights, fertz, co2 for plants is to have awesome show tanks the win competitions. But to just provide an nice looking tank and keep the fish healthy does not require all that.

See link in my signature.


my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: https://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #27 of 42 Old 01-22-2015, 11:55 AM
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did anyone at your LFS say anything about how to fix it besides using chemicals?you could ask your LFS if you can either have or cheaply buy some already cycled media from their tanks.that will definitely help get the ball rolling
I don't have any driftwood, shells, or anything else to affect the water parameters yet. I am using tap water from the same water supply as the preferred LFS, which they use with great success.

The pH isn't a problem needing fixing right now, the transition to planting is the suggestion they made to fix the ammonia levels. My problem with the pH is that all the other tests they made (which I have access to at home) matched my results, but the pH test they performed showed a neutral pH of 7, whereas mine reads well above 7.6. I'm going to replace the test soln. before I introduce any more than the first plant, just so there are no surprises while I'm blind to the alkalinity/acidity of the system.
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post #28 of 42 Old 01-23-2015, 09:05 AM
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Wait what? Why would you wait on the plants, from my experience they go in as soon as possable.... Not sure what your waiting for??? I always plant on the first fill (dirt, sand, and gravel all the same) never killed a plant doing this method...... I would like to also say I'm buying the advanced plants, so I am pretty sure you can keep the begginer plants alive.

Look at my dwarf chichlid tank in the profile, just planted 2 weeks ago so the plants are just getting established......

It's not as hard to grow plants as you might think, they don't need perfect conditions. Seems like you have this down for the most part. Time to start makeing your masterpiece :)
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post #29 of 42 Old 01-24-2015, 05:36 PM
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really?im beginning to wonder if it has something to do with your tap.are you still using tap water?id hate to have you start again especially its been what nearly two months already.you really need some seeded material to see if that will help jump start the beneficial bacteria.even my 10 gallon i set up for my betta i put my fish in rite away and let the ammonia build up just enough and added rocks and artificial plants from my large tank thats been running for about a year and a half.

you can still save the guppy by putting them in a hospital tank like a 1 gallon tank with an air stone and clean the water every other day.keeping it in a low busy area where not any people walk and such if it is sick.but fresh water is the best cure for any fish.i would get purified water for it.

im baffled by your tank not cycling.can you uploading any pictures and or videos of the full setup so i can see how things are including the temp as well as the filter displacement and everything?

wish i was able to give you some of my media thats already got the BB on it..but if i was to mail it.it would be dead by the time it got to you especially hitting the cold weather.

also inform me of all the readings...nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, temp and such...lets see what exactly we have here.im now determined to get this tank cycled ;)
Hi,

Unfortunately I don't have easy access to too much purified water.

The little guppy (lyre tail) didn't make it. The other larger guppy and 2 danio glofish are doing ok so far.

I did 50% water changes for 4 days in a row and got the ammonia down to 0.5.
So current settings:
Temp 76 degrees
pH 7.4
Ammonia 0.5
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0

I am attaching a picture of my tank. (Note I have a charcol filter in the tank to help it get bacteria before I take out the old one - at least that is what I have always done over the last 1.5 years when there were bacteria in the tank). The plants are all fake.

Keep in mind this is after adding 3 bottles of safestart over almost 2 months now.

I was wondering if my town might be hyperchlorinating the water and overwhemling my conditioner. I used a pool chlorine tester and it came back as zero from the tank (not sure it translates over to a tank but I would imagine so).

Feel like I am getting close to the end of what I can do for these little guys.
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Last edited by Juggernaut122; 01-24-2015 at 05:42 PM.
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post #30 of 42 Old 01-25-2015, 05:51 AM
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ok no more safestart, 3 bottles is alot. I think your ammonia might be caused by the stressed fish. so if the level of ammonia builds up knock it back down with a WC. I would just go down to prime or w/e your using to make your city water safe.
I think you should focus on low stress, rather than ammonia.
Your tank can be too clean!
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