beginner looking for advice - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #1 of 4 Old 01-02-2018, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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Cool beginner looking for advice

Hi, here is my story. Yesterday i got a 24inx12inx12in tank equipped with a sponge filter and a pump for bubbles. I put in 6 mollies (2 white, 2 black, one white with black spots and one with a light orange hue and black spots). two are 3in, 4 are 2.5in. in length. Then i added 4 1in neon tetras. And 2 1.5in guppies. And 1 tiny 1.5cm guppy(I think). No plants or anything else. i did use little dechlorination liquid in the water. I filled the tank 3/4with water. Everything is going well. I am feeding them dry blood worms.
Then I got a second tank 15inx8inx12in. Equipped it with a sponge filter and a bubble pump. Filled it with dechlorinated water up to 3/4th height. And stocked it with two 4in oranda goldfishes. I feed them dry blood worms. No plants or anything else.

Am i doing ok? what is the best way to keep the nitrite down? how often should i change the water? i think I prefer replacing a jug of water everyday? Is that a good strategy? And any other advice you all can pass on will be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much.
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post #2 of 4 Old 01-03-2018, 04:56 PM
IMHO way too many fish way too fast.

Best tank over and hope I'm wrong (again. LOL)

Meanwhile, take a look at the methods in my signature.

my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

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post #3 of 4 Old 01-03-2018, 05:43 PM
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beginner looking for advice

Yeah I agree, too much too fast. It’s very important that you understand the nitrogen cycle - it’s the holy grail of fish keeping. Quick breakdown - your fish produce waste, which needs to be detoxified in order for it to not poison and kill your fish. The more fish you have in the tank during the cycling process, the faster the toxicity builds and the harder it is to keep on top of things.

If you had just a couple fish, then it would take longer to foul the water and it would be easier to keep the ammonia and nitrite concentrations down during the cycling process.

If you can’t keep the ammonia and nitrite level low, it’ll at best do damage to the fish and at worst kill them. Assuming you change nothing about your stock, you’re going to have to do some very large water changes to keep the fish alive. The “scientific” approach is to test your water every day to determine how much water you need to change in order to get the concentration to where it needs to be. That method requires math. The “common sense” method is to just change most of the water every water change, testing weekly to determine progress. Usually takes 2 weekend for ammonia to come and go and then another 2 weeks for nitrite to come and go, final product being nitrates.

A water changer is a fish keepers best friend. You can buy one or buy the faucet adapter and make one yourself. Another hint, is to purchase a pump to drain your tank. Attach it to a hose and you can drain and fill the tanks in a fraction of the time it would take you to siphon the water out.

125 - BGK, chanchito cichlid, pictus cats, silver dollars, palmas bichir
125 - cichlids (severums, bolivian rams, chocolate), rainbows ( turquoise, red), loaches (angelicus, zebra, kuhli and horseface), plecos (BN, RL and clown), denison barbs, tiretrack eel, pearl gouramis, betta
90 - Congo tetras, african knife, upside down cats, spotted ctenopoma, kribensis, delhezzi bichir
2.5 - betta

Last edited by jaysee; 01-03-2018 at 05:47 PM.
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post #4 of 4 Old 01-27-2018, 08:33 PM
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What temperature are your tanks? The tropical tank will need to be consistently at around 26 deg celcius (not sure for mollies, but the tetras certainly like it around there). The orandas will need a slightly lower temperature, but you'd need to check optimum for that.

You don't mention the pH of your water - 7 being neutral, below 7 becoming progressively acidic, and above 7 becoming progressively alkaline. The most important things about pH are to keep it constant, try to avoid rapid or large changes in pH, and ideally not have to muck with the chemistry of the water available to you. If possible, steer clear of the pH up/down chemicals, and if you do need to adjust it, look for long term solutions (e.g. crushed coral in a bag in your filter to raise it; driftwood in the tank to lower it; other options also). Grab yourself a water test kit from your LFS.

If you've just filled a tank with water from the tap and stuck fish straight in there, then I would suggest changing 50% AT LEAST of the water every day until the ammonia cycle is complete. (You'll need to do quite a bit for the goldfish in any case - they're famously messy).

Ideally you will have prepared water for your water changes. I use a 40 litre container that I fill, add dechlorinator, and leave to stand at least overnight. This is because water from your tap comes out under pressure, and the gases present need to release to the atmosphere before you can get an accurate pH reading. Letting those gases disperse into your tank can cause issues.

Your prepared water should also be at the same pH as that already in your tanks, and at the same temperature - don't give your fish a big shock! Also, don't just dump buckets of new water in there - you'll create a tidal wave, and some of your fish don't like a strong current. You could siphon the water in through silicon tubing, or use a half-litre jug to gently pour it in from the bucket.

Sound like a lot of work? Yep, it is. But if you do it right, it really is rewarding. It gets easier as you go on and learn about it all. And remember, these creatures are relying on you for their lives - same way a domestic cat or dog needs the right care and attention. I wish you the best of luck :)
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guppies , mollies , neon tetras , oranda goldfish , tank maintenance

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