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Super sick molly-need help fast!

13K views 27 replies 6 participants last post by  beaslbob 
#1 ·
Please help- I googled to find out how much aquarium salt to put in 10 oz. of water to give my sick molly a salt bath, and couldn't find anything. All I could find was 2-3% salt should be used in a salt bath, but I'm TERRIBLe at math.

She's a black balloon molly with columnaris. (I've been losing fish to it off and on for months). She was swimming and eating normally yesterday, but I thought I noticed a bit of white on her. Thought it was my imagination or the lighting, but this morning she looks just awful. Gasping at the top, and definitely a lot of white on her body.

I have two bettas in a hospital tank with Kanamycin. I put the molly in 10 oz of aquarium water and started out with about 1/4 teaspoon aquarium salt, dissolved. She looked fine. I added a bit more, and ended up with about 3/4 teaspoon in there. After 10-5 minutes, she was swimming slower so I realized she was starting to stress out.

So I put her in the hospital tank in a breeder and now she's lying on the bottom of it! Not dead, as she does move if I touch her.

Is she a goner? And if she's alive lately, can I give her another salt bath, but mainly, HOW MUCH SALT? I'm afraid she'll die if I don't get help very soon.

Water paramaters are PH of 8, A-0 Nitrites 0 and Nitrates 10. Thank you!
 
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#2 ·
Please help- I googled to find out how much aquarium salt to put in 10 oz. of water to give my sick molly a salt bath, and couldn't find anything. All I could find was 2-3% salt should be used in a salt bath, but I'm TERRIBLe at math.

She's a black balloon molly with columnaris. (I've been losing fish to it off and on for months). She was swimming and eating normally yesterday, but I thought I noticed a bit of white on her. Thought it was my imagination or the lighting, but this morning she looks just awful. Gasping at the top, and definitely a lot of white on her body.

I have two bettas in a hospital tank with Kanamycin. I put the molly in 10 oz of aquarium water and started out with about 1/4 teaspoon aquarium salt, dissolved. She looked fine. I added a bit more, and ended up with about 3/4 teaspoon in there. After 10-5 minutes, she was swimming slower so I realized she was starting to stress out.

So I put her in the hospital tank in a breeder and now she's lying on the bottom of it! Not dead, as she does move if I touch her.

Is she a goner? And if she's alive lately, can I give her another salt bath, but mainly, HOW MUCH SALT? I'm afraid she'll die if I don't get help very soon.

Water paramaters are PH of 8, A-0 Nitrites 0 and Nitrates 10. Thank you!
I hope she's not a goner.

FWIW mollies will live in full marine conditions so it is kinda hard to overdose salt at least as far as the molly in considered.

I used aquarium salt for FW tank some years ago at the levels in the instructions. A white cottony growth started pealing off in a few hours. So I suggest you look at those instructions. I think is was on the order of a tablespoon per gallon but hate to speculate.

Best of luck as I have found mollies do better in a full marine environment.

my .02
 
#3 ·
Thank you so much for your lightning quick answer! From what you say, sounds like I didn't overdose her on the salt. I think maybe just the moving her into the container from her tank might have stresed her just enough to push her over the edge. She was gasping for breath as it was, and then I moved the poor thing. Couldn't have helped her sorry state. I thought a salt bath entailed more salt than just keeping mollies in 1 T. per gallon. I am so sick of this columnaris, striking over and over again. Can't wait to break down the tank and start the heck over! This one by one, losing fish, is just killing me. Will keep you updated. Thanks so much again!
 
#4 ·
FWIW I didn't do a salt bath but rather added the salt to the aquarium with the mollies.

do you have any live plants in your tank(s)? The salt was only necessary with an unplanted tank. with planted tanks or marine tank the mollies did much better especially the marine tanks. In fact I use them to cycle new marine tanks.


my .02
 
#5 ·
Would you euthanize her, beaslbob, if it were you, considering she's in with the two bettas who are recovering? Please be honest. I don't want to jeopardize them as well.
 
#6 ·
Oh, yes, the 55 gallon has several plants and moss in it. The hospital tank has only a miniature sword. Would it be worth it to put the molly in a one gallon tank I have? I have no heater or filter for it though. But at least she'd be away from the recovering bettas.
 
#7 ·
I generally don't euthanize So can't help.

Sounds very doubtful the molly will make it.

You could put it in the 1 gallon to protect the bettas. with some salt. And not feed for a few days to prevent parameter spikes.

Sorry I can't be more help.

my .02
 
#8 ·
Okay, then that's just what I'll do. That way, hopefully the bettas won't get it (if they haven't already). At least I won't be giving up prematurely. Can't tell you how much I appreciate your suggestions.
 
#9 ·
I ended up having to euthanize my sweet little Licorice. She was on her side on the bottom, gasping, and I just couldn't let her suffer like that anymore. Thank you for your help to those who replied. I feel so sad right now.
 
#10 ·
I ended up having to euthanize my sweet little Licorice. She was on her side on the bottom, gasping, and I just couldn't let her suffer like that anymore. Thank you for your help to those who replied. I feel so sad right now.
Sorry to hear and we've all had this happen.
 
#11 ·
Sorry that you lost your fish :(

Did you try using the Kanamycin treatment for the Molly? If an advanced stage of Columnaris, I don't think salt alone would work. You might want to treat the whole tank at this point.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
#12 ·
I was just going to point out that if you've had a couple different fish get sick from the same tank, it would probably be good to treat the whole tank. I think it would only be a matter of time before your other fish got sick too...
 
#13 ·
Thanks, guys. When I have few enough fish to put them in the 10 gallon, I'm going to break down the 55 gallon and use bleach and start over. If I treated the 55 gallon, it would cost me a FORTUNE, and I can't afford it. I still have about 15 fish left in the 55 gallon, and can't squeeze them all in the 10 gallon, so for now I'm just removing the sick ones and putting them in the hospital tank (which is the 10 gallon).

Yes, I had put the molly in the hospital tank with the Kanamycin, but she had gotten sick just overnight, and the meds didn't even have a chance to work. It was too late. This form I have of columnaris is obviously VERY virulent. I've had fish die within 12 hours after becoming the slightest bit listless.

PLEASE people, ALWAYS quarantine! If any newbies are reading this, its just not worth it not to!
 
#15 ·
Are you medicating your balloon molly? And I would definitely quarantine your otherfish as well, and medicate. The white spots on the second fish could just be ich, but no telling. Did you get them both at the same time? If so, I'd quarantine them together with meds. Look up their symptoms and medicate according to what is recommended.
 
#16 ·
Yeah have quarantined the white balloon molly pair now. The females white spot is not going away with water changes and med. What should I do, It's been more than a week now but she does seem to be eating and moving around fine. Can't wait for them to recover and put them back in my main tank. Any more helps amigo.
 
#17 ·
I'm not sure if you've mentioned whether or not you are doing it, but turn up the heat in the tank. It probably needs to be around 80F. That helps speed up the life style of ick and I believe makes them more susceptible to the medications.
 
#18 ·
water quality plays a vital role in the prevention and cure of this disease. Prior to initial dosing of any medication to the aquarium, one should perform a large water change (30-50%) with a thorough gravel cleaning in order to remove excess detritus and waste from the substrate. There are several medications in the marketplace to treat Columnaris. One should follow the manufacturer's instructions for treatment, as different producers, use different concentrations, & it is therefore impossible to give a standard treatment for all the medications out there. Some persons advocate using copper sulphate, but in our opinion, the risk of further damage to the gills of the fish, is too great, and we do not recommend this drug for this disease.

Aqua Pro-Cure and Revive are both a blended mixture of several components to treat this and other diseases. Acriflavine-MS and Metro-MS are single compound medications, specifically acriflavine neutral and metronidazole respectively, which will also bring this disease under control. Please note that Aqua Pro-Cure and Revive are reef and invertebrate safe which makes them the treatment of choice for such an aquarium.

columnaris is a virulent pathogen all fish in the same tank must be treated.
Hope this helps, get some Aqua Pro-Cure and Revive and start treatment a.s.a.p.

Mandy, Marine Biologist/Vet
 
#19 ·
Pistolero, so sorry that I didn't see the message from this forum in my email box until today.

If the molly has one spot that is large, that is, larger than a grain of salt, its probably NOT ich. Its probably columnaris. I've had a few of my fish act perfectly fine, yet have the white spot on them, and it gradually got worse, and larger, then they died within a few weeks.

I would treat with Kanaplex (made by Seachem, and you might have to order it online, many pet shops don't carry it). 10-14 day treatment is imperative--no shorter! Does your molly also show any signs of fin rot? Look at the fins closely. Are any ragged, or look like they have a film on the end of them?This is also a sign of Columnaris.

DON'T turn up the heat to 80 if you suspect Columnaris! I've read in more than a few places that the Columnaris will get worse, as it breeds faster in warmer water. Keep water temp right around 77. Above that, and you will have the Columnaris spreading much faster.

The two female bettas I'm currently treating are responding to the Kanaplex. But you have to catch it early. Do a 30-40% water change every other day, then add another dose of Kanaplex. It says to do a 25% water change on the instructions, but most people do more than that. The siphoning of the substrate every time you do a water change is also very important. Also, don't overfeed, whatever you do. Feed lightly, and make sure the fish clean most, if not all of it up in a couple of minutes. Keep me posted.
 
#21 ·
How's your fish doing, Pistolero?
 
#22 ·
I had a 300 liter aquarium running in my wifes clothes shop. Had set the water for about a week adding med and water clarion. Three heaters running one 300w, 100W and 80W this should be enough. Have added the batch of white spot mollies. Small white freckles like in their tail fin. This should do it. Will keeps yous posted. Meanwhile any advise more is appreciated. The fish look so small in their new massive home.
 
#23 ·
How many gallons is 300 liter? That sounds like a lot of heaters! I have two-200 watts in my 55 gallon. And the room its in sometimes gets down to 60F. Keeps the temp. right where I want it.

Only a week of meds might not be enough. I'd do 10-14 days. The spots don't sound like ich. May be columnaris, or maybe fungus. Ich spots are small, like grains of salt. Just be sure not to stop the meds too soon or your problem might be back.
 
#25 ·
Rightio, some improvement seen. Been expecting her fries too but they seem to be coming out. How long do balloon mollies become pregnant for?

forever
 
#27 ·
For balloon mollies I think its about 4-6 weeks. Correct me if I'm wrong. Beaslbob, you're a stinker!
 
#28 ·
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