Please do not use the ph up, by doing so it is possible to have sudden ph swings which will be more stressful to the fish. Please do try to find out what the GH and the KH of the water is. Alot of this can be found online from your local water people, if you are unable to find the information online than I would suggest calling them to find out the information. If over the month your ph has decreased than I would say that more than likely your kh is low, although right now that is a speculation. There are natural ways of raising the hardness and the ph in the tank which should be used over the use of chemicals in the tank. The following article by Byron explains about hardness and ph http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...quarium-73276/
From the numbers posted on your water parameters I would say that the tank is not cycled. With the fish having anchor worms it will be important that you make sure to keep your water pristine to keep them from getting secondary infections. I would suggest daily water changes of at least 30-40%. The following is from Lupin on his thread on freshwater and saltwater diseases Anchorworm (Lernaea elegans)
The crustacean Lernaea
is often called "anchorworm" by aquarists as it anchors deeply in the fish skin with its branched suction organ and has an elongated body without visible limbs. At the back end, there are two sac-like outgrowths where eggs develop.
It takes the eggs between several days and and two weeks to attain maturity. Then they fall off and the larvae hatch. The mother crustacean dies and is repelled from the fish tissue after the eggs have fallen off. The laravae are also parasites and go to the gills of the fish to suck blood. As larvae, they attain sexual maturity there. After mating, the female larvae leave the fish and swim around as planktonic organisms for a short time. Then they find a host and bore their way into its skin. Treatment:
1. Dimilin Powder
The only known method of killing this parasite, without killing the fish is DIMILIN POWDER which can be used safely at any water temperature and has an action of sterilizing the adult and larval stages of this parasite which insures that all eggs produced, after the application of Dimilin, will not hatch.
Method: Dimilin Powder at the rate of 1 gram per ton of pond water. Measure out the quantity required and mix in a plastic bucket with pond water ensuring that the powder is dissolved then add to the pond in the previous manner. A second dosage may be needed to ensure that the life cycle of the anchor worm has been halted. After this second application the dead adults, which will still be hanging from the fish, can be removed using tweezers but making sure that the hooks, as well as the tail of the anchor worm are removed and then apply a proprietary topical dressing to prevent a secondary infection.
2. Potassium Permanganate
There is another way of removing anchor worm but more care has to be taken when removing all parts of the anchor worm which is to mix a strong solution of potassium permanganate crystals of 1 gram into 25 mls of hot water. Mix well until dissolved and then dip the tweezers into this solution prior to the removal of the anchor worm, once the solution touches the body, the anchor worm releases its grip immediately and it can then be lifted clear of the fish and the water. Wipe the end of the tweezers on a clean tissue to remove all traces before attempting to remove another anchor worm.
3. Sera Cyprinopur
Follow the instructions accordingly. Use Sera Baktopur to treat the wounds of the fish after the anchor worms have been pulled out. When pulling anchor worms out of the fish, firmly grasp the tweezers near its base where it is burying to the skin and quickly pull it out.
Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/t...#ixzz1WLMwN2Sx
During this time the most important thing is keeping the water as pristine as possible so that the fish can heal. After that I would deal with the ph and hardness issues. Livebearers like platys, guppies, mollys and swordtails do need harder basic water to thrive. We can look at these after the fish have had a chance to heal, and adjust accordingly.