Suddenly overrun with different diseases :( help with treatment? - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #1 of 14 Old 08-28-2011, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Suddenly overrun with different diseases :( help with treatment?

Ok so parimiters are all ok, seems my ph has dropped from 7.2 to 6.2 in a month.
i have a 40 gallon tank, with several molly of different breeds, platty, female guppies, tetras (neon and phantom) glass catfish gourami and a pleco called george.
I had a beautiful fighting fish who started showing signs of stress, after starting treatment for stress with salts i found fungus on one side of his fins and parasites on the other, he died that night before any other treatment could start.
then after close inspection i saw others having problems.
One of my pregnant guppies was incredibly bloated, and looked like she had a fluffy stomach, one of my balloon mollys had a wierd growth, it looked like a red pimple with a white head, right in his 'armpit' area behind his right fin. And it is definatly not white spot.
I also saw a swordtail had 1 worm, in his armpit area also, and 1 platty had 3 worms in his tail fin and one on his side. We identified it as possible anchor worm.
So with all these different problems what do i use? I've just got a master test kit, so will post results later when i get around to using it, and i added salts to the entire aquarium (used recommended dosage to reduce stress)
Help please!
A friend got some of her fish from the same shop as myself, and hers came down with fish tuberculosis. I REALLY hope this isn't it as i know it cannot be treated and these fish cost alot
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post #2 of 14 Old 08-28-2011, 09:01 AM
Unfortunately I'm not going to be terribly helpful as I've not dealt with any of these diseases, but I am going to warm you about the glass catfish - do you only have 1 of them? I can't tell if you meant that you have a group of them or just 1, but they NEED to be in a group so I hope you have several. Also, watch it/them extremely closely while medicating or treating with salt. They are incredibly sensitive, the treatments alone could easily kill them. I would put them in a QT tank and only treat for what you can identify to save them the stress of various medications.

Good luck! It sounds like you've got quite a mess on your hands. Are the fish all new, or have they all developed these diseases while in your care? It sounds like you could have some major water condition problems, put that test kit to good use!!
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post #3 of 14 Old 08-28-2011, 11:25 AM
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U have mentioned that ur pH has dropped from 7.2 which is alkaline to 6.2 which is acidic, according to my experience this sudden drop in pH from alkaline to acidic causes a lot of stress in fish for which many sensitive species cannot tolerate and die.

as far as disease is concerned, seems like ur fishes have all kinds of infection (fungal, parasitic,etc.). I think U need to separate all the fishes to a hospital tank for treatment and disinfect and clean completely ur main tank before keeping healthy fishes.

Try to identify if the disease is occuring in ur tank or coming with the fish from the shop. if the diseased fish is not separated immediately, then chances r there to spread in other fishes.
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post #4 of 14 Old 08-28-2011, 11:43 AM
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We need more information to try to help figure out what may be going on. The exact numbers of ammonia nitrites and nitrates. Also how long has this tank been set up for? Do you know what the GH and the KH of yoour water is? Depending on what your KH is the drop in the PH may be a natural process. If you could fill out the following form it will be helpful. Also if you are able to get some pictures it may help in trying to figure out what is going on.

1. Size of tank?

2. Water parameters
a. Ammonia?
b. Nitrite?
c. Nitrate?
d. pH, KH and GH?
e. Test kit?

3. Temperature?

4. FW (fresh water) or BW (brackish)?

5. How long the aquarium has been set up?

6. What fish do you have? How many are in your tank? How big are they? How long have you had them?

7. Were the fish placed under quarantine period (minus the first batch from the point wherein the tank is ready to accommodate the inhabitants)?

8. a. Any live plants? Fake plants?
b. Sand, gravel, barebottom?
c. Rocks, woods, fancy decors? Any hollow decors?

9. a. Filtration?
b. Heater?

10. a. Lighting schedule? What lights are used?
b. Any sunlight exposure? How long?

11. a. Water change schedule?
b. Volume of water changed?
c. Well water, tap water, RO water?
d. Water conditioner used?
e. Frequency of gravel/sand (if any) vacuumed?

12. Foods?
How often are they fed?

13. a. Any abnormal signs/symptoms?
b. Appearance of poop?
c. Appearance of gills?

14. a. Have you treated your fish ahead of diagnosis?
b. What meds were used?

15. Insert photos of fish in question and full tank shot if necessary.
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post #5 of 14 Old 08-28-2011, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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got my tests,
ammonia is 0
nitrate and nitrite both 0
(master test kits are ACE compared to the dip sticks!)
my ph is now 6.4, got some PH Up coming through the post should here soon.
After reading through a very indepth book about fish deseases i cannot identify the lump on the balloon molly, which has gone down overnight quite a bit, my female guppie died :( and i found out from the book i had to remove the anchor worms myself.
Ii got my fish out and very quickly removed the worms and heads with tweezers, they are now in the dark recovering in a seperate tank. No other infections or deseases that i can see anymore and i think my mollys lump may have been a war wound from a recent scrap i caught him having with a swordtail.
Ive added stress zyme, and will try sort out the PH once my stuff arrives.
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post #6 of 14 Old 08-28-2011, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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1: 75 litre tank

2. answered above

3. temp is 27oC

4. freshwater

5. A year

6. 4 glass catfish, 2 swordtails 2 sailfins 2 normal and 3 balloon mollys. 2 platty, 5 neon tetras, 2 red honey gouramis 5 phantom tetras and a pleco. last fish added was the sailfins, 3 months ago.

7. i regret i never put any fish under quarantine, but i will do next batch i buy after this is all over.

8. a. nice forest of live plants and some java moss
b. gravel substrate
c. 1 piece of bogwood, 3 skull caves.

9. a. elite stingray 15 filter
b. 200 watt heater

10. a. lights on at 7am off at 9pm.
b. as much sunlight exposure as comes through a window in the summer.

11. a. Water change weekly
b. Volume of water changed is 20 litres out of 75
c. tap water.
d. tap safe made by love fish.
e. twice monthly gravel vaccumed.

12. Foods?
morning and night king british natural fish flakes, weekly have frozen bloodworm or live as a treat.

rest of the questions have been answered.
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post #7 of 14 Old 08-28-2011, 12:02 PM
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Please do not use the ph up, by doing so it is possible to have sudden ph swings which will be more stressful to the fish. Please do try to find out what the GH and the KH of the water is. Alot of this can be found online from your local water people, if you are unable to find the information online than I would suggest calling them to find out the information. If over the month your ph has decreased than I would say that more than likely your kh is low, although right now that is a speculation. There are natural ways of raising the hardness and the ph in the tank which should be used over the use of chemicals in the tank. The following article by Byron explains about hardness and ph

From the numbers posted on your water parameters I would say that the tank is not cycled. With the fish having anchor worms it will be important that you make sure to keep your water pristine to keep them from getting secondary infections. I would suggest daily water changes of at least 30-40%. The following is from Lupin on his thread on freshwater and saltwater diseases

Anchorworm (Lernaea elegans)

The crustacean Lernaea is often called "anchorworm" by aquarists as it anchors deeply in the fish skin with its branched suction organ and has an elongated body without visible limbs. At the back end, there are two sac-like outgrowths where eggs develop.

It takes the eggs between several days and and two weeks to attain maturity. Then they fall off and the larvae hatch. The mother crustacean dies and is repelled from the fish tissue after the eggs have fallen off. The laravae are also parasites and go to the gills of the fish to suck blood. As larvae, they attain sexual maturity there. After mating, the female larvae leave the fish and swim around as planktonic organisms for a short time. Then they find a host and bore their way into its skin.

1. Dimilin Powder
The only known method of killing this parasite, without killing the fish is DIMILIN POWDER which can be used safely at any water temperature and has an action of sterilizing the adult and larval stages of this parasite which insures that all eggs produced, after the application of Dimilin, will not hatch.

Method: Dimilin Powder at the rate of 1 gram per ton of pond water. Measure out the quantity required and mix in a plastic bucket with pond water ensuring that the powder is dissolved then add to the pond in the previous manner. A second dosage may be needed to ensure that the life cycle of the anchor worm has been halted. After this second application the dead adults, which will still be hanging from the fish, can be removed using tweezers but making sure that the hooks, as well as the tail of the anchor worm are removed and then apply a proprietary topical dressing to prevent a secondary infection.

2. Potassium Permanganate
There is another way of removing anchor worm but more care has to be taken when removing all parts of the anchor worm which is to mix a strong solution of potassium permanganate crystals of 1 gram into 25 mls of hot water. Mix well until dissolved and then dip the tweezers into this solution prior to the removal of the anchor worm, once the solution touches the body, the anchor worm releases its grip immediately and it can then be lifted clear of the fish and the water. Wipe the end of the tweezers on a clean tissue to remove all traces before attempting to remove another anchor worm.

3. Sera Cyprinopur
Follow the instructions accordingly. Use Sera Baktopur to treat the wounds of the fish after the anchor worms have been pulled out. When pulling anchor worms out of the fish, firmly grasp the tweezers near its base where it is burying to the skin and quickly pull it out.

Read more:

During this time the most important thing is keeping the water as pristine as possible so that the fish can heal. After that I would deal with the ph and hardness issues. Livebearers like platys, guppies, mollys and swordtails do need harder basic water to thrive. We can look at these after the fish have had a chance to heal, and adjust accordingly.
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post #8 of 14 Old 08-28-2011, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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got my dipsticks out for testing kh and gh.
KH is 100
GH is 250
Ive read alot of good things about stress zyme and stress coat, which ive added to help them heal, and i will wait and adjust everything slowly once they have healed from removing the worms.
I would like to have the tank back to normal in a month as i have 9 guppie fry from my female who died that i would like to put in. They will be ready in a month.
I would like to know how my tank isnt cycled, when its been running perfectly for a year, i did notice nitrates and nitrites shoot up a few points and drop again.
I will get started with bigger water changes daily ASAP.
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post #9 of 14 Old 08-28-2011, 01:17 PM
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I would expect in a cycled tank to see 0 on ammonia and nitrites, and expect there to be a reading on nitrates. With a heavily planted tank low nitrates would be expected, and if the stocking was light enough it probably is possible to have no nitrates. But with the fish that you have in there the livebearers and the pleco create quite a bit of a bioload, and I would expect there to be some nitrates.
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post #10 of 14 Old 08-28-2011, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BarbH View Post
I would expect in a cycled tank to see 0 on ammonia and nitrites, and expect there to be a reading on nitrates. With a heavily planted tank low nitrates would be expected, and if the stocking was light enough it probably is possible to have no nitrates. But with the fish that you have in there the livebearers and the pleco create quite a bit of a bioload, and I would expect there to be some nitrates.
do moss balls remove nitrates like they say they do? as i have 3, forgot to note them down. Il do another test in a week see if anything changes.
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