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Sick and dying fish- multiple species

This is a discussion on Sick and dying fish- multiple species within the Tropical Fish Diseases forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Originally Posted by jaysee The wattage of the heater shouldn't be a problem. Was thinking more of my power bill. But the thing is ...

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Sick and dying fish- multiple species
Old 05-11-2013, 03:27 PM   #31
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaysee View Post
The wattage of the heater shouldn't be a problem.
Was thinking more of my power bill. But the thing is only on for probably a few minutes out of every hour. Actually I have a tool that will measure that, might as well plug it in and see what it says...
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:33 PM   #32
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmadsen View Post
Was thinking more of my power bill. But the thing is only on for probably a few minutes out of every hour. Actually I have a tool that will measure that, might as well plug it in and see what it says...
hehe
1 fish tank won't make a noticeable impact in your bill. I might of seen a $1? increase in my electric bill for my 75 gallon. Runs 2 heaters/canister filter.
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:28 PM   #33
 
AGGHH dead guppy!


Showed no signs of any problems, got up this morning and everyone was chasing his carcas around nipping at the fins. Everyone else looks fine though.
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:45 PM   #34
 
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May have beena fish that just took more than it could handle. Keep an eye on the others, as previously suggested by us.
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:53 PM   #35
 
Lost a neon last night. It was one of the ones that I put back in.

Here are water test results:

pH: 8
Ammonia: 0
NO2: 0
NO3: 40

Going to be getting the pH taken care of asap, whats a good goal?

NO3, I have 2 aquaclear 50's on the tank running 24/7. Filter 1 has sponge that is 2 months old. Rinsed with every cleaning. Charcoal a week old. Biopellets about 5 months old (pet store was out of these). Filter 2 sponge 5 months old (still looks to be in great shape, rinsed every cleaning). Ammonia absorber week old. Biopellets 6 months old.

Every cleaning I vacuum the gravel. Have 1 live plant and a moss ball. Aeration was on 9 hours a day, took it off timer and now running 24/7. Aeration is 2- 8" strips on either side of tank with large bubbles using a tetra whisper60. I use topfin water conditioner with every fill.
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:18 PM   #36
 
Just checked my tap water. It has a pH of 8.4-8.8!
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:36 PM   #37
 
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Quote:
Just checked my tap water. It has a pH of 8.4-8.8!
Did you remember to shake the water in a jar very briskly for a few minutes to outgas the CO2? If yes, then this should be a fairly reliable number.

Quote:
Lost a neon last night. It was one of the ones that I put back in.
This is not really a surprise, if this was one of those with spots/blotches. Sometimes these last, sometimes not.

Quote:
Here are water test results:
pH: 8
Ammonia: 0
NO2: 0
NO3: 40

Going to be getting the pH taken care of asap, whats a good goal?
What do you mean by taking care of the pH? And as part of this, what is your tap water GH (general hardness) and KH (carbonate hardness, or Alkalinity) as these are closely related?

Nitrates at 40ppm is high. What is the tap water nitrate?

Quote:
NO3, I have 2 aquaclear 50's on the tank running 24/7. Filter 1 has sponge that is 2 months old. Rinsed with every cleaning. Charcoal a week old. Biopellets about 5 months old (pet store was out of these). Filter 2 sponge 5 months old (still looks to be in great shape, rinsed every cleaning). Ammonia absorber week old. Biopellets 6 months old.

Every cleaning I vacuum the gravel. Have 1 live plant and a moss ball. Aeration was on 9 hours a day, took it off timer and now running 24/7. Aeration is 2- 8" strips on either side of tank with large bubbles using a tetra whisper60. I use topfin water conditioner with every fill.
Nothing wrong here with respect to cleaning filter, etc. I would increase the plants, but given all this aeration and to allow you to keep it running, floating plants would be best. They assimilate CO2 from the air, not the water, so driving CO2 out with bubblers is not an issue, and it will allow more oxygen (sort of). Water Sprite is ideal, or Brazilian Pennywort.

Water changes (what you mean by "every cleaning" I assume) should be weekly, and change half the tank.

Now, a side comment. Soft water fish like neons will have some issues with a pH at 8. But I want to see the GH as this is even more significant. And any attempt to adjust pH must first deal with the GH /KH or it will almost always fail.

Byron.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:16 PM   #38
 
Home NO3 is 0.

I will stop on way home from work tomorrow to get a GH and KH test kit. Unless the API Master Test kit will check this and I just missed those instructions. Anything else I may want to look at getting while I am there?

Water changes are now being done on Saturdays at 50% with a full vacuuming of gravel.

Will look into the floating plants as well as I am not a huge fan of putting the plants into the gravel. Next time I start the tank (next time we move) I want to plan different and put down better substrate than gravel. I will be researching that when the time comes so I can have a game plan.

I will not change the pH until I get the results of hardness and alkalinity. After all, they have been in the high pH water for quite some time now anyways. I do however want to get it down to a better range for all of the fish.

Thanks
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:32 PM   #39
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmadsen View Post
Home NO3 is 0.

I will stop on way home from work tomorrow to get a GH and KH test kit. Unless the API Master Test kit will check this and I just missed those instructions. Anything else I may want to look at getting while I am there?

Water changes are now being done on Saturdays at 50% with a full vacuuming of gravel.

Will look into the floating plants as well as I am not a huge fan of putting the plants into the gravel. Next time I start the tank (next time we move) I want to plan different and put down better substrate than gravel. I will be researching that when the time comes so I can have a game plan.

I will not change the pH until I get the results of hardness and alkalinity. After all, they have been in the high pH water for quite some time now anyways. I do however want to get it down to a better range for all of the fish.

Thanks
If you are going to be adjusting water parameters like pH, then the GH and KH will have to be dealt with, so the API liquid kit (GH & KH) is worth getting. But you can get the numbers from the water folks so we know what you may be facing. GH/KH may be high, or it may not; the pH is related and adjusting the pH must include KH particularly, but having said that the pH can be high with a low GH/KH.

Regardless, on no account get any of the pH adjusting solutions. They probably won't work, depending on the KH, and they are never the best way to handle this anyway.

Did I mention my article on how all this relates?
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/1...quarium-73276/
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:05 PM   #40
 
I checked with all 3 of my area pet stores (petco, pet smart, pet supplies plus) and none have the liquid test kit for GH and KH. They did have the test strips for about $5 a test, but I wanted the liquid. Got them coming for Thurs from amazon.

No new changes in the tank, all seem to be doing well.

Good read on the water, thanks
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