Safe to treat my tank with salt for ich? - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 18 Old 02-08-2012, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by yyankeeyankeefan View Post
what causes ich?
It is caused by a Protozoan Parasite, It goes through 3 stages and will continue it's endless life cycle if left untreated.

It can be brought in on new fish added to your tank, this is why it is HIGHLY recommended to quarantine a new fish for 3-4 weeks before adding it to your tank.

This way, if you notice ich, you can treat it before it gets into your main tank, same goes for other diseases as well.

Never treat a fish for something you are not sure what it is, chances are you will do more harm than good. Never also treat on a whim of "well I might have it"...NO, DEAD fish quick if you do that.

Think of it as going to a doctor and they having no clue as to what you have, they give you medication and it kills you....harsh but same goes for fish!, thing is they cannot reply to you.

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)
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post #12 of 18 Old 02-08-2012, 11:35 PM
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Tazman, I think in many situations you're right with the advice you've given. HOWEVER, in this siutation I'm concerning about the Corydoras... they don't do well with salt OR high temps, much less both together. The high temp/salt bath might just kill them, whether they have Ich or not.

So... what to do? Since I'm generally against chemical treatments unless absolutely necessary, here is what I would recommend- remove the Corydoras to a bare bottom hospital tank*. Treat the main tank as Tazman suggested with salt (but use only 1 TEASPOON PER GALLON BUILT UP OVER THE FIRST 8 HOURS) and high temps (86 derees F) and aggressive gravel vac, but also add extra aeration. The higher the temp of the water, the less its able to hold oxygen. We don't want to stress the fish out any more than we already are, so use an airstone or lower the water level so that the filter creates more splashing.
Then treat the hospital tank with a formalin/malachite green drug like Kordon's "Rid-Ich" or Aquatronics' "Formalite II" or Mardel's "Maracide" (see link below) exactly as directed. Be sure that formalin and malachite green are the only ingredients. Put the tank hospital in darkness by covering it with a blanket. (Light lessens the efficacy of these drugs.) Be sure to siphon off the bottom of the tank daily.
Continue BOTH treatments for 3 days after the last cyst drops off.

(*If you don't have a hospital tank, let us know and we can help you rig one up cheaply and quickly.)

Know your enemy: Ich | The Skeptical Aquarist

"My dither fish need dither fish!"
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post #13 of 18 Old 02-08-2012, 11:54 PM
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Also, forgot to add-

It is imperative to determine the reason for the outbreak of Ich. The fish are stressed for one reason or another, and illnesses will continue to happen until you figure out the root cause of the stress and correct it. Causes could include but are not limited to- poor water quality (i.e. ammonia or nitrite in the water, nitrates over 40ppm), aggression, infrequent water changes, water changes that don't remove enough waste, overstocking, decaying plant matter, overfeeding, insufficient hiding spaces, gregarious species kept in insufficient numbers, etc).

liz26914- Salt is not a good preventative for anything, and should not be added to freshwater fish.

"My dither fish need dither fish!"
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post #14 of 18 Old 02-10-2012, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
MinaMinaMina, thank you for all the information. First about the cories, I hate to say it but they're going to have to just fight through it this time. I don't have a hospital tank and don't have the option of setting one up either unfortunately. So far their behavior seems normal but I know that means they're probably still not happy. Hopefully they'll make it through the next week or so. They are unaffected by the ich so far. Right now it's the emperor tetras and checkerboard cichlids that have it I don't see spots on any other fish.

Now about the root of the problem. I believe it's a couple different things. My parameters are all ok (zero across the board) and I do weekly 30% water changes. I just bought some hornwort that's been droppin needles like crazy which I believe is fouling the water since I can't keep up with them. Will probably just toss the plant.

Also it's a fairly new tank and I probably added all the fish too quickly in the excitment even though I know better. It's possible that one of them was carrying although showed no signs when I bought it but I'll never know because I added them so close together. The tank is med. to heavily planted though and with the water changes I think that's what has kept the ammonia and everything down.

One more possibility is the aggression between the different cichlids although I haven't seen any aggression between any species so I don't think that's it.
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post #15 of 18 Old 02-10-2012, 03:29 PM
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The Ich can come in through water, so if there were fish/Ich in the hornwort tank at the store, it could have been in the hornwort water. Just one possibility

If you have an extra air pump, heater and airline tubing, that's all that is really needed to set up a hospital tank. You can make a make-shift sponge filter out of a plastic water bottle and various stuffing with the air pump and airline tubing, and you can use a plastic storage bin (like a "Rubbermaid" or something) or a plastic trash bin (if clean) for a tank. Quick and cheap.

"My dither fish need dither fish!"
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post #16 of 18 Old 02-10-2012, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
Ya, that's how I'm thinking the ich got into my tank since I don't have the option of setting up a quarantine tank. I actually have all the necessary supplies for setting up a small tank (10g) for the cories but the space is the problem. I really have no where to put a tank at the moment. Hopefully they make it.

Another question I have is when doing a water change do I put in 1 teaspoon per gallon of salt for water changed or 3 teaspoons per gallon changed? So for example I change 5 gallons do I add 5 teaspoons of salt or 15?
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post #17 of 18 Old 02-11-2012, 12:48 AM
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From what I studied, the minimum dose is 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. The dose can be increased up to 3 teaspoons per gallon for fish who are better able to tolerate salt. This dose is slowly titrated over the first 8 hours, and maintained from that point until the end of the treatment.

Just like in cooking, make sure your teaspoons are level teaspoons, not heaping.

What salinity are you at now?

"My dither fish need dither fish!"
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post #18 of 18 Old 02-11-2012, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
Before the first water change I had it up to 3 teaspoons per gallon. I did add 1tpg over 36 hours until it got up to 3tpg. I did the water change of roughly 15 gallons and added 15 more teaspoons to the water. Should I have added 45 teaspoons to keep it at 3tpg? And yes I've been very careful with making sure the scoops are level.
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