Question about "Quick Cure" - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #1 of 12 Old 02-28-2012, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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Question about "Quick Cure"


Found a couple ich spots on both of my new female GBR. Male shows no signs. LFS recommended Quick Cure, and to use the dosage for tetras (which is 1 drop per 2 gallons). I started it on Sunday, dosed again on Monday. Only see one spot as of last night, probably by this afternoon there won't be any. Light is off now, too early to check on them :)

Directions just say to stop when symptoms are gone. Should I just treat for the 48 hours? Should I treat one more day and than do a wc?

I wish the package had more specific directions. I know that with ich, there is a stage where it's not suceptible to treatment, right?

Thanks for advise from anyone who has used this stuff. I have live plants, and just didn't want to do the salt thing. I did move my 2 ammano shrimp to another tank.

Gwen

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post #2 of 12 Old 02-28-2012, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by GwenInNM View Post
Found a couple ich spots on both of my new female GBR. Male shows no signs. LFS recommended Quick Cure, and to use the dosage for tetras (which is 1 drop per 2 gallons). I started it on Sunday, dosed again on Monday. Only see one spot as of last night, probably by this afternoon there won't be any. Light is off now, too early to check on them :)

Directions just say to stop when symptoms are gone. Should I just treat for the 48 hours? Should I treat one more day and than do a wc?

I wish the package had more specific directions. I know that with ich, there is a stage where it's not suceptible to treatment, right?

Thanks for advise from anyone who has used this stuff. I have live plants, and just didn't want to do the salt thing. I did move my 2 ammano shrimp to another tank.

Gwen
Is all I have ever used for ICH and mild fungus.
Treat at half dose for two days, then perform water change and wait to see if parasite returns.
Recently used it on cardinal tetra's and cherry shrimp were also in the tank.
At half dose,,they are still kicking three weeks later.(fish and shrimp)

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.

Last edited by 1077; 02-28-2012 at 08:18 AM.
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post #3 of 12 Old 02-28-2012, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 1077 View Post
Is all I have ever used for ICH and mild fungus.
Treat at half dose for two days, then perform water change and wait to see if parasite returns.
Recently used it on cardinal tetra's and cherry shrimp were also in the tank.
At half dose,,they are still kicking three weeks later.(fish and shrimp)

Okay, thanks. That means since I've done two days, I won't treat today, but I'll do a water change tomorrow.
Let em "soak" one more day :) I do have Cardinal tetras in the tank too. They have no spots. That sure is a quick cure - no pun intended

Gwen

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Last edited by GwenInNM; 02-28-2012 at 01:19 PM.
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post #4 of 12 Old 02-28-2012, 04:37 PM
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You can't really kill ick when it's attached to the fish, this is called a trophont. It's entrenched below the fish's skin so it's impossible to kill. As soon as the trophonts detach to become a cyst in the substrate, the quickcure will make short work of them. They are called tomonts at that stage. When the cyst "hatches", dozens or even hundreds of theronts swim around looking for a fish. This is why ich is so bad in the tank vs. in nature. In nature, the free swimmers are extremely unlikely to find any fish, much less the same one. They only have two days to find a fish or die trying.

On fish that can take it by cranking the temp to 86F, free swimming ich theronts will not be able to attach to a fish. At 89F, they simply die from the heat. If fish can take the heat, the best way to end ich in one cycle is heat and a bit of salt. I believe that the salt makes it tougher to attach to the fish since the slime coat thickens.
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post #5 of 12 Old 02-28-2012, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by afremont View Post
You can't really kill ick when it's attached to the fish, this is called a trophont. It's entrenched below the fish's skin so it's impossible to kill. As soon as the trophonts detach to become a cyst in the substrate, the quickcure will make short work of them. They are called tomonts at that stage. When the cyst "hatches", dozens or even hundreds of theronts swim around looking for a fish. This is why ich is so bad in the tank vs. in nature. In nature, the free swimmers are extremely unlikely to find any fish, much less the same one. They only have two days to find a fish or die trying.

On fish that can take it by cranking the temp to 86F, free swimming ich theronts will not be able to attach to a fish. At 89F, they simply die from the heat. If fish can take the heat, the best way to end ich in one cycle is heat and a bit of salt. I believe that the salt makes it tougher to attach to the fish since the slime coat thickens.

So, here's my dilemma. I came home, and do see spots still on one of the fish, so I dosed the tank again (3rd time) and should be doing a weekly water change today. Figure I can wait another day, even till Thursday if I had to, but my nitrates are at 5ppm, which I usually only have 0 nitrates, but I've been feeding more than normal too. Want to ensure the smaller female is getting enough food.

So, if I still see spots tomorrow, do you think I should go ahead and do a 50% wc, and then treat the tank again? It says to treat until there are no more "symptoms". I have the heat at 86, but these fish can tolerate more, so I'll turn it up slowly tonight. I really don't want to use salt, because I have live plants. My MTS are still okay, but I hear they will likely die off too. I see them on the glass now, which normally I don't see them till lights go off, so maybe they aren't doing so well. Thanks!!

Gwen

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post #6 of 12 Old 02-29-2012, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by GwenInNM View Post
So, here's my dilemma. I came home, and do see spots still on one of the fish, so I dosed the tank again (3rd time) and should be doing a weekly water change today. Figure I can wait another day, even till Thursday if I had to, but my nitrates are at 5ppm, which I usually only have 0 nitrates, but I've been feeding more than normal too. Want to ensure the smaller female is getting enough food.

So, if I still see spots tomorrow, do you think I should go ahead and do a 50% wc, and then treat the tank again? It says to treat until there are no more "symptoms". I have the heat at 86, but these fish can tolerate more, so I'll turn it up slowly tonight. I really don't want to use salt, because I have live plants. My MTS are still okay, but I hear they will likely die off too. I see them on the glass now, which normally I don't see them till lights go off, so maybe they aren't doing so well. Thanks!!

Gwen
Have only ever dosed the way I mentioned.
Half dose for two day's,water change,half dose for two day's,water change.
I do it this way cause med can begin to affect biological filter, but perhaps in planted tank,,this may not be issue.
Still ,,water changes have always been my friend when in doubt.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #7 of 12 Old 02-29-2012, 09:02 AM
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I've used that stuff in the past and it didn't work at all for me. I ended up just giving up on it and spent my time and money making the tank more stable for the fish and, finally, all of the fish recovered, and have been ich-free for a few months now. :)

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post #8 of 12 Old 03-01-2012, 12:29 AM
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Gwen, I would continue to treat for at least 3-4 days after you no longer see spots on the fish. As Afremont stated the ick can't be killed while it's on the fish. Once the trophonts fall off the fish into the gravel they hatch after a few days and the free swimming parasite can then be killed by the meds. Continue to dose and do water changes making sure to vacuum the gravel. I've always had good results using Quick Cure. You just have to make sure to dose long enough along with extra water changes/gravel vacs.

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post #9 of 12 Old 03-01-2012, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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Gwen, I would continue to treat for at least 3-4 days after you no longer see spots on the fish. As Afremont stated the ick can't be killed while it's on the fish. Once the trophonts fall off the fish into the gravel they hatch after a few days and the free swimming parasite can then be killed by the meds. Continue to dose and do water changes making sure to vacuum the gravel. I've always had good results using Quick Cure. You just have to make sure to dose long enough along with extra water changes/gravel vacs.
Thanks much! I was going to do a water change yesterday (it's due), but still see a couple spots, now on the Cardinals :( So I just took out a small amount of water and did re-dose. I'll do a big water change today and re-dose. I'm "cheap" with my water changes, because I have to buy the water, so I have the low ph of 6.3

I've never had ich, I keep my water parameters very good, doing weekly water change. It was one of the new females, and she must have gotten it from stress. She is not picked on by any means "terribly", but I do see that the male will frequently chase her over to the other side of the tank. From what I know about these fish, a certain amount of that is normal, but I do feel bad about this for her. She does come right back out, and is very confident/brave, whatever. I really like her attitude, and hate to get rid of her, but I'll have to continue to watch how the 3 do together.

Gwen

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post #10 of 12 Old 03-01-2012, 07:19 AM
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Does anybody remember the old Nox Ick ? You'd raise the temperature to 82, 1 drop per gallon and zap. The ick was gone.
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