One of the Blood Parrot acting odd - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 23 Old 03-19-2008, 09:02 PM
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There also looks to be a Boemani rainbow in there...just pointing out.
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post #12 of 23 Old 03-19-2008, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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yes they are bala. I tested the water that i am putting in and them ph is 7.6

I will post more water parameters tomorrow.
What should i do with the angels?
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post #13 of 23 Old 03-20-2008, 12:17 AM
No offense, but that looks like a really small 65G tank. Your one big parrot is like 1/5 or 1/6 the size of the tank, and he is only 5-6".
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post #14 of 23 Old 03-20-2008, 01:00 AM
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looks like a 65 tall to me

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post #15 of 23 Old 03-20-2008, 02:15 AM
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Looks way overcrowded already and most of those fish are still young.

Looks like a nightmare in the making.

I would suggest either a tank of their own (6 angels will need about 125 - 150 gallons within the first yr or 2), or maybe returning them to the LFS. If they stay in that tank, you risk losing all of the fish, not just the angels. The bala sharks will have to go as well.

To keep all of the fish you have there, you're looking at about 300 - 400 gallons by the time everything is full grown. Fish grow quickly when healthy, though the balas a little slower than most. If you use the average stocking rule, 1 inch of adult fish per gallon for sharks and angels, and 1 inch of adult fish per five gallons for the parrots (because they're known to be waste machines)...
3 balas = (14 inches each) 42 inches
1 bosemani rainbow = 4 - 5 inches
6 angelfish = (6 - 8 inches diameter each) 18 - 24 inches
3 blood parrots = (8 - 10 inches each) 24 - 30 inches

That gives you 88 - 101 inches... without taking into account that you're dealing with aggressive fish with the angels, and the sharks need length to swim. I always told the kids at the store to go home and cut out paper plates or construction paper fish in the adult size ranges, and then hold them all up to the tank... common sense is enough to tell anyone that they won't fit. Then there is the question of waste levels, which will require a lot of filtration, lots of water changes, and regular water testing.

My 220 gallon has 2 adult oscars in it and one 12 inch pleco, and just looking at that tank you can see its full. The oscars are about 13 - 14 inches each. If a water change is missed for a wk or more, the fish get sick because the waste build up gets so bad. The one oscar I have in a 75 hospital tank needs a water change every other day to keep his waste levels down. One fish alone... that tank is full.

I hope this gives you an idea of why we're all commenting on your stocking list. Even with getting rid of the angels, you're going to still need about 125 - 150 gallons minimum for the rest of those fish, until the balas grow up.

Dawn Moneyhan
Aquatics Specialist/Nutritionist
Juneau, WI
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post #16 of 23 Old 03-20-2008, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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My water test results are:
Upper ph-7.4
nh3-40 (hard to tell by color chart)

How often do u should I be changeing the media in my ehiem, i was told to only change half at a time and the tube type at the bottom i did not have to change is this correct?
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post #17 of 23 Old 03-20-2008, 05:01 PM
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For a properly stocked tank, yes, that is correct.

In your situation, though, there are going to be 2 choices. Changing all of the floss media at once, use tank water to completely rince out the filter and the sponge media.... or do the changes much more often. Instead of once/month you may have to do it twice/month, and still a good idea to use some tank water to rinse the canister and sponge media out then, too.

What test kits are you using? The color charts vary according to the manufacturer putting out the tests. With API its best to hold the vial up against a piece of plain white paper when checking color comparison... with Sera kits its better to look into the vial after setting it on a piece of white paper. Tests should always be read in a well lit room, also.

You listed pH as "upper pH"... the API kits will typically contain a low range pH and a high range pH. If you test high range and get a low reading, it's also a good idea to test low range too. The high range can only go down to a certain level, and if the pH is below that level there is no way to know where it is really at unless you test low end as well. The same applies in reverse. If you're testing softened water and the test comes out at the top of the end of results, you'll then have to test high range to get an accurate reading.
Test both pH with the kit and then compare the results. If it is within the range of both test kits then it will give you the same reading from both.

Also, that nitrate level is right on the edge of too much for safely medicating. You'll want to do daily water changes over the course of the next wk to bring it down. When testing the water, always make sure to do it before a water change, never after. Once the nitrate is down to at least 25 - 30 then I can suggest some meds for you.

Knowing the age of those parrotfish and the size they are and should be, I would also strongly suggest checking the pH in your tap or source water, to see if there is any difference, and if there is, how much. If there is more than .2 difference in pH, keep the water changes to no more than 10% each time to avoid shocking the fish.

Dawn Moneyhan
Aquatics Specialist/Nutritionist
Juneau, WI
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post #18 of 23 Old 03-20-2008, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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so my water parameters are ok?

By floss media do u mean both (rocks and tubes?) Am i changing it or just cleaning it. If im changing it do i change it all or half?

The lower ph was in the previous post. Im using the API kit.
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post #19 of 23 Old 03-20-2008, 05:25 PM
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Rocks and tubes don't get changed. The rocks is a biomedia called Ephimech. The tubes, otherwise referred to as "noodles" don't get changed. The biomedia will break down over time, so you will need to add some more as the level drops. Are there any sponge media or floss (looks like stiff easter grass) in there? What model number is it?

Dawn Moneyhan
Aquatics Specialist/Nutritionist
Juneau, WI
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post #20 of 23 Old 03-22-2008, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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I have the 2215 are these good filters? Ive noticed the flow rate has dropped alot since new as have others in the reviews i have been reading.
I have been told by the LFS to change the media every 6 months or so half at a time.

I have in the there starting from the top is:
Thin carbon pad
2 White pad (use to be 1 i run it with 2 for some reason)
blue pad (i guess this is the easter grass lol )

Is there anything i should add or remove? I some people running such different combinations within the filter and i dont know why.
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