And now I have white spot...*sigh* - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 28 Old 01-18-2010, 08:32 PM
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Agree with everything Angel said. Be sure to vacuum your gravel really well during your pwc. You see, there are 3 steps to the Ich process. First little cysts attack the fish. This is the white spots you are seeing. Second, the white spots fall off the fish as little sacs and land in the gravel. The more you vacuumthe gravel during your pwc the more sacs you remove from the tank. The third stage is where the sac bursts and becoming free-swimming. This is the only stage where the Ich can be killed. This is why it is IMPERATIVE to treat for Ich for 5 days after the last trace of white spots are gone from your fish. As Angel said, I would only treat at half dose with your tetras. I treated at half dose with huge success.
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post #12 of 28 Old 01-19-2010, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
Brilliant thank you both!!! I really don't know what I'd do without this site!
Ok, I think a water change and gravel vac is in order tonight then, and probably water testing as well. I will leave the fry in the breeding box then, as even the youngest are a few weeks old now. Some of my fry are pregnant, as are my female guppies, needless to say! So they will just have to take their chances if they are born in the next few days, I don't have a spare heater and equipment unfortunately.
I only added the treatment last night and the 3 fish which were visibly showing white spots now have considerably less spots, though I guess that could be because they were ready to fall off anyway. No other fish are showing any signs though so fingers crossed!
Thanks again :)
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post #13 of 28 Old 01-19-2010, 01:42 PM
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Great, just hang in there and continue with the treatment. If you dialed up the temperature to 80-82 degrees, I'd suggest you putting in an airstone if you don't already have one. The decreaded white spots doesn't really have anything to do with treatment. They would fall off naturally and land in the gravel. It's once they are free-swimming where the treatment will nip it in the butt The reason you dial up the temperature is because the free-swimming parasites are intolerant of heat.
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post #14 of 28 Old 01-19-2010, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
Oh I see! I actually bought an air pump and stones from ebay a couple of days ago, it should be here soon. I bumped the temperature up to 80.
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post #15 of 28 Old 01-19-2010, 02:11 PM
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I'd hook up the air pump and stone when you get it. It just oxygenates the water for the fish at the slightly higher temperature. They should be fine in the meantime though. Do you have live plants in this tank?
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post #16 of 28 Old 01-19-2010, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
I'll do it as soon as I get the pump. Yes I have about 20 live plants, planning on getting more. While I'm on the subject of plants, is there a general fertiliser or something I can get to help my plants grow? This will be my first planted tank and I really have a lot to learn about aquatic plants! Some are going brown already.
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post #17 of 28 Old 01-19-2010, 02:59 PM
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With the live plants, don't put the air stone in. With live plants there will be enough oxygenation from them. I just bought Flourish due to recommendations from people on this forum. I haven't used it yet, but I am confident it will work well for my plants. If Angel chimes in again, iIm sure she can certainly tell you more regarding your plants..
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post #18 of 28 Old 01-19-2010, 03:43 PM
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2 of my rummy nose died last night One left. My other neon tetras and my glow lights have either no or very few spots so I'm hopeful for them. I know very little about fish, wish I did so I could help advise!
I do know that stuff could discolour ornaments so should be removed before dosing.
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post #19 of 28 Old 01-19-2010, 05:19 PM
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That's a GREAT sign to see less spots already. If left untreated you'd see the spots increase till your whole fish are pretty much covered white. So less spots is awesome news! Keep up the treatment!!!
No air stone needed if you have live plants.

There's 3 things your plants will require one of the most common 'mistakes'
LIGHTs, they need appropriate light and not too high end wattage (~1watt per gallon will do) and then a full spectrum, these lights that work very well for plants can be found at your home store from GE, Phillips, Bright effects they'll be labeled with names such as "daylight or Ultimate daylight" and are rated around 5-6500 Kelvin, which is exactly what you'd want.
Then plants need nutrition to feed off of. Some of which are in your water, some of which are introduced via foods and the last bit would be what fish leave behind after they ate. Now some water sources are awesome just like that for live plants; many in the US however are not and you'd see that as slow growth in the tanks or discolored leaf's on plants. If that then was the case, I'd suggest 1x week all in one comprehensive liquid fertilizer (such as Saechems Flourish) - Only exception being Sword plants they'd like to feed off the roots and pref root sticks / tablets (like from nutrafin or API).
The last bit would be your substrate. Plants don't need no fancy yaddy ya substrate as advertised in the fish store; but they do prefer finer gravel over these large pea or peanut sizes gravels to root down well. So ensure you either have fine gravel or sand.
The next to last step then would be: Select plants LOL; here's where I get mine due to lack of resource locally Sweet Aquatics
Feel free to look around my aquarium log here to the left the 2nd tap for some ideas, I hadn't gone in and labeled all plants in all tanks, so feel free to shoot any questions you may have reg this to my PM inbox

And now I'll quit hijacking the ick thread for a plant thread - But YOU asked lol

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post #20 of 28 Old 01-20-2010, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
Lol, thank you Angel, any info on plants is appreciated as I say I have a lot to learn! Houseplants I'm good with, not aquatic plants though! I'll get some fertiliser soon.
Can I still use the air pump and stone for decorative purposes? It came today.
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