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Need advice quickly - cottonmouth disease.

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Need advice quickly - cottonmouth disease.
Old 03-18-2010, 02:13 PM   #11
 
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Did you change filters or something before all your fish started dying? You may have caused a big minicycle or something. and from what i got out of your post your tank isn't cycled yet? 2 days for cycling isn't close to long enough. Keep the swordtails you have now and don't buy any new fish for a few weeks to a month. Do W/C every other day. Buy a liquid test kit and keep an eye on the ammonia. When thats 0 and doesn't show up again watch the nitrite until that is 0 and nitrate is low. That's just a brief summary of cycling. You can find more info on the forums or google. (:
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Old 03-18-2010, 02:16 PM   #12
 
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i just hope its not the same for you :):):)
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Old 03-18-2010, 03:14 PM   #13
 
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I had my tank running for a little over a week with just danios inside and the algae eater I had left over from my old tank, and they weren't dying, so I brought a sample of the water to get tested and they said the nitrate and ammonia levels were fine and that a few fish could be introduced. I guess not?? I did change the filter cartridge, however this was done after all the other fish in my tank suddenly died after living happily for several months (that happened a few weeks ago.)

I am going to keep doing water changes though and hope it'll improve things for the sword tails..Thank you. :) I will also head up to the petstore to see if they have any testing kits in stock!

edit: also, how much water would you recommend changing per change, austin? and how often? my tank is 30 gallons.

Last edited by sailfin molly; 03-18-2010 at 03:27 PM..
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Old 03-19-2010, 01:44 PM   #14
 
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i would say change around 20% every two days this may help the fish and the tank to cycle :):):)
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Old 03-19-2010, 03:09 PM   #15
 
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Thanks very much! I also wanted to ask about treating swim bladder issues. I think one of my swordtails has something wrong with his, as he seems to sink to the bottom and has trouble staying afloat, but not all the time. He seems fine other than that. I've heard to feed your fish a piece of a pea to relieve this, but I tried and he just ignores the pea. Is there anything else I can do?
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Old 03-19-2010, 03:35 PM   #16
 
I would try some daphnia, either freeze dried or frozen. If you feed freeze dried be sure to rehydrate it before feeding to avoid further digestive problems.
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Old 03-19-2010, 10:04 PM   #17
 
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thanks dramaqueen. The swordtails are doing much better today..They haven't eaten but they've been swimming around much more normally, and no more deaths. :)
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Old 03-19-2010, 10:12 PM   #18
 
I'm glad they're doing better and I hope you have no more deaths.
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Old 03-20-2010, 02:23 AM   #19
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailfin molly View Post
Thank you everyone. With the multitude of information on this site, I'm no longer sure that my fish had columnaris (I probably should have came here first!) But this stuff always seems to happen in the middle of the night when i have no access to medicine other than what I have on hand. I tried a salt bath and then put a bit of melafix in their isolation tank, but the sick mollies died anyway. My swordtails are still alive and don't appear sick, but I'm not sure how long that'll last at the rate things have been going.

I think I'm going to give up on this fishkeeping thing, because I don't know what to do anymore and I hate to see them die when it's my fault..It seems like they are having the same problem as when my other fish from a few months ago died..They just inexplicably become sick and die..I've never seen any sign of outward physical problems other than last night where I was sure I saw something on one of my mollies fins. It's obviously something I'm doing, but I don't know what it is and no matter what advice I get, it doesn't seem to save my fish. :( And I don't think it's my water (in general) because I have two betta fish as well and they are happy as clams.

Do you have a test kit? perhaps fish store would test the water for you if you brought them a sample. Water for livebearer's should be hard and alkaline with pH between 7.5 and 8.0. They do poorly in soft water.Water should test zero for ammonia and nitrites,and nitrates should be no higher than 20 ppm IMO.Water changes should be performed once a week at 25 to 30 percent and replaced with fresh water that is close to same temp of tank and that has been treated with proper dechlorinator. .
Might also consider that fish may be sick when purchased and maybe look for another source if fishes that have died, came from same place.
Temperature for mollies should be between 80 and 84 degrees F . IMO. Swordtails however,,would do better in lower temps with 75 to 77 degrees being comfortable for them along with platy's. Mollys and swordtails need at least twenty gal tank for they are active swimmers especially the swordtails.
Livebearer's are largely herbivores, and need vegetable matter and or spirulina flake for staple portion of their diet.
I might Review water parameters , and see if perhaps someting is needed to improve their chances.
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:16 PM   #20
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailfin molly View Post
I had my tank running for a little over a week with just danios inside and the algae eater I had left over from my old tank, and they weren't dying, so I brought a sample of the water to get tested and they said the nitrate and ammonia levels were fine and that a few fish could be introduced. I guess not?? I did change the filter cartridge, however this was done after all the other fish in my tank suddenly died after living happily for several months (that happened a few weeks ago.)

I am going to keep doing water changes though and hope it'll improve things for the sword tails..Thank you. :) I will also head up to the petstore to see if they have any testing kits in stock!

edit: also, how much water would you recommend changing per change, austin? and how often? my tank is 30 gallons.
Hey,

Pet store employees are usually stupid and shouldn't be trusted. :P

Changing the filter may or may not cause a mini cycle. I think some filters with biowheels and such could be ok. But I wouldn't fish it. You're better off just cleaning the filter in old tank water than replacing it. The main idea of the filter is to catch the larger debris and home beneficial bacteria. If you remove the filter you take a large chunk out of the beneficial bacteria colony in your tank. Which means there's not enough bacteria to convert the ammonia into nitrite and nitrite into nitrate = minicycle.

Anyways, since you have such little stock atm... maybe 25% every day or two would be good. The general rule for cycling is to get a liquid test kit for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Test ammonia and nitrite and when ammonia gets over .25 ppm change 50% water.
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