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Is this Ick?

This is a discussion on Is this Ick? within the Tropical Fish Diseases forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Please help!? She is still the only fish with it as it has not spread. She is acting normal and eating. Just two raised ...

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Old 04-11-2011, 10:16 AM   #11
 
Please help!?
She is still the only fish with it as it has not spread. She is acting normal and eating.
Just two raised white dots on her tail surrounded by some white.
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:13 AM   #12
 
Okay I see a couple more smaller dots on the same platies tail. It looks like Ick so I am going to treat it.

I have API super ick cure and will use it at half strength since I have panda cories but will using this affect the tank cycle? And will it hurt my plants?

Last edited by Neutron; 04-12-2011 at 11:16 AM..
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Old 04-12-2011, 02:25 PM   #13
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neutron View Post
Okay I see a couple more smaller dots on the same platies tail. It looks like Ick so I am going to treat it.

I have API super ick cure and will use it at half strength since I have panda cories but will using this affect the tank cycle? And will it hurt my plants?
From my knowledge, yes, ich treatment can and will kill live plants. I dont know if it will kill off the beneficial bacteria or not.

If you are going that route, half dose is the best bet if you dont want to do the aquarium salt and raisied temp.

Good Luck and keep posting!
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:57 PM   #14
 
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Sorry to hear that.
I am also in the process of treating ick. I am going to get a new heater today to get the tank temp higher, I have been doing the salt treatment and water changes.

But I might go out tonight and get some medicine too.
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:12 PM   #15
 
Ugh, well I didn't put the ick treatment in because my dad thinks I'm paranoid because he can't see any spots on the one fish. I think maybe I'm just seeing new fin/scale growth??
I don't want to put the treatment in until I'm 100% sure.. plus this will sound horrible but the total cost of my plants were over $50 and the two panda cories were $8..
So do I risk the lives of the panda cories and do high temps/salt or risk the lives of my plants with the ick treatment that may actually hurt the panda cories too??!!!
I won't do anything until I am 100% sure what the white is.. so now is the time to get opinions on this!
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:21 PM   #16
 
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One Rainbow fish I had had one ich spot and I used kosher salt. What is your hesitation with salt? The spot was immediately gone, but I continued to treat for the 10 days (actually I was a a couple days short of 10 days, but it was gone). Never spread to any other fish. I also did not have a QT tank. Yes, you need to be careful about dosage with certain fish (perhaps someone with knowledge can weigh in here about your types of fish) but salt seems really effective, it's very cheap and my plants were not harmed by salt. Plants show some wear, but do recover when it's removed. I'm sold on salt. Seems extremely effective for all sorts of things. Also, raising your temp is very important.

Gwen
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:53 PM   #17
 
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The safest method for your plants and fish is to do the higher tank temp and to use aquarium salt. Half dose the salt if the pandas are of concern.

There was a link somewhere here on TFK by Lupin on the proper dosage of salt to treat...I will try and locate it as it went into detail on partial dosage as well. If I find it, I will come back with the link.
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Old 04-12-2011, 07:59 PM   #18
 
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Found it...I am copying & pasting it from the thread (posted by Lupin...hope he doesnt mind me re-sharing)...I will also include the link the whole thread if you want to take a look at it...its about goldfish, but the method applies still....

White Spot Disease (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis)
Synonyms:

Ich, Ick

Symptoms:
Early signs of white spot begin when fish flick themselves against rocks. They may also swimming in an odd behaviour as if they were trying to use the water to wash away an irritation. Some of the more common causes are stress, bad water conditions, live food that have been infected by the pathogens or already infected fish without quarantining it.

Description:
Ich is a protozoal infection that afflicts fish and can rapidly kill them, most often by damaging gill tissue. It is highly infectious and potentially lethal and manifests as tiny white spots all over the fish. The spots are no larger than grains of salt. The wide host range of this parasite is its life cycle, and speed of multiplication especially in a tropical aquarium. When you see the white spot on your fish, it is already too late for those ich particles to be avoided.

The organisms, trophonts goes through a life cycle of a small white spot feeding on your fish which drops off to the floor of your tank and encases itself in a cyst called tomont. While encased in a cyst, it divides into up to 2000 new mobile organisms called theronts. The cyst then ruptures, thus releasing the theronts which seek out a host to feed into. They must locate a host within 24 hours otherwise they will die. Only the mobile stage is vulnerable to treatments.

Ich will appear if the fish is stressed. Note that it acts more as a 'contaminant' and is not part of the tank's ecosystem. Any new fish should be quarantined for 2-4 weeks. Failing that will increase the risk of introducing diseases which wil affect other occupants. New fish are always possible carriers of diseases.

Treatment:
Salt
Instructions
Increase the temperature to at least 84-86 degrees as much as the fish can tolerate. Add aquarium or table salt (dissolved in water) at a ratio of 1-3 teaspoons of salt per gallon of water in your tank equivalent to 0.1-0.3% depending on the tolerance level of your fish.

For basic procedures, here are the steps.
1. Dose one teaspoon per gallon of salt or equivalent to 0.1%.
2. After 12 hours and assuming the fish has tolerated it very wellso far, repeat step 1.
3. After another 12 hours, repeat step 1 again.

While waiting, it does not hurt to add a powerhead or airstone to increase the oxygen level. Over the first couple days, your fish will appear worse and will eventually recover as the treatment progresses. In most cases, ich will disappear on the sixth day. However, there is still a probability that some cysts have not yet ruptured so it is advisable to keep the treatment up for full ten days.

If you are not able to raise the temperature at all especially if you are dealing with fish that lack tolerance for temperature above 80 degrees Fahrenheit, you may need to extend the treatment although a good general guideline is to continue 7-10 more days of treatment right after the ich had seemingly disappeared.. At 85 degrees Fahrenheit, the life cycle of ich is quicker. The colder the temperature, the slower the life cycle thus the treatment will extend even longer than required.

Level of Tolerance
For bottom dwellers such as plecos and loaches, you may need to maintain the saline solution at 0.1-0.2% so it will not be detrimental to them although there have been few instances where some catfishes can tolerate as much as 0.3%.

Do make sure your fish can tolerate the elevated saline solution. If in doubt, be prepared to do a water change to relieve the fish of the osmotic stress caused by the salt. Try not to lose focus on the actual saline solution you already administered or you might end up overdosing the salt more than it was necessary.

Clown loaches and young oscars are notorious for getting ich after they are transferred to your tank. These and many others can tolerate salt. If you are unsure about your fish’s tolerance for salt, be sure to look for answers in a reference book or ask an expert.

A salt test kit available at your local fish store will help you get the exact dosage. Something in the range of .2%, is where you want to be.

Water Changes vs. Salt
Should a water change be necessary, make sure you redose the salt solution per the water volume replaced.

For example, a 10g needs 30 teaspoons at 3 teaspoons per gallon of water measurement. If you wish to change at least 50% of the water, then another 15 teaspoons of salt should be redosed to keep the saline solution effective against the parasites.

Teaspoon vs. Tablespoon Measurement
For those not familiar with the teaspoon = tablespoon conversion, a leveled heap of tablespoon is equivalent to 3 teaspoons whereas a round heap of tablespoon is equivalent to 5 teaspoons.

In Australian standard, a tablespoon is equivalent to four teaspoons so please adjust the necessary dosage as much as possible.

Plants Goners Or Not?
Unfortunately many plants do not do well with this salt treatment and may appear to wither but will usually come back in time once the salt treatment is over. Removing them to a salt free environment after a thorough rinsing may save them, however they must be kept at a high temperature or for an extended period of time. When the cyst breaks up in the plant holding tank, the small parasites will be unable to find a host and will die within 24-72 hours depending on the environmental conditions. Ich is easily transferred to other fish tanks so do not share nets, heaters and wet hands between infected and non infected tanks.

Mutual Relationship of Bacteria vs. Ich
Abstract explaining the presence of endosymbiotic bacteria within ich and bacteria with mutual relationship towards ich developing its infective capability can be found here.
http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=20210

Other Treatments:
Malachite Green, Formalin

Do NOT combine formalin and salt.

Check this list for contraindications of the above treatments.
http://monsterfishkeepers.com/forums...d.php?t=295289

Authors:
Lupin
Anythingfish
ChileRelleno
Guppy
SkepticalAquarist.com
Tokis-Phoenix

Discussion Thread:
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/fo...ad.php?t=20681

Read more: Goldfish with ICK - Need Help!!
Goldfish with ICK - Need Help!!
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:03 PM   #19
 
Okay! Thank you! Thank you! THANK YOU!!! I am going to start this tomorrow morning!!
I am always so hesitant and paranoid! Thank god for this forum or I wouldn't even have the fish lol
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:16 PM   #20
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neutron View Post
Okay! Thank you! Thank you! THANK YOU!!! I am going to start this tomorrow morning!!
I am always so hesitant and paranoid! Thank god for this forum or I wouldn't even have the fish lol
You're welcome, any time.
Its good to be hesitant and paranoid, it means you are a good fish keeper.
Yeah, I think this forum has saved many of fishies! I can only hope it will be of the same value when I get my Leucistic Axolotl (not a fish, a salamander, but still aquatic, lol) next month.

Keep us posted on your platy's health, we will be here to guide you if you need us. Good Luck.
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