Ich, uggghh - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #1 of 18 Old 09-12-2011, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Ich, uggghh

1. Size of tank? 55g

2. Water parameters
a. Ammonia? 0
b. Nitrite? 0
c. Nitrate? 5-10
d. pH, KH and GH?

ph 6.0-6.4
KH 0-40
GH 60

e. Test kit? API master and API test strips for the KH/GH

3. Temperature? 78

4. FW (fresh water) or BW (brackish)? FW

5. How long the aquarium has been set up? 2-3 months

6. What fish do you have? How many are in your tank? How big are they? How long have you had them?

Rainbows: 8 of various species and mostly 2 inches long
Denisons barb: 3 around 2 inches
Cherry Barb 5
Neon Tetra 10
Mystery Snail 2
Corys (matae, agassi, schwartz, Leopard) 10
Malyasian Trumpet Snails

I just added the Neons probably where this came from.


7. Were the fish placed under quarantine period (minus the first batch from the point wherein the tank is ready to accommodate the inhabitants)?

NO ><

8. a. Any live plants? Fake plants? Swords Vals Floating Java Fern and Moss
b. Sand, gravel, barebottom? Sand
c. Rocks, woods, fancy decors? Any hollow decors? Wood and Rocks

9. a. Filtration? Fluval 305
b. Heater? Idk what kind but just 1

10. a. Lighting schedule? What lights are used? about 12 hours a day, 4 T8 bulbs
b. Any sunlight exposure? How long? Minimal (what comes through curtains)

11. a. Water change schedule? Weekly
b. Volume of water changed? 40-50%
c. Well water, tap water, RO water? Tap water
d. Water conditioner used? Prime
e. Frequency of gravel/sand (if any) vacuumed? No

12. Foods? Tetra Crisps, Blood Worms, Omega One flakes, Sinking Shrimp Pellets
How often are they fed? Twice a day

13. a. Any abnormal signs/symptoms? Just those tiny white spots
b. Appearance of poop? Normal
c. Appearance of gills? Normal

14. a. Have you treated your fish ahead of diagnosis? I turned the Temp up
b. What meds were used? None

15. Insert photos of fish in question and full tank shot if necessary.



I just noticed one of my rainbows looked odd so i got up really close and basically all my fish have ICH, didnt get a close look at the cories tho.

Need a treatment method, since i have cories inverts and plants.
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post #2 of 18 Old 09-12-2011, 07:59 PM
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If you lose any you can have a few of mine. I have some cories, rasboras, and cherry barbs.
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post #3 of 18 Old 09-12-2011, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Im trying to get the cherry barbs out of this tank lol they are pretty fish but not really what i want for this. never dealt with ich before but i think its pretty easily treated and hopefully i wont lose any of the fish
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post #4 of 18 Old 09-12-2011, 08:26 PM
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Haha I was hoping you didn't need the cherry barbs. I like them.


I want more dojo loaches so I wanted to move the cories. Just don't have room for them.
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post #5 of 18 Old 09-12-2011, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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if i didnt have this ich problem i would trade you for sure haha
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post #6 of 18 Old 09-12-2011, 08:54 PM
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Oh I have enough cherries.


If you want a couple Cories LMK. In a 55 you can have a ton of them.
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post #7 of 18 Old 09-13-2011, 10:28 AM
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Came to this thread via your PM to me, so here's my recommendation. Pick up a bottle of Coppersafe (made by Mardel). Then do a 50% water change (unless one was done yesterday or today already). Raise the temp to 85F, you can do this a bit with the water change (introduce warmer replacement water that is about half way between current temp and 85F) and turn up the heater. Add the recommended dose of Coppersafe. Leave the tank for one week, on day 7 turn the heater back down to normal and leave the tank to cool naturally. On day 10 do a 50% water change as normal and continue from there.

This has worked for me when ich was really bad, and with very sensitive fish including 35+ corys. Usually if I just see a bit of flashing and maybe a spot or two on one fish, I leave things alone and the fish manage to fight it off naturally. But when stress has weakened the fish (as acquiring new fish will) and it shows as you describe on several fish, treatment is necessary.

If live plants are in the tank, do not use any fertilizers after the initial water change and throughout the treatment period. I have found that plants are much less affected by the Coppersafe if other fertilizers have not been added. I would resume liquid fertilization after the second water change following treatment, i.e., not after the two changes mentioned in the above.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #8 of 18 Old 09-13-2011, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Is the coppersafe ok with the snails? I seem to remember it will kill them?
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post #9 of 18 Old 09-13-2011, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patadams66 View Post
Is the coppersafe ok with the snails? I seem to remember it will kill them?
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It might. I have had pond snails and Malaysian Livebearing snails live through it, though the latter seemed fewer. Take some out and keep them in another tank, or even in a jar of water with a plant and some gravel, just in case, so you will have some to restock.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #10 of 18 Old 09-13-2011, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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ok i did all that was asked of me. hopefully this works :(
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