Ich treatment progress.... - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 20 Old 11-25-2008, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have a hospital tank so I'll start looking for one on craigslist now. What size should it be for seven clowns? They are all 2 inches, except for one who is 3 inches.
If I can't quickly find what I need on craigslist would an Eclipse 10 suffice?? Too small?? Use some substrate and also remove some bio balls from my current tank to speed up the cycle in the new tank?

The list required to set up this tank would include: a tank, a heater, a filter, hood w/ a light. Anything else? I assume I'd leave it bare-bottomed but some driftwood for the loaches comfort??

I'll have to break down the entire tank in order to net the loaches. Man, what a mess...

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post #12 of 20 Old 11-25-2008, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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After some quick browsing: Nothing on craislist but did read where Tyyrlym posts "Something non-reactive that holds water will do just fine. I'm using a 15 gallon clear rubbermaid tub."

I'll use this idea unless something else becomes available between now & tomorrow. Sound ok??

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post #13 of 20 Old 11-25-2008, 11:56 PM
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That sounds fine. Actually, skip the light. The dark will help keep them calm, and as the ich needs light to survive the darker the better. It should just need a heater and if possible, a filter from your main tank moved over. If you aren't running any other filters, a cheap HOB stuffed full of media from your wet/dry should be ok. Just keep an eye on the water parameters.

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post #14 of 20 Old 11-26-2008, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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I just went out and bought a heater tonight and an Eclipse 12. I'll return the Eclipse and get a rubbermaid tub instead. I'll pull off the extra H.O.T Magnum that I run on my main tank and use that as a filter on the tub.
Thanks so much for the advice & help. Truly appreciate it!

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post #15 of 20 Old 11-26-2008, 05:38 AM
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Did you dissolve salt thoroughly and add gradually? If not, they are at a risk suffering from osmotic shock. Loaches in particular are prone to this. I never had issues treating my own loaches, catfishes and a few others with table salt last time they were struck down by ich.
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post #16 of 20 Old 11-26-2008, 10:05 AM
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Moving the loaches to a seperate tank isn't a guarantee to cure yourself of ich. While ich doesn't have a "dormant" stage that will wait for months they suddenly erupt and reinffect all your fish you can have unnoticed parasites on the other fish that can continue the ich life cycle. If you don't treat your main tank there is a very good chance that you'll have another outbreak of ich down the line.

My advice is this, run your temp up a bit higher than normal. A few degrees won't hurt the fish but it will accelerate the parasites life cycle. If you keep it at 78 normally run it up into the low eighties, 82-84. Now treat your whole tank with the meds. After you no longer see any visible cysts on your fish keep treating, you want to continue treating at full strength for at least three days at a minimum, five days preferably and seven if you're really paranoid.

Once your tank is clear it should remain so. From now on use that quarantine tank on any new fish. QT for at least four weeks. That gives any diseases or parasites the fish might have time to flare up and become obvious.

Read up on this website. Best source of ich info I've ever seen. The Skeptical Aquarist

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post #17 of 20 Old 11-26-2008, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupin View Post
Did you dissolve salt thoroughly and add gradually? If not, they are at a risk suffering from osmotic shock. Loaches in particular are prone to this. I never had issues treating my own loaches, catfishes and a few others with table salt last time they were struck down by ich.
Yes, I used fully dissolved API Aquarium Salt and used a slow drip method to add it into the tank. The last salt addition was on 11/13 so I'm fairly confident osmotic shock isn't occuring. This morning I notice only one visible cyst on one clown.

Tyyrlym: That link you sent is the exact link I've used as an information resource since all this ich began. I've been running the tank at 85 degrees since 11/13, which is 13 days. There is a blurb in that article about some fish having immunity after being treated with meds. I can't help but think that the other fish in the tank may have developed immunity somewhere down the line. Since I have not had them since birth and purchased them at half their potential size who knows what prior illness & medication treatments may have had??

I wish I understood my complete reluctance to treat the main tank with meds...instinctively something in my gut tells me not to treat the main tank with meds at this point in time. Either way I've decided to keep the Eclipse 12. It'll be a nice hospital/QT tank to keep on hand.

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Last edited by aunt kymmie; 11-26-2008 at 10:44 AM. Reason: after thought....
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post #18 of 20 Old 11-26-2008, 11:13 AM
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In most cases treating your entire tank with meds IS the exact wrong thing to do. In this case it is the appropriate treatment however. Look at it this way, if you treat the tank properly and wipe out the ich infestation then QT all new arrivals the chances of having to deal with this again is very, very low.

When it comes to QT there are two types of people. Those who QT and those who haven't yet had the privilege of watching half their fish die because the new addition had something. Always QT your fish. Setting up a QT tank costs a few bucks but to me that's small potatoes compared to the assurance that when fish go into my display tank they are healthy and won't be infecting the rest of my fish with something.

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post #19 of 20 Old 11-26-2008, 08:12 PM
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If there are still parasites on the fish, then they will still be in the tank. In this case quarantining the visible affected fish is not going to help. You may have to try an ick medication that contains malachite green. I'm not an expert on how specific species of fish will react to it, but if anyone can point out any that would not react well (feel free to chime in now anyone!) you could always move them to the eclipse and treat them separately with the high temps and salt. If you choose to use the medication I would take the plants out as they will just die anyway and pollute the water. It's a real bummer, but it may be time to bring out the big guns.

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20 gallon long:2 freshwater dwarf puffers (Puff Puff and Poofer); medium-light planted tank
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10 gallon: 1 male betta named Dante; low light planted tank
2, 5.5 gallon tanks that are currently empty (I see more fish on the horizon )
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post #20 of 20 Old 11-29-2008, 12:14 AM
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Just so that people understand why I made the QT suggestion:

I realize that once you have visible signs of ich in the tank, you have it all over your tank, but her other, non-infected fish were suffering because of the high temps and possibly salt content. I merely suggested moving the fish and continuing treatment in QT so that she could get her main display back to normal temperatures and salinity (gradually, of course) to prevent further ich treatment-induced problems in the display. I'm also not sure medicating the display tank is the answer at this point, as your other fish weakened by the salt/heat treatment may be further stressed by being medicated and may not survive.

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