Ich: Time to switch treatment?
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Ich: Time to switch treatment?

This is a discussion on Ich: Time to switch treatment? within the Tropical Fish Diseases forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> I've got two platies down with ich right now in QT, and I've been treating them with salt since Monday. One fish is kind ...

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Ich: Time to switch treatment?
Old 01-22-2010, 12:02 PM   #1
 
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Exclamation Ich: Time to switch treatment?

I've got two platies down with ich right now in QT, and I've been treating them with salt since Monday. One fish is kind of happy go lucky, swimming around at the back of the tank, and the other fish is hunkered down and "gasping" in the corner. The second fish has more spots on him than the first, and I'm thinking he has ich on his gills now. I've seen no improvement in his condition for the past three days.

Is it time to turn to a medication? if so, please reccomend something that has worked for you in the past.
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Old 01-22-2010, 12:23 PM   #2
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by La Reina View Post
I've got two platies down with ich right now in QT, and I've been treating them with salt since Monday. One fish is kind of happy go lucky, swimming around at the back of the tank, and the other fish is hunkered down and "gasping" in the corner. The second fish has more spots on him than the first, and I'm thinking he has ich on his gills now. I've seen no improvement in his condition for the past three days.

Is it time to turn to a medication? if so, please reccomend something that has worked for you in the past.
I would personally use 1 tablespoon of salt per gallon of water, and medicate. I like Quick Cure for classic cases of ich. Dose as instructed, for the full duration of the instructions.
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Old 01-22-2010, 12:26 PM   #3
 
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1 TABLEspoon per gallon? I was told 1 tablespoon per five...?
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Old 01-22-2010, 01:05 PM   #4
 
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I used Rid Ich with huge success. I did not add salt during my treatment though. People on this forum have also used Quick Cure with success.
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Old 01-22-2010, 04:58 PM   #5
 
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by La Reina View Post
1 TABLEspoon per gallon? I was told 1 tablespoon per five...?
Could someone please confirm this dosage? In digging through the internet I have found many variations on the dosing of salt for ich treatment. Should I bump up my salt treatment to three teaspoons per gallon?
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Old 01-22-2010, 06:07 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by La Reina View Post
Could someone please confirm this dosage? In digging through the internet I have found many variations on the dosing of salt for ich treatment. Should I bump up my salt treatment to three teaspoons per gallon?
Keep in mind, many experienced aquarists have very different methods of handling these issues. Because you are talking about livebearers, I am very comfortable using 1 tablespoon per gallon. If it were Tetras, then i would not use salt at all. This comes from personal experience. Most internet threads or references are going to tell you 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons as a nice medium. I'd rather be specific for the situation you are in.
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Old 01-22-2010, 06:29 PM   #7
 
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Mom picked up some Ick Guard (by Jungle) and I've just dosed the tank, the other guy isn't looking too good, i'm hoping it isn't too late for him. Boy, they weren't kidding when they said this stuff stains.
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Old 01-22-2010, 07:29 PM   #8
 
Just make sure you go by the instructions and do the full treatment. The ich treatment should get it with out the salt.
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:54 AM   #9
 
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The sicker of the two died last night. And the silicone in my tank is now blue.
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Old 01-24-2010, 12:55 AM   #10
 
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Ugh! Meds are a lot harsher than salt. Salt is the gentlest ich treatment.

A tablespoon is equivalent to 3 teaspoons. Same dosage I use.

Here's my article on ich.

White Spot Disease
Synonyms:

Ich, Ick

Symptoms:
Early signs of white spot begin when fish flick themselves against rocks. They may also swimming in an odd behaviour as if they were trying to use the water to wash away an irritation. Some of the more common causes are stress, bad water conditions, live food that have been infected by the pathogens or already infected fish without quarantining it.

Description:
Ich is a protozoal infection that afflicts fish and can rapidly kill them, most often by damaging gill tissue. It is highly infectious and potentially lethal and manifests as tiny white spots all over the fish. The spots are no larger than grains of salt. The wide host range of this parasite is its life cycle, and speed of multiplication especially in a tropical aquarium. When you see the white spot on your fish, it is already too late for those ich particles to be avoided.

The organisms, trophonts goes through a life cycle of a small white spot feeding on your fish which drops off to the floor of your tank and encases itself in a cyst called tomont. While encased in a cyst, it divides into up to 2000 new mobile organisms called theronts. The cyst then ruptures, thus releasing the theronts which seek out a host to feed into. They must locate a host within 24 hours otherwise they will die. Only the mobile stage is vulnerable to treatments.

Ich will appear if the fish is stressed. Note that it acts more as a 'contaminant' and is not part of the tank's ecosystem. Any new fish should be quarantined for 2-4 weeks. Failing that will increase the risk of introducing diseases which wil affect other occupants. New fish are always possible carriers of diseases.

Treatment:
Salt
Increase the temperature to at least 84-86 degrees as much as the fish can tolerate. Add aquarium or table salt (dissolved in water) at a ratio of 1-3 teaspoons of salt per gallon of water in your tank equivalent to 0.1-0.3% depending on the tolerance level of your fish.

For basic procedures, here are the steps.
1. Dose one teaspoon per gallon of salt or equivalent to 0.1%.
2. After 12 hours and assuming the fish has tolerated it very wellso far, repeat step 1.
3. After another 12 hours, repeat step 1 again.

For bottom dwellers such as plecos and loaches, you may need to maintain the saline solution at 0.1-0.2% so it will not be detrimental to them although there have been few instances where some catfishes can tolerate as much as 0.3%.

Do make sure your fish can tolerate the elevated saline solution. If in doubt, be prepared to do a water change to relieve the fish of the osmotic stress caused by the salt. Try not to lose focus on the actual saline solution you already administered or you might end up overdosing the salt more than it was necessary. Should a water change be necessary, make sure you redose the salt solution per the water volume replaced.

For example, a 10g needs 30 teaspoons at 3 teaspoons per gallon of water measurement. If you wish to change at least 50% of the water, then another 15 teaspoons of salt should be redosed to keep the saline solution effective against the parasites.

For those not familiar with the teaspoon = tablespoon conversion, a round heap of tablespoon is equivalent to 3 teaspoons.

While waiting, it does not hurt to add a powerhead or airstone to increase the oxygen level. Over the first couple days, your fish will appear worse and will eventually recover as the treatment progresses. In most cases, ich will disappear on the sixth day. However, there is still a probability that some cysts have not yet ruptured so it is advisable to keep the treatment up for full ten days.

If you are not able to raise the temperature at all especially if you are dealing with fish that lack tolerance for temperature above 80 degrees Fahrenheit, you may need to extend the treatment although a good general guideline is to continue 7-10 more days of treatment right after the ich had seemingly disappeared.. At 85 degrees Fahrenheit, the life cycle of ich is quicker. The colder the temperature, the slower the life cycle thus the treatment will extend even longer than required.

Unfortunately many plants do not do well with this salt treatment and may appear to wither but will usually come back in time once the salt treatment is over. Removing them to a salt free environment after a thorough rinsing may save them, however they must be kept at the high temperature or for an extended period of time. When the cyst breaks up in the plant holding tank, the small parasites will be unable to find a host and will die within 24-48 hours. Ich is easily transferred to other fish tanks so do not share nets, heaters and wet hands between infected and non infected tanks.

Clown loaches and young oscars are notorious for getting ich after they are transferred to your tank. These and many others can tolerate salt. If you are unsure about your fish’s tolerance for salt, be sure to look for answers in a reference book or ask an expert.

A salt test kit available at your local fish store will help you get the exact dosage. Something in the range of .2%, is where you want to be.

Other Treatments:
Malachite Green, Formalin
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