I've treated for ick but now their fins are rotting....did I treat it wrong?!! - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 19 Old 08-16-2010, 10:29 AM
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Be right back, getting the popcorn.
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post #12 of 19 Old 08-16-2010, 10:32 AM
very funny jtormy get me a coke while your there hehehehe

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post #13 of 19 Old 08-16-2010, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by kitten_penang View Post
so sorry i snapped it has been rough since my fish died loss money met in an accident this morning to say the least.it was kept for 3 years and i got him when he was roughly 2 cm and i paid 800 for that fish.kept it with me 3 years like a puppy not to mention he was a fish kept for luck.the post just got to me. anyway i forgot to tell him to make sure there was no ich meds let in the tank before treating with fungus meds thats my mistake but i did tell him to dose it in the right amount and to do that he needed to read the booklet contained within on the usage page.
I'm sorry bout your fish. I lost a runt Marlboro Discus that I had for nearly three years and despite all my efforts, I was unable to save it.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #14 of 19 Old 08-16-2010, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Tests

Hi everyone!
So I ran some tests on my water.
pH = 7.5
total alkalinity = 120 ppm (mg/L)
total hardness = 150 (hard)
Nitrite = 3
Nitrate = 0

This is done using Mardel 5 in 1 test strips. I tested the ammonia levels with a seperate test with the API ammonia NH3/NH4+ (that has the test tube and two solutions to test). I forgot to add that, since I have a 28 gallon tank and I'm also currently using an aquaclear 50 power filter on my tank as well. I do daily 20-25% water changes before adding more ich medicne as stated in the directions and kept my temperature up and stable as well. Today i added some aquarium salt and dissolved it in water before slowly adding it to the tank.

Last edited by surfnchk; 08-16-2010 at 05:16 PM.
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post #15 of 19 Old 08-17-2010, 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by surfnchk View Post
Hi everyone!
So I ran some tests on my water.
pH = 7.5
total alkalinity = 120 ppm (mg/L)
total hardness = 150 (hard)
Nitrite = 3
Nitrate = 0

This is done using Mardel 5 in 1 test strips. I tested the ammonia levels with a seperate test with the API ammonia NH3/NH4+ (that has the test tube and two solutions to test). I forgot to add that, since I have a 28 gallon tank and I'm also currently using an aquaclear 50 power filter on my tank as well. I do daily 20-25% water changes before adding more ich medicne as stated in the directions and kept my temperature up and stable as well. Today i added some aquarium salt and dissolved it in water before slowly adding it to the tank.

Nitrites at levels you posted are toxic,(deadly) and I would perform larger daily water changes while continuing the ICH medication.
Would set temp at 82 degrees F and add an airstone to help increase dissolved oxygen which is depleted at higher temps.
Would withold feedings while medicating the fish or offer very tiny amount an hour before your next water change. (if fish are eating)
In two month old cycled tank, there should be zero ammonia,and nitrites,and there should be some detectable nitrAtes. Something has in my view wiped out the biological filter if the tank was indeed cycled at some point.
In any event,a little larger daily water changes perhaps 50 percent,, will be needed until the biological filter has once more been established.
I would also purchase a water conditioner such as PRIME or AMQUEL+ both of which will detoxify ammonia,and nitrites along with chlorine and chloramines.
Would not clean or replace filter material for the next month as most of the good bacteria needed for biological filter will be found in the filter.
As long as you are getting readings above zero for ammonia and nitrites,daily water changes of fifty pecent and followed by re-dosing of ICH meds for time indicated will be needed. IMHO

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #16 of 19 Old 08-17-2010, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the great advice! I've got the biomax ammonia remover with the foam thing in my aquaclear. I'll try the 50% water change instead of the 25% every day and see if that works. A few of my fish are still eating which is a good sign. I'm hoping that this will work :) I'm also keeping the temp at a steady 82 F. When I first started the tank i waited 2 weeks before adding fish and ran tests on the water so I'm not sure what went wrong. Only added 1-2 fish every 3 weeks. I'll keep everyone posted! Thank you everyone!
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post #17 of 19 Old 08-17-2010, 03:10 PM
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If you have nitrite, you probably have ammonia, and ammonia can cause the fins to 'burn away'.

Do water changes, and test frequestly. When ammonia and nitrites are 0, THEN consider treating with meds.

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post #18 of 19 Old 08-22-2010, 10:17 PM
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Remember when you up the water changes from what is recommended by the medicine's manufacturer you have to do a little math to make sure that the medicines concentrations increase as the manufacturer intended. If you remove one quarter of the meds with the manufacturers suggested water change and you decide for other reasons even good ones to take out half the meds with a water change you need to add back in the lost quarter with the next dose.
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post #19 of 19 Old 08-23-2010, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your suggestions. I got rid of the ick and have my water under control. I bought a master kit which is way better than those horrible strip tests. I got my ammonia, nitrite and nitrates under control and continue to do frequent water changes as directions of the medication.

Unfortunately after the ick (since I think I caught it too late) I've lost many fish and they caught a secondary bacterial disease Columnaris which I'm currently treating for as well. Thanks to everyone who replied back and helped me and my fish :)
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