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High nitrate

This is a discussion on High nitrate within the Tropical Fish Diseases forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Many folks on the site do 50% weekly water changes. I do 30-50% depending on how my back feels on that particular day. If ...

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Old 05-03-2013, 10:40 AM   #11
 
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Many folks on the site do 50% weekly water changes. I do 30-50% depending on how my back feels on that particular day. If you read about discus fish care, you'll see that some people change out most of the water every day. As I mentioned earlier, your tap water, properly conditioned, could be a very good alternative to purchasing special water. For the sake of convenience and your wallet, checking that possibility could be a real boon to you and your tanks.
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:03 AM   #12
 
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Many folks on the site do 50% weekly water changes. I do 30-50% depending on how my back feels on that particular day. If you read about discus fish care, you'll see that some people change out most of the water every day. As I mentioned earlier, your tap water, properly conditioned, could be a very good alternative to purchasing special water. For the sake of convenience and your wallet, checking that possibility could be a real boon to you and your tanks.
The water I purchase is only 30 cents a gallon. For tap water I'd have to buy conditioner..


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Old 05-03-2013, 12:22 PM   #13
 
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I change 80% of my water. You can safely change 100% as long as the tank water chemistry is similar to the your source water chemistry. The concern with old tank syndrome is that the water chemistry in the tank becomes very different than your source, so doing a large change would cause the fish shock. It would be best to slowly build up to that.

A 500 ml bottle of prime water conditioner cost $12 on amazon, and treats 5,000 gallons of water, which breaks down to $0.0024 per gallon (a quarter of a penny....) - that plus the cost of the water itself is WAY cheaper than buying water from the store.
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:04 PM   #14
 
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At this point I would agree. Small frequent water changes are best at this point. If you did a major water change it could shock/stress the fish. Also even with you using spring water a conditioner would help with nitrates.
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:21 PM   #15
 
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Ill try to email the water store to see if they can tell me all the levels of their water.


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Old 05-05-2013, 10:15 PM   #16
 
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Phew, ok well here's an update. I did go and buy top fin conditioner, and started tap water, I can get it from the bathtub, right? I've been doing daily 30% water changes and getting any dead leaves out. One fish is a little stressed but others seem fine, I hope. The test still shows 160 ppm nitrate, I've been doing water changes for 3 days In a row.. Ill continue with them for he whole week and then test again.



I've never done so much so often so close together before, I accidentally for the first time ever sucked in a fish and didn't notice... Poor girl had a red head and died.. Then I sucked up a frog, but quickly got her out. She is fine now.







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Old 05-05-2013, 10:28 PM   #17
 
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Phew, ok well here's an update. I did go and buy top fin conditioner, and started tap water, I can get it from the bathtub, right? I've been doing daily 30% water changes and getting any dead leaves out. One fish is a little stressed but others seem fine, I hope. The test still shows 160 ppm nitrate, I've been doing water changes for 3 days In a row.. Ill continue with them for he whole week and then test again.



I've never done so much so often so close together before, I accidentally for the first time ever sucked in a fish and didn't notice... Poor girl had a red head and died.. Then I sucked up a frog, but quickly got her out. She is fine now.

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Its fine getting it out the bathtub faucet.
Have been vacuuming the substrate any at all?
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:54 PM   #18
 
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Have been vacuuming the substrate any at all?
I've been vacuuming the gravel in 29 gallon but my 20 gallon has sand. I was told I didn't have to clean it if I got Cory catfish, I have3. But ya, I still get what poop and junk I can from the sand. I at least don't stress about it as much as I did without the catfish.


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Old 05-06-2013, 10:21 AM   #19
 
IMHO in order to get nitrates down you have to increase the consumers of those nitrates.

Small frequent water changes or larger less frequent can and will results in nitrates in the red on the api test kit (160ppm or so) when there are insufficient nitrate consumers to keep up with nitrate production.

I would add plants, reduce feedings and let the system consume the nitrates. Eventually they will drop down to unmeasureable levels.

Of course then 3 weeks later you will get cyano. But that is easy enough to correct by adjusting lighting and feeding.

If you fish eat the plants then wet up some kind or protection for the plants or use an algae turf scrubber.


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Old 05-06-2013, 10:26 AM   #20
 
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IMHO in order to get nitrates down you have to increase the consumers of those nitrates.

Small frequent water changes or larger less frequent can and will results in nitrates in the red on the api test kit (160ppm or so) when there are insufficient nitrate consumers to keep up with nitrate production.

I would add plants, reduce feedings and let the system consume the nitrates. Eventually they will drop down to unmeasureable levels.

Of course then 3 weeks later you will get cyano. But that is easy enough to correct by adjusting lighting and feeding.

If you fish eat the plants then wet up some kind or protection for the plants or use an algae turf scrubber.


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I actually do have quite a few plants and plan to get more. I have 3 types currently in there and no fake plants. In my 20 gallon that is. In the 29 I have silk plants because my goldfish eat all the real plants.

I decently feed less than I used to and am doing, til the nitrates go down, daily 30%+ water changes.

What is cynado?


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