Help! Algae AND Ammonia - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 14 Old 04-23-2008, 01:34 PM
Cut back on the amount you feed too. If necessary, feed less food more often. This will make sure that all of the food is eaten. You could also add live plants to compete wit the algae for nutrients.
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post #12 of 14 Old 05-08-2008, 07:25 AM
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does anyone think small bioload will prolong cycling in this particular tank?

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #13 of 14 Old 06-19-2008, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by herefishy
The best thing one can do to help reduce the ammonia is water changes, good tank maintenance, and proper basic care. I do not like using chemicals at all in my tanks, unless absolutely necessary. I don't even use carbon in my filters. Balance must be achieved in the biotope without the use of gimmicks and chemicals. Filtration and maintenance are key in keeping a tank healthy.

The tank has a problem. Fix the cause, or problem, instead of treating the symptoms. Fix the problem and the symptoms go away. Don't fix the problem and you'll be fighting the symptoms forever. It may cost more initially, but you'll save money in the long run.
I've given it a few months, no change, PH stays the same (safe), Ammonia is sitting at .1 ppm and instead of scaly algae, its more of a slimy looking bright green algae. Any thoughts?

PS- no fish in tank anymore, he was eating the plants since I was feeding him less, had to get rid of him. Water in my area is terrible, am I going to have to get 75 gallons of distilled water and start from scratch?
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post #14 of 14 Old 06-19-2008, 03:26 PM
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It's actually good there's no fish in the tank, it will give you a chance to get everything under control before adding life.

Is there ammonia in your tap water? It sorta sounds like there might be. I'd do a full check of your tap water parameters for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. It would also probably be helpful to check for phosphates, but it's sorta silly to buy a $10 test for that. Perhaps your LFS will check it for free. Just make sure you're using liquid tests, not test strips. Also, what is your pH exactly? 'safe' is a relative term as some fish thrive in a pH of 9 whereas others can't handle anything over 6.5.

As for buying distilled water, you won't necessarily need to do that, but if your tap water has ammonia or nitrites, you'll have to find an alternative. You can just use regular spring water instead of distilled or r/o as those are completely void of nutrients and you'll have to add some back in.

The slimy green algae, are you thinking of cyanobacteria? It's actually a bacteria, not an algae, but it shares the same basic causes as most forms of algae. The upside is that it is easy to remove, as it will come right off in sheets. The downside is that it grows WAY faster and can coat a tank overnight if given the chance.
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