Did not QT new fish, now whole tank is sick.
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Did not QT new fish, now whole tank is sick.

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Did not QT new fish, now whole tank is sick.
Old 05-20-2012, 09:57 PM   #1
 
La Reina's Avatar
 
Did not QT new fish, now whole tank is sick.

*sigh*

I didn't quarantine my new fish and now I'm paying the price. I added six dwarf neon rainbowfish to my 30 gallon, now four remain. The fish that have passed had a small, white spot on their bodies (not like ich) which quickly progressed to loss of colour and obvious internal infection. (Gasping at the surface and clamped fins in the late stages.)

Now there are some fish in my tank exhibiting ich-like spots, but there is no flashing from any of them.Or gasping.

What does this sound like to you? I want to do my best to protect my old stock.

Tank info:
-Planted
-30 gallon
-Ammonia, nitrite = 0
-Really low nitrate.
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:32 PM   #2
 
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Can you get pictures of anything?

If I were you I would hope it's ich, since it's very easy to treat. I preemptively treat all new fish for parasites. The heat treatment is best when it's caught early enough (however some issues can be made worse by a temperature increase so it's important to identify what the problem is before starting any treatment), but once the fish is infested meds are needed. When the fish is covered and it's fins are clamped, it needs immediate relief which meds provide, and that reward outweighs the risk of the meds killing the fish since the fish would be on it's way out at that point anyway.
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:34 PM   #3
 
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I have separated the fish with visible symptoms to my 5 gallon and I'm treating with Super Ich Cure and heat at 80 F. (With an airstone of course.) Got my fingers crossed. I'm too late for the rainbowfish I think but hopefully I can save my old guys.
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:41 PM   #4
 
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80 wouldn't be considered a heat treatment - that's a normal temp for a lot of people. The heat treatment is 86. However, you don't want to use the heat treatment with meds - the meds strip oxygen from the water, and the warm water holds less oxygen, so it's a double hit.
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:20 AM   #5
 
Obviously, since you put the infested fish in the 30 gallon, you'll need to treat that tank. I've had ich once, and it lasted for almost 2 months (I was treating for three weeks after that, so the whole experience for me was two and a half months of exhaustedness). I started out with the meds for a month and a half, with no success. I just raised the temperature a few degrees (I have subtropical fish, so the "heat treatment" wouldn't have worked with them), added a little salt, and kept vacuuming the gravel. Spots were gone in less than a week, and haven't returned 6 months later. Whatever you do, be sure to continue it two-three weeks after the last spot disappeared, since ich parasites reproduce on the gravel, where it can't be seen.

The most important thing is vacuuming the gravel. That is the only way to get the parasite out of your tank, when it is at its most vulnerable stage- after it has broken out of the fish and is ready to multiply.

The main reason why I'm against meds is it stresses out your fish, making them more vulnerable to ich and other diseases. Most of them don't really work anyway (the ones that work best kill plants, and they all kill snails/shrimp/etc.).
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:33 AM   #6
 
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The heat treatment works on all fish. Even "cold" water fish. It's only 2 weeks....

When doing a heat treatment, t's very important to raise the temperature to 86. It's not an arbitrary number - that is the temp that breaks the life cycle of the parasite. Of course different strains can survive different temps, so success can be had at a lower temp, but the lower the temp the greater the chance of it not being enough. Only once have I had a strain that survived 86. I had to bump it up to 90.
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