All fish Gasping for Air
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All fish Gasping for Air

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All fish Gasping for Air
Old 03-23-2010, 05:03 AM   #1
 
All fish Gasping for Air

Hey guys

My fish seem to be gasping for air, Unfortunately i don't think i have done the proper cycle .

i tested for nitrate which came back as 0, however i do not have a amonia testing kit, i feel pretty stupid not letting the tank cycle properly which could kill my livestock.

Tank Temp is 27-28c
Cleaned Filter.
Added Water Conditioner.
100Gal Corner Tank

Fish
2 x Guppies
1 x platies
5 x Neon Tetra
1 x Red-tailed Shark
5 x mollies
1 x Pleco


I beleive this might be an amonia spike, as a couple of days ago the fish were acting ok. the only thing iv'e added recently is a fish tank skull.

Should i do a 40% water change, iv'e also read that i should get some freshwater salt?

thanks for you advice
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:29 AM   #2
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidBed View Post
Hey guys

My fish seem to be gasping for air, Unfortunately i don't think i have done the proper cycle .

i tested for nitrate which came back as 0, however i do not have a amonia testing kit, i feel pretty stupid not letting the tank cycle properly which could kill my livestock.

Tank Temp is 27-28c
Cleaned Filter.
Added Water Conditioner.
100Gal Corner Tank

Fish
2 x Guppies
1 x platies
5 x Neon Tetra
1 x Red-tailed Shark
5 x mollies
1 x Pleco


I beleive this might be an amonia spike, as a couple of days ago the fish were acting ok. the only thing iv'e added recently is a fish tank skull.

Should i do a 40% water change, iv'e also read that i should get some freshwater salt?

thanks for you advice

I would immediately do 50 percent water change using dechlorinator that detoxifies ammonia,and nitrites . PRIME or AMQUEL+ are good at this.
I would also reduce feedings to once every other day and only feed what you see them eat in a couple minutes.
I would invest in a test kit such as the API Frsehwater master kit which is more accurate than test strips.
With this test kit, i would measure the ammonia and nitrite levels each day to ensure that they remain below .025. If they rose above this number i would perform 30 to 40 percent water changes using one of the afore mentioned conditioners (dechlorinators).
I would not touch the filter s for the next three weeks. If you don't over feed, then the filters should stay relatively clean and more importantly,, the bacteria needed (good kind) will develop there and thus help reduce levels of ammonia and nitrites that at elevated levels will kill your fish.
Read up on nitrification process in aquariums .
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Old 03-23-2010, 06:37 AM   #3
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1077 View Post
I would immediately do 50 percent water change using dechlorinator that detoxifies ammonia,and nitrites . PRIME or AMQUEL+ are good at this.
I would also reduce feedings to once every other day and only feed what you see them eat in a couple minutes.
I would invest in a test kit such as the API Frsehwater master kit which is more accurate than test strips.
With this test kit, i would measure the ammonia and nitrite levels each day to ensure that they remain below .025. If they rose above this number i would perform 30 to 40 percent water changes using one of the afore mentioned conditioners (dechlorinators).
I would not touch the filter s for the next three weeks. If you don't over feed, then the filters should stay relatively clean and more importantly,, the bacteria needed (good kind) will develop there and thus help reduce levels of ammonia and nitrites that at elevated levels will kill your fish.
Read up on nitrification process in aquariums .

Ordered Amquel Plus, 250 Ml bottle and API Freshwater Master Kit.

will change water tonight 50%

Thanks

8)
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:58 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by davidBed View Post
Ordered Amquel Plus, 250 Ml bottle and API Freshwater Master Kit.

will change water tonight 50%

Thanks

8)
I believe you may have destroyed the good bacteria that may have been developing in your filter or on the filter material when you cleaned it. Always clean this material Pads,sponges,cartridges etc in dechlorinated water or in the old water you take out during weekly water changes. It is the chlorine in tapwater that destroy's the benefical bacteria that we need to protect.
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:07 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by 1077 View Post
I believe you may have destroyed the good bacteria that may have been developing in your filter or on the filter material when you cleaned it. Always clean this material Pads,sponges,cartridges etc in dechlorinated water or in the old water you take out during weekly water changes. It is the chlorine in tapwater that destroy's the benefical bacteria that we need to protect.

thank you for the advise

just done a 50% water change, fish seem alot more happier now, just waiting for my products to come through, unfortunately one of my older guppies died, over the last couple of days he's been flashing and looked ill. i put some white spot medication in the tank to stop the ich from hatching, hopefull that will stop the spread, will do a 25 % water change tomorrow and reduce feed to once a day.

Am i doing the right thing?
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:37 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by davidBed View Post
thank you for the advise

just done a 50% water change, fish seem alot more happier now, just waiting for my products to come through, unfortunately one of my older guppies died, over the last couple of days he's been flashing and looked ill. i put some white spot medication in the tank to stop the ich from hatching, hopefull that will stop the spread, will do a 25 % water change tomorrow and reduce feed to once a day.

Am i doing the right thing?
Would change water anytime the ammonia and or nitrite levels are above .25
Until you get a test kit,I might change the water at 25 percent daily. Course this means you will have to add enough medicine to treat the water that you remove. Are you sure the fishes have ICH? Only add enough medication to treat how ever much you take out. If you have carbon in the filter,you will need to remove it or it will remove medication and meds won't work. If your filter has carbon in cartridges,cut them open with razor blade or scissors and dump out the carbon and stick the cartridges back in the filter. This way you don't lose too much bacteria while at the same time,leaving the floss part of the cartridges in place to allow bacteria to continue to develop.
If your fish have ICH, you are in a tough spot. You need to change water to keep ammonia and nitrite levels under control ,as well as treating the replacement water from each water change with more medication.
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:50 AM   #7
 
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Addition to previous post... If your fishes do not have salt looking white spots all over them and all fish are not flashing or scraping against objects,it is possible that they are suffering from ammonia burns which irritate the gills. In this case water changes should bring relief without the use of medications. would not treat fishes with meds unless I was sure as to what I was treating.
I would however slowly over a couple days,raise the temp in the tank to 82 to 84 degrees and leave it there for a couple weeks. If fishes do begin showing the tiny white spots associated with ICH. I might try Salt(aquarium) at a rate of 3 teaspoons per gal for two weeks .Only add salt for how ever many gallons you replace after water change.Hope some of this helps.
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:23 PM   #8
 
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if your fish are all gasping you need to do a large water change, and fast.

you shouldnt treat them for ich if you have not seen symptoms besides flashing...that is just going to stress them out even more. you should be doing up to a 50% water change every single day until your tank is cycled or until your ammonia levels stay under .25 ppm. when you do a water change you should not touch the filter at all, at least not for several months...when it starts to get dirty looking, you can give it a dunk or two in tank water...but you really want it to be dirty. if youre using carbon you can carefully remove it. you may want to keep the carbon for now to remove the ich meds, but it is not a big deal to not run carbon. i would not raise your temps any at all if you are consistently having toxic ammonia levels; that will kill them even faster. also, i would not use salt, at least not at full dosages.....plecos do not like salt. i really hope you do not have ich because during a cycle is a badtime for that. if you do lots of water changes it is possible you will avoid an ich outbreak.

you pretty much have 3 options:

1. take all your fish back and do a fishless cycle.
2. keep it as is and be prepared to do a LOT of water changes.
3. find somebody with an established tank, cut off a piece of their filter media and add it to yours.

Last edited by Bacchus; 03-23-2010 at 01:43 PM..
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:48 PM   #9
 
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I might also add that flashing can be caused by any sort of skin irritation, be it a parasite, a chemical in the water, a 'slime coat enhancer' (which work by irritating the fish's skin causing it to produce more slime) OR mild ammonia burns.
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Old 03-24-2010, 03:15 AM   #10
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacchus View Post
if your fish are all gasping you need to do a large water change, and fast.

you shouldnt treat them for ich if you have not seen symptoms besides flashing...that is just going to stress them out even more. you should be doing up to a 50% water change every single day until your tank is cycled or until your ammonia levels stay under .25 ppm. when you do a water change you should not touch the filter at all, at least not for several months...when it starts to get dirty looking, you can give it a dunk or two in tank water...but you really want it to be dirty. if youre using carbon you can carefully remove it. you may want to keep the carbon for now to remove the ich meds, but it is not a big deal to not run carbon. i would not raise your temps any at all if you are consistently having toxic ammonia levels; that will kill them even faster. also, i would not use salt, at least not at full dosages.....plecos do not like salt. i really hope you do not have ich because during a cycle is a badtime for that. if you do lots of water changes it is possible you will avoid an ich outbreak.

you pretty much have 3 options:

1. take all your fish back and do a fishless cycle.
2. keep it as is and be prepared to do a LOT of water changes.
3. find somebody with an established tank, cut off a piece of their filter media and add it to yours.

Original poster has 100 gal tank and not that many fish considering.
Has already performed 50 percent water change and reported that fish are looking better. Would stick with 25 percent daily water changes until test kit is aquired or take sample of water to fish store and ask them to test it.
I believe has only lost one fish that may or may not have died of ICH and is why I suggested not medicating as you have as well if no symptoms are present . Would stick with water changes and observe the fish before medicating.
Livebearers Original poster has ,will not react negatively to the salt (if needed), at dosage suggested as well as temp suggested. Would place salinity level quite low at around 1.001. have used this dosage with numerous species of fish as well as plecos ,and at one half teaspoon per gal with corys who are a bit more sensitive with no ill effects.
Is good idea to borrow some filter material from a friends tank if possible to help seed the 100 gal with bacteria.
I believe I have offered all I can at this point but original poster according to most recent post appears to be set on medicating the tank. If syptoms of ICH appear,,I would go with salt which is effective along with raising temp.
Treating 100 gal with medications combined with possible needed water changes? will get expensive ,and I would not be inclined to medicate unless necessary. Opinions vary.
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