John's 50Gallon Reef Build - Page 4 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #31 of 58 Old 08-13-2009, 12:45 AM
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the only place you really need the eggcrate is on the sump to keep the chaeto from getting out. that far left baffle to the left of the skimmer prob. isnt needed at all.
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post #32 of 58 Old 08-13-2009, 09:14 AM
The gha on the rocks may or may not be a problem. I would get that refugium set up with some chaeto to help keep the gha down.
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post #33 of 58 Old 08-13-2009, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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heres an update for everyone..........

the sump/refug tank i was suppose to buy was too tall for under my tank, im going to have to go witha 20g Long tank (smaller than i wanted, but i dont want to custom fab) My skimmer is running in a storage bin in the mean time, so i can keep the tank clean and take my time on building my sump. The overflow on the right side is simply just turned off.

three powerheads running (4th one needs a new impeller)

got basic t12 bulbs and am using my shop light for regular light. Will upgrade lights after the system is setup. (might add two actinic t8 bulbs)

Appears to be opperating well.....took a bit of work getting the water level right for the has black gook at the top of the cone but none in hte collection cup, has been running for an hr (its a used skimmer, does that mean its broken in? or does broken in your tank)

clown fish is happy, i just tested the water conditions and they are two large snails, they are mowin down all the GHA in the QT tank, so if they do a good job at it, i will buy a few more when the large tank is ready.

I also had a shrimp in the QT, he was unfortuntatly chopped up in the HOB filter...i have added some foam to the intake tube for now.

question on that....the HOB filter is a penguin bio wheel 150, should i run media in it? or leave it empty? its my 10gallon QT so i can easily clean the filters every 2-3 days.
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post #34 of 58 Old 08-13-2009, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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also, forgot to mention, the tank looks like the front and the back are bowing out..(it hasn';t been filled all the way until tonight) is this something normal for acrylic tanks?
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post #35 of 58 Old 08-15-2009, 10:56 AM
idk I have only had a little 5 gallon acrylic tank before, but I do not think it should bow out a lot
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post #36 of 58 Old 08-15-2009, 02:56 PM
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I think your Q tank is fine how it is. I would use the biowheel element of the penguin, but there is no reason for any filter pads. There is no reason to spend time or money on them.
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post #37 of 58 Old 08-16-2009, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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thanks guys

main tank was starting to clear up, until a powerhead fell down into the sand while i was away from home.....ill have to glue some magnets to them when i have the extra money. last i checked my big tank, ammonia levels were at 0, but there were still some nitrates and nitrites...could it be that my cycle is almost over? 95% of my rock is live rock from an established tank, that was in the water the whole time it was being transported. or could it be that there is no significant die off, and that i should add something to stimulate ammonia levels.
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post #38 of 58 Old 08-16-2009, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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oh an on a side note, i was getting the crap shocked out of my self everytime i touched the water, turns out the powerhead i was using as a return pump was leaking voltage into the water (used a multimeter to find the voltage levels, 10vAC). working fine once i replaced the pump.
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post #39 of 58 Old 08-16-2009, 06:21 AM
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You will probably never have an ammonia reading, given that you are using experienced live rock. The nitrites will probably go away in a few short days.

Keep in mind, when evaluating the marine environment, you should be more concerned about other visible clues to the health of your tank. (as opposed to ammonia and nitrite test results). Watch for copepods and amphipod populations to spread, for coraline algae to begin to grow, for the diatom bloom to disappear completely, and nitrate readings to being to fall or stabalize. All of these are great signs of the maturity of your aquarium and overall stability of the environment.

For the powerhead, just a suggestion. In addition to using suction cups, I also use cable ties to anchor the power cord (outside the tank). If the power chord is anchored, even when a suction cup fails, the power head does not fall to the substrate.
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post #40 of 58 Old 08-17-2009, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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a few updates...ill start with the current water readings...

nitrate: 10ppm
pH: 7.8
Ammonia: 0
nitrite: .50ppm
nitrate: 10ppm
temp: 82.9
Calcium: 440ppm
Carbonate: 8 (drops, couldn't find my instructions to find out what that means..)
Salinity: 1.024

i drained almost all the water and redid the rock pretty satisfied with how it is, would still like to add a few more pieces to it, later down the road.

also slid the tank out from the wall and put my 30gallon tank behind it (wouldn't fit under the stand) i plan on buying another tank shortly to turn into my sump/refugium...also a 30gal to replace just the plain tank i have behind the DT right now. Im hopiung my DT will be ready for livestock soon, ammonia levels are high in my QT, i've been doing water changes every day to bring these numbers down...I've ran out of RO water tho. Would i be able to take water from my DT like 3-4 gallons and then take 3-4 gallons from my qt and put it in my DT for the DT to remove the ammonia levels? (i know this defeats the purpose of the DT, but im not quartining this fish bc of illnesses, im just quarntining due to the DT not being ready yet. Hopefully the water will clean up more soon so i can take better pics.
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