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post #31 of 42 Old 01-17-2012, 02:01 PM
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Before one of my powerheads broke, I had them on opposite sides of opposite sides of the tank so that they kept something of a continuous current that kept detritus etc. in the water column instead of allowing it to settle.

Please excuse the poor man's diagram:

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What do you prefer about aiming them at each other from opposite sides of the tank, Reefing Madness? While that may result in more surface agitation, depending on the other equipment in use there may be more than enough surface agitation already.
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post #32 of 42 Old 01-17-2012, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Administrator View Post
Before one of my powerheads broke, I had them on opposite sides of opposite sides of the tank so that they kept something of a continuous current that kept detritus etc. in the water column instead of allowing it to settle.

Please excuse the poor man's diagram:

-------------------------<==
-------------------------------
-------------------------------
==>-------------------------

What do you prefer about aiming them at each other from opposite sides of the tank, Reefing Madness? While that may result in more surface agitation, depending on the other equipment in use there may be more than enough surface agitation already.
In all the tnaks that I have set up, I've put those powerheads in all kinds of positions. The opposite sides of the tank, keeps the flow uneven, when the water hits in the middle, there is no telling how hard or soft at any givin moment the water will go out to the sides. You can also, get them to the sides slightly and up, in my experience this kills 2 birds with one stone, you get surface agitation, and the water tends to force itself downward and then back towards the powerhead. And like you said, it helps keep the detrius moving around the tank and not letting settle, providing you have enough flow that is. And, I'm referring to using the Hydor Koralia powerheads also, as to me they move the water better than the closed faced powerheads. I can't afford the Vortex, or I'd give those a shot.
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post #33 of 42 Old 01-17-2012, 07:42 PM
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either side of tank is good, you could also have all on one side too, esp if you have an overflow at the other end. i prefer either side. really anyway to get as little to no dead flow spots in your tank. this is what will cause problems down the road.

right now i have 2 hydors on one side of the tank, one on the back glass aimed up at the surface and the other on the side of the glass in the top corner blowing across the front of the tank. on the other side i have a vortech slowly going fast then slowing down, fast then slowing down. this seems to be working well for me, the one hydor blowing the surface creates a nice shimmer of light from the LEDs too. i plan on getting another vortech when i can afford it, maybe even a bigger one then i have now.
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post #34 of 42 Old 02-11-2012, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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Well almost done with my basement project, and instead of going with my brothers free 125gallon tank i have decided to buy a 240gallon 72x24x31 glass tank that comes with a custom sump 65gallon, 48x18x17 that i can have setup anyway i want, question would be how should i chamber it, would i benifit from running multiple defferent alge's? Like Cheato, Sea Lettuce, fern plants (says works like a protein skimmer), and if so i was thinking on the main chamber to run horizontal dividers for each alge with a small powerhead, plus copods and a few snails in it, I get conflicting reports of spinning the alge or just let the natural flow go over it?

I am going with the 240 gallon because i want a few more fish and dont want to spend the time upgrading in the future, seems like a real pain in the butt to do that
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post #35 of 42 Old 02-11-2012, 12:05 PM
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Well almost done with my basement project, and instead of going with my brothers free 125gallon tank i have decided to buy a 240gallon 72x24x31 glass tank that comes with a custom sump 65gallon, 48x18x17 that i can have setup anyway i want, question would be how should i chamber it, would i benifit from running multiple defferent alge's? Like Cheato, Sea Lettuce, fern plants (says works like a protein skimmer), and if so i was thinking on the main chamber to run horizontal dividers for each alge with a small powerhead, plus copods and a few snails in it, I get conflicting reports of spinning the alge or just let the natural flow go over it?

I am going with the 240 gallon because i want a few more fish and dont want to spend the time upgrading in the future, seems like a real pain in the butt to do that
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post #36 of 42 Old 02-12-2012, 04:29 PM
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New set up

hi there i have recently bought a 48l tank and need advise. ive bought a fluval edge and it comes with pump and filter and have bought a internal heater. ive set it up as the instructions have said and added some additives that help with cycle process but i dont know how long i should leave it till introducing fish??, and then what fish to introduce.... ive read quite a bit and have realised that 48 liters is not that big and that i could only get 10-12 small-medium fish in there, but could i have just 2-3 bigger fish that wont out grow the tank ??
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post #37 of 42 Old 02-12-2012, 05:37 PM
In a 12 gallon tank, your not going to be able to keep but 2-3 at most.
You'll also need to get a water test kit. You posted this in the saltwater section, so I am going to assume we are talking about saltwater here.
Your test kit should consist of:
Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates. When you have a 0 reading for Ammonia and Nitrites, and a reading of less than 40ppm for Nitrates, you may add fish. Secondly, you'll need a Refractometer to measure salinity, and that you will want, depending on your set up now, for Fish only, you can have it between 1.017 thru 1.025, and a Reef tank, or tank with fish and some corals, you'll want that at 1.025.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/a....cfm?c=15+2124
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post #38 of 42 Old 02-12-2012, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reefing Madness View Post
In a 12 gallon tank, your not going to be able to keep but 2-3 at most.
You'll also need to get a water test kit. You posted this in the saltwater section, so I am going to assume we are talking about saltwater here.
Your test kit should consist of:
Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates. When you have a 0 reading for Ammonia and Nitrites, and a reading of less than 40ppm for Nitrates, you may add fish. Secondly, you'll need a Refractometer to measure salinity, and that you will want, depending on your set up now, for Fish only, you can have it between 1.017 thru 1.025, and a Reef tank, or tank with fish and some corals, you'll want that at 1.025.
Nano Fish
Hi thanks for quick reply and no it's not going to be saltwater ( posted in wrong section ) I am going to buy a testing kit tomorrow, have just read a full article on cycling with no fish and seems quite complicated, also as this is not going to be a saltwater tank could I have a smaller amount of bigger fish rather than a load of neon size fish ??
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post #39 of 42 Old 02-12-2012, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Gazak79 View Post
Hi thanks for quick reply and no it's not going to be saltwater ( posted in wrong section ) I am going to buy a testing kit tomorrow, have just read a full article on cycling with no fish and seems quite complicated, also as this is not going to be a saltwater tank could I have a smaller amount of bigger fish rather than a load of neon size fish ??
No clue about the fish you can keep in there.
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post #40 of 42 Old 03-17-2012, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by chuckd92 View Post
in regards on the powerheads, do i place them both facing the same way for a straight current or one on each side of the tank???
I just got finished setting up a 37 gal tank 1 power head on either side 1 to the front and 1 to the back and another smaller 1 in the center rear of tank pointing outward about 1/2 way down
pointed up gives a nice circular current think fish are going to love playing in it .
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37 gal bow front (saltwater)
octopus 150 skimmer
external penguin bio wheel 150 packed with cheato
ETH 200 watt inline heater
3 power heads 500gph
in line UV sterilizer

30 gal (brackish)
bio filter
under-gravel 2 power-heads 250gph

30 gal hex (freshwater)
bio filter
under gravel 2 power heads 170gph

Who ever said keeping fish was easy should have there head examined
It's more like a full time job !!!!
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