Finally some pics

blueblue48

Thanks for the reply pasfur, ironically i have GSP that i added a couple days ago so im interested if mine will start growing and spreading, and look as good as yours :D . keep it up

Pasfur

Very good information. If anyone reading is looking for further sources on this subject, i suggest Martin Moes "Marine Aquarium Reference, Systems and Invertebrates", otherwise known as "the blue book." Unless of course you happen to own a limited edition hand autographed hard back, which is green. Not that I'd know anyone who does.

Back to the topic...

I am always interested in generalizations, because it is usually the specifics that lead to further knowledge. I have noticed lately that many hobbyists use the term "soft corals" to mean anything other than SPS corals. When you say that "some soft corals" utilize calcium, can you elaborate? Are we talking true soft corals, or is this one of those situations where you actually mean LPS corals such as Anchor, Bubble, and Frogspawn. If you are speaking to Leathers, Star colonies, Xenia, Zooanthids, and Mushrooms, can you elaborate on their use of calcium?

On the use of a Kalk drip, i have seen first hand how this can get out of control if not carefully monitored. About 10 years ago, a friend of mine dripped Kalk in a 150 reef. The substrate eventually calcified, as the sand sifters could not keep up. The aragonite literally bonded into rock. We used a hammer and screwdriver to break the aragonite into rock pieces. I still have several of these pieces today, and if you look closely at my pictures above (directly above the FI in "fish") you will see several pieces of this aragonite "rock" used to elevate my live rock bed off the sand. I have also used some of these pieces in my african cichlid aquariums.

Thanks for your input.

SKAustin

I'm not sure Ive ever heard of LPS corals referred to as "Soft Corals". LPS for those who don't know, stands for "Large Polyp Stony" SPS stands for "Small Polyp Stony" these are both, as the name suggests, Stony Corals otherwise known as "Hard Corals". Stony corals use calcium and bicarbonate to build a skeleton. Some Soft corals and sponges use the calcium and bicarbonate to develop spicules. Spicules are very small crystal like structures that provide some degree of rigidity to the coral. In some corals like the leather corals, these spicules can be visible during the propagation of the coral, and also can be evident in areas of regression of the coral's tissue.

Pasfur

Again, thanks for taking the time. To be clear, you would recommend that I use the calcium additive separately from the buffer, and then monitor both.

My plan going forward: Continue to dose my buffer as I have been, testing weekly to keep my level between 10 and 12 dkh. I will begin to add Kent Marine's liquid calcium supplement, as seen here: http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/197952/product.web.

My plan would be to initially add small doses of calcium daily until I hit my target level of 450ppm. I would then test twice weekly and add as needed to maintain.

Provided the alkalinity, pH, and calcium readings all remain in line, then I will consider magnesium and phosphate levels to be appropriate. If i have any difficulty maintaining my calcium levels, i will begin testing phosphate as well. If the problem persists, then magnesium monitoring would become necessary.

Does this sound accurate?

By the way, again, I not tell you how helpful your explanation has been to my organizing my thoughts. Thanks for playing along. 8)

willow

wow!! looking great,
well done on your hard work.

SKAustin

Pasfur, I didn't realize you were already using a buffer. If you are buffering alk already, then you may want to consider a 2-part supplement like B-ionic instead. Personally, I use B-ionic, Limewater for top-off, and a stand alone calcium supplement. It's been a bit of a pain lately as I am trying to recover from a bit of an issue with excessive abiotic precip. It seems that with the employment of pop-up reminders to keep my dosing and maintenance regiment more regulated, my alk has climbed a bit higher than it should have (12 dkh), and subsequently, I saw a drop in calcium down to 360ppm.

As for testing Phosphates, might I ask what type of water source you are using? If you are using RO, or RO/DI, I see little need to test phosphates any more than once every few months.

If you can get away with having a LFS or a local (fellow hobbyist) friend test for Magnesium levels every few months, I would try to go that route. Unless you have problems maintaining your other levels, theres probably not much need for regular testing of magnesium.

Pasfur

I will throw in my 2 cents on phosphate. I think it is worth monitoring even with the use of RO. Given that phosphates are introduced to the system as water flows through or around detritus accumulation, which includes mechanical filtration pads, and also as a part of most frozen and dried foods, it is reasonable to monitor its buildup. I have seen phosphate levels get out of control quickly, even in systems that use RO.

Anyhow, this the lesser part of our discussion. I plan to start on the calcium additions tomorrow. I will post updates for the readers who are interested.

benny503

Wow... only 2 and half months and your tank looking great... I love to have my tank like yours. Good job on your tank and

SKAustin

So Pasfur, My next question to you is, when are you going to start work on adding a sump to your system so that you can get that technology out of your tank?

Pasfur

This was supposed to be a simple low budget fish-only system with a couple clownfish and a dwarf spotted puffer! Instead i've gone crazy and keep upgrading and of all things decided to add corals. {sigh} Yes, i've been considering a sump. I actually have a pre-drilled overflow 58 gallon bowfront in storage...