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Sick Lunare Wrasse

This is a discussion on Sick Lunare Wrasse within the Saltwater Fish Diseases forums, part of the Saltwater Fish and Coral Reef Tanks category; --> I tested for calcium and by alkalinity I assume you mean ph. Calcium was at 400 and the ph was 8.4...Now the white haze ...

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Old 01-24-2009, 08:28 AM   #11
 
I tested for calcium and by alkalinity I assume you mean ph. Calcium was at 400 and the ph was 8.4...Now the white haze has progressed to a green tint which I assume is an algae bloom. This tank has been set up for 2 weeks today. As I stated earlier, it had been an existing tank. I bought a new tank and stand. I put all of the substrate and live rock from my old tank and used my existing wet/dry filter and put all new water in the new tank. I have also purchased Algone in hopes that would clear my problem. I have no amonia, a trace of nitrite, and no nitrate in my tank at this time. I do have about 2.5 on phosphate in my tank. I am currently not running a uv but my pet store guy said that the Aquaecolizer was the way to go so that is what I am using. Any other questions or suggestions? There is also a white bit of debris floating on top of the water. My overflow box doesn't seem to be removing it...
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Old 01-24-2009, 02:52 PM   #12
 
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Calcium was 400. Did you test alkalinity? These type of situations are rare unless one of these levels is completely off. However, for your situation I think we have another issue in the works...

When you moved the sand bed and bioballs it is likely that nutrients were released into the aquarium which are now contributing to an algae bloom. This is a FOWLR, correct? If so, then I would cut off all light for the next 48 hours and then do a large partial. It will be vital to check the skimmer frequently during this period.
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Old 01-24-2009, 03:02 PM   #13
 
No. I also have several mushroom corals, a large green carpet anemone, and several rock anemones. i am looking to also add more coral as soon as I have everything right. My initial thought was the same. That I had disturbed the bacterial bed. I didn't move the bio balls they stayed in the sump. But I did move the substrate. I noticed a little while ago that it does seem to be clearing up. I put 2 pouches of the Algone in my tank last night and I pointed the returns more toward the surface to break up the floating debris. It seems that it is helping. I think I might be going through a mini cycle. But all of my water parameters other than phosphate are within safe levels. 0 amonia, a slight bit of nitrite, and no nitrate. When you are asking about alkalinity are you talking about ph? And is the Aquaecolizer a satisfactory replacement for a uv?
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Old 02-03-2009, 10:45 AM   #14
 
Lunare Wrasse is still not eating but alive...It has been 5 weeks...Someone please help!!!!
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Old 02-03-2009, 01:13 PM   #15
 
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I'm having a difficult time offering suggestions.

Some random thoughts. Alkalinity is not pH. Alkalinity needs to be tested separately from pH and Calcium. All 3 readings are necessary to understand if an adjustment is needed. Any one reading without the other two gives incomplete information that can not really be used to make any recommendation. Some hobbyists would include Magnesium in this discussion as well, but i've always managed to utilize just the basic 3 tests.

What is your lighting pattern? Have you observed your Wrasse in the middle of the night when the main lights are off?

Temperature?

Lets talk about tankmates again. If the Wrasse is honestly laying in one spot for this extended period of time, it is highly likely that it is experiencing stress and this is a stimulated response.

Can you post pictures or link to video?
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Old 03-21-2009, 08:23 AM   #16
 
Mark,
I did my 50 gallon water change on Wed. I put in the Kent phosphate remover. I checked my kh which was 180, my ph 8.5. I was not able to use ro water this time. Now the problem the water is still not crystal clear and I am starting to get algae 3 days later. What should the alkalinity be and if I need to lower it what do I use to do that?

Michael
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