Aiming to Start a Saltwater Reef Tank
Starting a saltwater tank is not an easy or cheap task. Of course there are “cheaper” ways of doing things but cost for equipment is high. They say if budget is a problem your better off having the ultimate freshwater setup. First I strongly recommend hours upon hours of research to ensure your success from the very beginning of your reef keeping experience.
Second, I encourage you to search for a reefing club that is local to you. Reef clubs are great places to meet new people, learn things, acquire equipment new/used for cheap, and buy/trade corals usually for fractions of the price.
This will be a rough guide on a start up of a salt tank and by no means does research end here. Please feel free to add to this thread any and all corrections or additional facts and information.
Things Necessary for a Saltwater Tank:
There is glass and acrylic tanks, both have positives and negatives. Glass is harder to scratch, but once it is it cannot be removed. Acrylic is easy to scratch but scratches can be buffed out (only when the tank is empty) There are also factors of heat, as one holds in more heat then the other (off the top of my head I cannot think if which one)
Preferably you will want to tape off the tank and spray paint the outside back wall of it either black or blue. If your tank isn’t reef ready (comes will holes drilled and overflow box) you will want to drill holes before filling. Please research how to drill glass, and DO NOT drill tempered glass. Keep in mind the size of tank! The bigger the tank is the more volume of water it will hold which will then become a more overall stable system. This is recommended for people new to salt water as the tanks water parameters are less likely to fluctuate as much in a 75gal as in a 10gal. The down fall to a large tank is the cost to fill it with corals, fish, equipment and everything in between. Smaller tanks do cost less but keep in mind that when water evaporates the levels of salt will change faster then in a larger system. You should also consider the height of the tank. This is commonly overlooked. A standard 75 gallon tank is the same dimensions as a standard 90 gallon tank, however the 90 is taller. The taller tank isn’t always a good thing as lighting becomes an issue.
There are generally 4 different kinds of lighting to use in saltwater systems. All 4 kinds have there positives and negatives. Corals need light to produce the symbiotic algae for which it feeds upon (unless it is a coral you physically have to feed) Lights will also allow corals to “glow” or appear fluorescent under certain light fixtures and bulbs.
-Power Compacts (PCS) Generally the cheapest of all the light fixtures, emits low heat comparatively speaking but its downfall is that you are greatly limited to the types of corals you can keep.
-VHO/T5s (VHO=Very High Output/T5=tubular 5/8inch bulb) You can change the “color output” by simply switching out 1 or 2 bulbs, emits medium heat comparatively speaking can keep a variety of corals but there still are limits.
-Metal Halides (MHS) You can keep pretty much any coral, emits very high heat comparatively speaking downfall is cost to purchase, cost monthly, cost of 1 bulb (when wanted a different color output) and chances are you may need a chiller.
-Light Emitting Diodes (LEDS) I have not experienced these however I’ve heard good things, the downfall is the initial price to buy.
I personally use icecap t5s.
You’ll want bulbs in the 10,000k, 12, 000, 14 or 20k range. If you are using PC or t5s you’ll want daylight and actinic bulbs. The actinic is what produces the “blue” that makes your corals appear to “glow” I personally think too much blue is un-necessary, bulb choice is really a preference. Metal Halides have 1 bulb so changing colors means you need to change bulbs or supplement with PCs/t5s + the MH. This isn’t uncommon as people usually have “lower lighting” come on an hour before the “higher lighting” turns on and an hour after the “higher lighting” turns off. This is to simulate morning and evenings without completely shocking corals. Dim moonlights are also a great thing to have as in the wild fish never really see complete darkness.
A good brand heater (if not 2) is the start to success. You would hate to have a complete set up “crash” because your heater malfunctioned and “cooked” the entire tank. I personally am a fan of shatter proof completely submersible heaters, which can fit in my sump (more about sumps later on)
What good is a heater without a thermometer? They make all kinds of them, suction cup mercury ones to suction cup probes leading to digital displays. I myself use both kinds, the old school with the new technology. Why? Because the digital doesn’t seem to be completely accurate, maybe I’m paranoid; maybe I’m taking the extra security for a few more bucks.
Power heads create the flow for your tank. There are all different types and kinds, brands and prices. I personally am a fan of Hydor Koralia’s pumps as they are cheap and easy to mount and aim in desired directions. Power heads will each have their own GPH (gallon per HOUR) rate. I’ve heard people say the “general rule” for flow in a tank is anywhere from 10-50x the tank size. I think that’s a pretty broad general rule. Really it depends about not having dead spots (minimal to no water movement) in the tank and what type of corals you’re keeping. You will also want to consider how not to have any sand storms, not too much flow where your fish have trouble (they can take a lot of flow) and consider some corals that like “low flow” areas
Test kits that are needed are Ammonia, nitrITE, nitrATE, pH, calcium, alkalinity, magnesium at the minimum. There are also iodine, copper, phosphate and a few others that ultimately are necessary but wouldn’t hurt to have. You are also going to need the required dosing chemicals such as alk, cal, and mg. I hear good things about the 2 part dosing of B-ionic (alk/cal) Please do not dose what you do not test for! When testing for salt content (salinity) I feel should be done with a refractometer (can be found on eBay for $20-30) rather then a hydrometer. Hydrometers seem to fluctuate in readings and are not as accurate. I recommend spending the extra $10-20 for a refractometer from the beginning instead of buying a hydrometer then deciding you want to upgrade.
Your either going to want no sand, about 1 inch deep sand or 4-6 inches deep sand, avoid 2 or 3 inch deep sand beds. Some put down egg crate (white grid-ing called “light de-fuser” at Home depot or Lowes) first to help distribute out the weight of live rock and help “cushion” the rock if there ever was an avalanche.
There are a few different types of live rock; the names usually indicate where it was harvested from. The “general rule” for live rock is to have 1-2 pounds per gallon. I think this is a good general rule but you don’t want too much and you for sure don’t want too little. Live rock with good flow is one of the natural filtrations in a saltwater tank. “Base Rock” which is usually all white and dried out is cheaper, but is completely dead. You will hear cured live rock and uncured live rock, really all that means is if there is die off of organisms or not. Aqua-scaping your tank is really a preference however the rocks shouldn’t be packed/pile too close where flow cannot get in and around them.
Starting a saltwater tank is not an easy or cheap task. Of course there are “cheaper” ways of doing things but cost for equipment is high. They say if budget is a problem your better off having the ultimate freshwater setup. First I strongly recommend hours upon hours of research to ensure your success from the very beginning of your reef keeping experience.
Second, I encourage you to search for a reefing club that is local to you. Reef clubs are great places to meet new people, learn things, acquire equipment new/used for cheap, and buy/trade corals usually for fractions of the price.
This will be a rough guide on a start up of a salt tank and by no means does research end here. Please feel free to add to this thread any and all corrections or additional facts and information.
Things Necessary for a Saltwater Tank:
Tank
There is glass and acrylic tanks, both have positives and negatives. Glass is harder to scratch, but once it is it cannot be removed. Acrylic is easy to scratch but scratches can be buffed out (only when the tank is empty) There are also factors of heat, as one holds in more heat then the other (off the top of my head I cannot think if which one)
Preferably you will want to tape off the tank and spray paint the outside back wall of it either black or blue. If your tank isn’t reef ready (comes will holes drilled and overflow box) you will want to drill holes before filling. Please research how to drill glass, and DO NOT drill tempered glass. Keep in mind the size of tank! The bigger the tank is the more volume of water it will hold which will then become a more overall stable system. This is recommended for people new to salt water as the tanks water parameters are less likely to fluctuate as much in a 75gal as in a 10gal. The down fall to a large tank is the cost to fill it with corals, fish, equipment and everything in between. Smaller tanks do cost less but keep in mind that when water evaporates the levels of salt will change faster then in a larger system. You should also consider the height of the tank. This is commonly overlooked. A standard 75 gallon tank is the same dimensions as a standard 90 gallon tank, however the 90 is taller. The taller tank isn’t always a good thing as lighting becomes an issue.
Lighting
There are generally 4 different kinds of lighting to use in saltwater systems. All 4 kinds have there positives and negatives. Corals need light to produce the symbiotic algae for which it feeds upon (unless it is a coral you physically have to feed) Lights will also allow corals to “glow” or appear fluorescent under certain light fixtures and bulbs.
-Power Compacts (PCS) Generally the cheapest of all the light fixtures, emits low heat comparatively speaking but its downfall is that you are greatly limited to the types of corals you can keep.
-VHO/T5s (VHO=Very High Output/T5=tubular 5/8inch bulb) You can change the “color output” by simply switching out 1 or 2 bulbs, emits medium heat comparatively speaking can keep a variety of corals but there still are limits.
-Metal Halides (MHS) You can keep pretty much any coral, emits very high heat comparatively speaking downfall is cost to purchase, cost monthly, cost of 1 bulb (when wanted a different color output) and chances are you may need a chiller.
-Light Emitting Diodes (LEDS) I have not experienced these however I’ve heard good things, the downfall is the initial price to buy.
I personally use icecap t5s.
Bulbs
You’ll want bulbs in the 10,000k, 12, 000, 14 or 20k range. If you are using PC or t5s you’ll want daylight and actinic bulbs. The actinic is what produces the “blue” that makes your corals appear to “glow” I personally think too much blue is un-necessary, bulb choice is really a preference. Metal Halides have 1 bulb so changing colors means you need to change bulbs or supplement with PCs/t5s + the MH. This isn’t uncommon as people usually have “lower lighting” come on an hour before the “higher lighting” turns on and an hour after the “higher lighting” turns off. This is to simulate morning and evenings without completely shocking corals. Dim moonlights are also a great thing to have as in the wild fish never really see complete darkness.
Heaters
A good brand heater (if not 2) is the start to success. You would hate to have a complete set up “crash” because your heater malfunctioned and “cooked” the entire tank. I personally am a fan of shatter proof completely submersible heaters, which can fit in my sump (more about sumps later on)
Thermometers
What good is a heater without a thermometer? They make all kinds of them, suction cup mercury ones to suction cup probes leading to digital displays. I myself use both kinds, the old school with the new technology. Why? Because the digital doesn’t seem to be completely accurate, maybe I’m paranoid; maybe I’m taking the extra security for a few more bucks.
Power heads
Power heads create the flow for your tank. There are all different types and kinds, brands and prices. I personally am a fan of Hydor Koralia’s pumps as they are cheap and easy to mount and aim in desired directions. Power heads will each have their own GPH (gallon per HOUR) rate. I’ve heard people say the “general rule” for flow in a tank is anywhere from 10-50x the tank size. I think that’s a pretty broad general rule. Really it depends about not having dead spots (minimal to no water movement) in the tank and what type of corals you’re keeping. You will also want to consider how not to have any sand storms, not too much flow where your fish have trouble (they can take a lot of flow) and consider some corals that like “low flow” areas
Testing/Dosing
Test kits that are needed are Ammonia, nitrITE, nitrATE, pH, calcium, alkalinity, magnesium at the minimum. There are also iodine, copper, phosphate and a few others that ultimately are necessary but wouldn’t hurt to have. You are also going to need the required dosing chemicals such as alk, cal, and mg. I hear good things about the 2 part dosing of B-ionic (alk/cal) Please do not dose what you do not test for! When testing for salt content (salinity) I feel should be done with a refractometer (can be found on eBay for $20-30) rather then a hydrometer. Hydrometers seem to fluctuate in readings and are not as accurate. I recommend spending the extra $10-20 for a refractometer from the beginning instead of buying a hydrometer then deciding you want to upgrade.
Sand
Your either going to want no sand, about 1 inch deep sand or 4-6 inches deep sand, avoid 2 or 3 inch deep sand beds. Some put down egg crate (white grid-ing called “light de-fuser” at Home depot or Lowes) first to help distribute out the weight of live rock and help “cushion” the rock if there ever was an avalanche.
Live Rock
There are a few different types of live rock; the names usually indicate where it was harvested from. The “general rule” for live rock is to have 1-2 pounds per gallon. I think this is a good general rule but you don’t want too much and you for sure don’t want too little. Live rock with good flow is one of the natural filtrations in a saltwater tank. “Base Rock” which is usually all white and dried out is cheaper, but is completely dead. You will hear cured live rock and uncured live rock, really all that means is if there is die off of organisms or not. Aqua-scaping your tank is really a preference however the rocks shouldn’t be packed/pile too close where flow cannot get in and around them.