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Sump Help

This is a discussion on Sump Help within the Saltwater Aquarium Equipment forums, part of the Beginner Saltwater Aquariums category; --> sounds like a cat fight to me. just kidding guy well thank you both for the info. just a reminder to both of you ...

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Old 05-25-2007, 07:30 PM   #11
 
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sounds like a cat fight to me. just kidding guy well thank you both for the info. just a reminder to both of you I don't think everyone will have the same answer to a question that Is why I like to post questions because I get so many different answars. So thank You both. it have been helpfull but also confusing.

Roger
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Old 05-25-2007, 07:42 PM   #12
 
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No pissin' match here. Just providing a difference of opinion. Besides, CRM knows I respect his knowledge and input. I should think by now he knows to take my posts with a grain of salt and never take me too seriously for too long. I'm like that little kid who runs around with a yardstick thwacking bees nests. :D
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Old 05-25-2007, 09:06 PM   #13
 
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Attention caferacermike & SKAustin

IMHO both of you deserve recognition for the valuable information and time that you both put in on this forum

Myself I have been very interested in regards this thread as I am upgrading my tank & sump & have learnt some valuable info on the sump design

cheers to both of you :)
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Old 05-26-2007, 07:46 AM   #14
 
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Another consideration you need to make when setting up your sump is, "What will happen in the event of a power outage?"

When you shut you return pump off, water from the main tank will flow down to the sump. You need to maintain a 'safe' area in you sump so you don't have a flood. To determine the water volume the formula is (L" x W" x H") / 231 = volume in gallons. (make sure you're measuring the inside dimensions of the tank)

Figure out the minimum "safe zone" needed in the sump by Calculating the volume of water between the water in the display tanks normal operating level, and the minimum overflow point. Then add consideration for any additional water that will drain out from the plumbing

Here's an example. My tank is a 55 gallon, my sump was created from a 20 gallon long. There is 1/2" between normal operating level, and the minimum level before the overflow stops. There is 3.5" between the top of my baffles and the top of my sump (measured to the bottom of the trim, not to the actual top of the tank). Now lets look at the math.

Tank overflow (12.00 x 47.50 x 0.50) / 231 = 1.24

If we add 1/2 gallon of water for each the overflow pipe, and the return pipe, that leaves the necessary safe zone at 2.24 gallons.

Sump "safe zone" (11.81 x 23.67 x 3.50) / 231 = 4.23

The actual "safe zone" (4.24 gallons) is nearly twice the necessary capacity (2.24 gallons). So in the event of a power outage, no flood.
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Old 05-26-2007, 07:55 AM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogergolf66
Well thank you my question then would be well how do I slow the water flow down enough. MY pump will be 1200gph and that is way to fast for a refugium?
What will your GPH after head loss be?
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Old 05-26-2007, 05:16 PM   #16
 
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well this pump is 1025gph at 3 feet. that is about how hight the pump will be pumping. I don't know a way to calculate exact head loss with all the plumbing in and everything entill it is done.

Roger

thanks for the formula!!! I will be using that I will be starting to build the tank stand and wall on monday 2 days.
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Old 05-26-2007, 05:29 PM   #17
 
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This might help too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SKAustin
I have sheets of non-corrigated cardboard. I measure and cut strips the width of the baffle spacing. I then bend the strips into a circle and staple them. These circles are then used as a spacer between the baffles. If you lay the tank on end, you can work your way up without having to wait for the silicone on the previous piece to set.

how to silicone a clean bead between the bubble trap baffles:
The first baffle of the bubble trap can be mounted normally. Once the first baffle is in place, measure and mark with a pencil or marker on the outside of the tank, the location of the second baffle. Keep in mind, the bigger the space between baffles, the slower the water will flow through the trap, and the slower the water flows through the trap, the better the trap will function. Once you have marked your location on the top and bottom of each side (and either side of the bottom if the baffle goes to the bottom), run a piece of masking tape to make a line all the way around the outside of the tank where your baffle will be. Place a bead of silicone around the inside of the tank using the line as a guide. Now place your spacer in and then slide the baffle into place. If this was done properly, the baffle should have pushed the bead of silicone enough that the silicone fills any space between the baffle and the glass. Now use a 1/2" dowel to reach in between the baffles. Run the end of the dowel up the bead of silicone to force it further into any gaps, and to round off the bead. Let that set for a bit, then run a standard bead around the outside of the baffle.

Voila! One down, one to go.
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