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Sump designs

4K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  caferacermike 
#1 ·
I am currently converting my 30gal long sump/refug. to a 65 gallon tank. I need help designing one. I must have went blank. I can not think of a design for it. The panels will be made from glass.
 
#2 ·
Mike, Give me the (Inside and outside) dimensions of both tanks, plus the depth of the water between normal capacity and the point where water no longer enters the overflow (probably close to 1"). I would recommend that you do a 3 section design with the return in the center. That way you are not skimming out the nutrients that would benefit the Refugium life. Will also need the skimmer type and dimensions for in-sump installation.

You provide me that info, and I'll have a diagram with measurements, plus my secret to a clean silicone bead on the inner walls of the bubble trap and how to keep the baffles perfectly aligned..
 
#4 ·
Actually, Trev, I don't use wood. I have sheets of non-corrigated cardboard. I measure and cut strips the width of the baffle spacing. I then bend the strips into a circle and staple them. These circles are then used as a spacer between the baffles. If you lay the tank on end, you can work your way up without having to wait for the silicone on the previous piece to set.

how to silicone a clean bead between the bubble trap baffles:
The first baffle of the bubble trap can be mounted normally. Once the first baffle is in place, measure and mark with a pencil or marker on the outside of the tank, the location of the second baffle. Keep in mind, the bigger the space between baffles, the slower the water will flow through the trap, and the slower the water flows through the trap, the better the trap will function. Once you have marked your location on the top and bottom of each side (and either side of the bottom if the baffle goes to the bottom), run a piece of masking tape to make a line all the way around the outside of the tank where your baffle will be. Place a bead of silicone around the inside of the tank using the line as a guide. Now place your spacer in and then slide the baffle into place. If this was done properly, the baffle should have pushed the bead of silicone enough that the silicone fills any space between the baffle and the glass. Now use a 1/2" dowel to reach in between the baffles. Run the end of the dowel up the bead of silicone to force it further into any gaps, and to round off the bead. Let that set for a bit, then run a standard bead aroung the outside of the baffle.

Voila! One down, one to go.
 
#5 ·
I will get them to you. I changed plans. The 65 gal will be sump and the 30 gal will be refug. I sump will have a mag 12 return pump and the refug will have a no name brand pump that pumps 700gal/hr. I figured I would try it this way to get the water to flow though the refug slower then the sump. If you look at the diagram there is a ball vavle between were the the two umps meet. I figured this would control the flow to the far right return nozzle. No with one pump being stronger then the other I thought that the water would end up pushing it back through the weaker pump. Then I also thought about have the weaker pump return right into the sump and having the mag 12 pump returnig the water to the tank. Also for the over flow lines should I leave them the way they are in the pic or connect them and then run a line to both tanks?
 
#7 ·
I would think the 2 pumps could really bite you in the rear at a later date. All it would take is a clump of algae, snail, etc... to off set the flow a little. If it were up to me and you wanted to make as little a change as possible, I'd build a 2x4 stand and elevate the refugium. Drill a 2" hole where you want the water level to be and pipe that down to the sump so it gravity feeds. That way you still only have one pump to keep in check. Make sure that your sump can handle all the overflow in a power failure as the fuge won't hold any extra once drilled. Or just don't twin the pumps and just keep them separate, so they are 2 different systems.
 
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