Setting up new aquarium - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 50 Old 11-18-2008, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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so for the first few months i run the sump / refugium only? with a light on 24/7 in over the sump.
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post #12 of 50 Old 11-19-2008, 12:08 AM
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id either keep the light on 24/7 or reverse cycle (when the tank lights go out, the sump lights come on)
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post #13 of 50 Old 11-19-2008, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onefish2fish View Post
id either keep the light on 24/7 or reverse cycle (when the tank lights go out, the sump lights come on)

agreed, you do the reverse photo to keep the ph stable.

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post #14 of 50 Old 11-19-2008, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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do you guys run UV in the sump?
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post #15 of 50 Old 11-20-2008, 12:12 AM
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I personally do, but there are a lot of mixed opinions on whether or not they are highly effective... it also probably has a lot to do with how carefully/correctly you set it up. Each UV unit will have a range of flow rates that is recommended for it: too fast, and it won't be able to do its job at all... I'm not sure what the consequences are if you run water through it too slowly, but I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to do that either.

Within the range of "acceptable" flow rates, if you run water through it as fast as possible, you'll only kill/sterilize bacteria... if you slow it down to mid-range, it will kill free-floating algae as well. And if its run closer to the slow-end, it will also kill parasites.

So how effective it is, and what your goal for it is, depends on how finely you tune the flow of water through it. Most people put the UV unit on the outflow of the sump right before pumping it back to the main display, however that might restrict how slow you can get the flow to go through it. Slowing it down means slowing the overall flow rate of water through your entire sump as well. I think you can also put it in a loop-back fashion, if you split the outflow of your sump between going back to the main display and back to the inlet/skimmer chamber (through the UV unit if you like). In that case, you can easily get a slow flow through the UV, just be sure that you still have sufficient flow through the main display as well after the split!

Some people claim that a UV unit will also kill/sterilize useful things as well like copepods and such, but I don't know enough to be able to confirm/deny how much of an impact this really has. Basically, as far as I can tell, it's still an open debate regarding how useful a UV unit is. If you can better use the extra money to buy a better skimmer or upgrade another piece of equipment, I might lean more towards urging you to do that, but that's just an opinion, and I'm far from the most knowledgeable person on this forum :).

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Last edited by conger; 11-20-2008 at 12:19 AM.
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post #16 of 50 Old 11-20-2008, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
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yeah might pass on the UV initially.

i see alot of ppl have no hood on the top of their tank just lights hanging over the water surface, is this preferred? i was planning on using a hood to cover the lights as i want the light to focus in the tank not outside (its in my living room where i have my tv which will distract),

also ive seen ppl not using lids, is this preferred also? i was going to use lids to reduce water evaporation.
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post #17 of 50 Old 11-20-2008, 01:37 AM
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a hood would be fine.

i suggest no lid. it will help to hold in heat in the tank, get covered in salt creep fast, block out some light and so on. if you have fish that "jump" you can make a DIY netting screen to cover the top. this will keep fish from carpet surfing and at the same time still let light it. regardless your going to have evaporation, so have a supply of RO water on hand. i have to top off my water daily, but im planning on getting an auto-top off for it as soon as i find someone selling one used in my reef club
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post #18 of 50 Old 11-20-2008, 01:52 AM
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Good call on the no UV as they are kinda an over kill for the most part, unless you have a bigger tank like in the 150+ range, or you're kinda on the lazy side (keep up with the maintanence).

Onefish is right. i have a hood/canopy and i wish i didn't cause it keeps the heat in and raising my temp. use fans to blow accross the surface of the water and it'll cool the tank off quite a bit.

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post #19 of 50 Old 11-20-2008, 05:50 AM Thread Starter
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thanks heaps for the tips guys, now im just trying to get my head around lighting for the tank and the refugium and ill be underway.

also where in the sump does the protein skimmer sit?

ive noticed that most reefs dont have many fish, i was hoping to keep fish in the tank also...its a 115G tank, with a 30G refugium...after clowns, blue tangs, chromis, goby, flame angel, royal gramma. any issues with these ones?
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post #20 of 50 Old 11-20-2008, 02:49 PM
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The skimmer should sit in the first chamber, or right at the inlet of the sump. Assuming your sump will have three chambers, the first should be the inlet/skimmer, the second should be the refugium, and the third/last should be the return pump only. Some people (e.g. myself) split the overflow from the main display to go into a skimmer chamber and a refugium separately (with the skimmer and refug on opposite ends of the sump), and have them both flow into the return chamber which is in the middle of the sump. That allows you to tune how much water goes into the refugium (instead of forcing it all to flow through), so you can have a nice slow flow for the refugium and let most of the water go through the skimmer chamber.

I personally keep my heater in my skimmer chamber (and not in the main display) to keep it out of view.

"To an optimist, the glass is half-full;
to a pessimist, the glass is half-empty;
to an engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"
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