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powerheads and flow

This is a discussion on powerheads and flow within the Saltwater Aquarium Equipment forums, part of the Beginner Saltwater Aquariums category; --> hi there... i also have a wet/dry filter with a built-in protein skimmer, that was my first filter. I removed the bioballs little by ...

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Old 04-09-2008, 08:27 AM   #11
hi there...
i also have a wet/dry filter with a built-in protein skimmer, that was my first filter. I removed the bioballs little by little and added live rock in there. then i bought the canister.
like you said, i still need more filtration and circulation in there.
ill research the purapad. can i use this in the canister or in the wet/dry?
i have a bag of purigen in the wet/dry.
what do you think is better? a extra protein skimmer:
or the denitrificator?
i've read about people using this product and they say it works: http://www.midwestaquatic.com/PRODUC...enitrifier.htm
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:58 PM   #12
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Purigen is a great product, but it doesn't remove nitrates. Purigen is designed to remove organics, but nitrates isn't on that list.

PuraPad, Pura Complete, or the nitrate remover made by that same company... (These are all produced by Magnavore Company) Any of those products will help to control nitrate levels without upsetting any balance in the tank. They don't hurt biological filtration or pull too much of the needed minerals from the tank as some other medias can if used long term.

You can add them to the canister, the wet/dry, or both. If it were mine I would probably add it to the canister, watch the water params over a 2 wks period. If you don't see much change, put it in the wet/dry and remove it from the canister. Again watch your water params. You may need to add it to both canister and wet/dry in order to get enough effect to help, but the only way to know is to try it one at a time first. This will also help to show you how effective each of those filters is on your tank.

I wouldn't see any reason for an extra skimmer. A skimmer will only be able to remove specific forms of organics, and adding another one won't help the nitrate level you're dealing with now.

The sulfer denitrifier would be a practical option, as would be to increase your weekly water changes from 10% to 20%.

Please remember that there is no real replacement for those water changes, and removing waste isn't the only reason they're important. Water changes will also help to add important minerals to the water, things that are depleted as the fish and your environment use them up.

What is your calcium level reading? pH? With a high nitrate level you will need to closely monitor your pH level. As nitrate builds up for a period of time it can drop the pH, and it can be quite a drastic drop. Here again, only water changes are going to help to correct this.
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:14 PM   #13
ok. ill try the purapad.
the ph is around 8.2 - 8.0, but it tends to drop every week, 7.8 - 8.0
once i do the water change the next day it goes back to 8.0 - 8.2.
thanks again.
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:44 PM   #14
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That tells me that the nitrate level is getting to a point of being severe, and must be dealt with asap for the sake of saving your fish. pH that changes every week, even at such a slight drop/increase, is very stressful to the fish, and will serve only in making them sick if it continues. The increased circulation and addition of the filter media (pura pad) should help to drop the nitrate levels quickly, and this should also help to keep it stable. PuraPad should be considered part of your standard and regular filter media from this point on to avoid this same problem from happening again in the future.

Calcium level?
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:41 AM   #15
haven't check that...
i should be getting the powerhead today and i order the purapad. thanks for the info on that, very good reviews.
you are killing me betta!!! i've been reading a lot and not getting enough sleep
For some people the setup works, for others dont. i've seen websites that sell tanks like that too, those have the other end round.
i saw tanks that hung from the ceiling!!! jajaja... that is crazy and i dont think it works...
if this thing doesn't work ill start again with a reef ready but i still want to see 3 sides of it and the minimum equipment in the DP.
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Old 04-11-2008, 12:00 PM   #16
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Checking your calcium level is just as important as ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH. Calcium levels that are too low or too high will cause a lot of problems, and will affect other water params if not dealt with. You should always know calcium levels. Without the proper balance of calcium the animals can't grow properly, their organs don't function properly.

I would strongly suggest getting a calcium test kit and finding out where your calcium level is at now, and then would also suggest testing it at least once/month when it is regulated. Calcium, like other levels in the tank, will fluctuate over time. Some things will use up calcium, other things will leech calcium into the water as they break down. I have as of yet to see a marine tank that doesn't need some kind of adjustment to calcium level over a period of time... and I've seen the disasters that can and will hit when it's not properly monitored.

As for the examples you mentioned, like the hanging tank... just because someone does it doesn't make it right. People beat their dogs to train them, is that right? It still happens... and depending on who you talk to, some will tell you that its perfectly fine to do so. Puppy mills keep large dogs in small wire cages their entire lives, simply left to reproduce until they can't anymore, or die... is that right? People do it, and if you talk to the people who run those places, they'll tell you there is nothing wrong with it.

You and I both know better...
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