Maybe I missed something - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-09-2009, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe I missed something

Ok you put you`r new sump in, you put two holes in the siphon to stop flow in case of poweroutage then one day the power goes out the siphon gets broken and you are successful at avoiding a flood. Now the scenario is that this happens when you are at work and the power comes back on when you`r still at work. My question is being that the overflow has to be started by you and the return does not and you have a 20g sump on a 75g tank that is full, how do you avoid 20 gallons of water flowing into the display and flooding you`r living room?

Thanks in advance

-75g tank
-Workin on a sump & Stand
-130lb LR
-40lb LS soon to be 120lbs
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-09-2009, 03:13 PM
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depending on the type of overflow you are using it will prevent this. every one is different. u-tube style overflows have both ends in water at all times so it is self starting granted air doesnt build up inside the "U"

enclosed overflows will have a port to hook up a aqualifter pump. its almost like an bubbler pump but one hole sucks and the other pumps it so it constantly is sucking the air out from inside the box constantly giving you a siphon (unless the water gets low for a siphon break but then once it raises up it re-starts itself)

internal overflows basically just overflow whent he water is at that level down to the sump.

what you may need the siphon break hole for is the return line in your tank. keep in mind in a power outage water will return back down this plumbing until it hits air (either through the mouth of the plumbing or the siphon hole) if your using locline for your return you can have it up close to the surface where it will create a siphon break for you only loosing about an inch or so off the surface. your also going to want to consider some water getting returned to the sump that is in your plumbing so keep in mind extra room for that. after you get your setup all done and hooked up create mock power failures by shutting down the power to your pumps. just be prepared prior, just incase.
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post #3 of 9 Old 03-09-2009, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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If i simulate the powerfailure and its starting to look bad just turning the return on will cure the problem so that I don`t have a flood right then and there?

So it would be best to get an overflow with the aqualifter pump so that when there is a power failure the whole system will start? I believe that is a CPR unit? I`m gonna go check it out.. Thanks for the info

-75g tank
-Workin on a sump & Stand
-130lb LR
-40lb LS soon to be 120lbs
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-09-2009, 09:29 PM
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you want to set it up safe to where when you test you shouldnt have an issue with water flooding. figure you will need about 5-10 gallons (atleast) of EXTRA space in the sump to take on the water that drains back down until it hits a siphon break AND the water in the plumbing.
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post #5 of 9 Old 03-09-2009, 10:41 PM
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For the record, the siphon break is in the return line, not the drain. In the event of a power outage, your u tube, if using an external overflow, will remain full. When the power returns, the flow will return to the tank via the return, and the drain line will pick up where it left off. If you are using a reef ready tank, there is no issues with the drain line syphon break as it's self priming.

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The Haunting Grounds - SKAustin's Reef Diary - Part 2 (the 75g upgrade)
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-10-2009, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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I am not sure what i`m going to do I think I may try my hand at making a custom sump out of acrilic because I really don`t want to have the sump sitting next to my tank in the living room. I need the sump to be more square than anything because my stand is not the usual stand in which when you open the left side thats all you have access to, because the middle is divided from the left and right. `m just not exactly sure how to figure out if I can make a 20g square as 20g should be big enough. I`d like to just use a 20g tank but can`t slide it out the back because the exit to the rear is only 8.5 inches wide. Now i`d assume that if I sured it up that it should be ok to cut enough space to put the sump out the back??

-75g tank
-Workin on a sump & Stand
-130lb LR
-40lb LS soon to be 120lbs
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-10-2009, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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I just went to one of the aquarium calculators and if I make a box thats 18x18x18 I will actually end up with a sump thats 25g. More is better, seems like it may be to my benefit to make my own sump from scratch.

-75g tank
-Workin on a sump & Stand
-130lb LR
-40lb LS soon to be 120lbs
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-10-2009, 10:10 PM
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if you are somewhat handy i strongly suggest making your own. a used tank, a few peices of plexi and some aquarium safe silicone and you have a sump for a fraction of the price of a store bought model. this also allows you to make the sump to fit your needs instead of having to work around whats already infront of you.
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-11-2009, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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I checked on the price of Acrylic and it will be cheaper to get a new/used aquarium. I`d like to go 29g but just don`t have the room so I will do 20g. I hope that will be sufficient enough. I`m not the handy type but under my fathers supervision I will be ok LOL does`nt appear to be very difficult. One thing do I simulate the siphon powerfailure deal with an empty tank to figure how high to make the baffles and the amount of water I can add.

-75g tank
-Workin on a sump & Stand
-130lb LR
-40lb LS soon to be 120lbs
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